saddle lipo chassis

[YoungChazz]

Ttboyy, we tried it and it moves weight too far forward. We built a stick pack chassis and it was slower, pure and simple.

Also, if you are going to use a "standard" servo mounting system, the only way to do it is with with a very low profile servo, which would require our customers to buy a very expensive component.

[ttboyy2k]

Don't let team shumacher hear that the stick pack setup is slower Chazz, they will change their setups to saddle pack too and then x-factory will lose their edge.

[mof]

Originally Posted by ttboyy2k

Don't let team shumacher hear that the stick pack setup is slower Chazz, they will change their setups to saddle pack too and then x-factory will lose their edge.

Cougar SV can run saddle packs side by side as well as stick pack.

[super__dan]

I ran my Saddle pack chassis today at Bury regional and it was ACE. I tried it back to back at the start of the day and was quicker and generally better settled on the high grip sections.

I was able to remove the anti roll bar and the balance was similair over all but felt safer on the high grip sections especially where they were a little bumpy.

[MHeadling]

I'm quite interested to try this chassis on my 4 gear non sq X6

It has the DMS carbon X6 batt brace fitted btw.

Will I just need the chassis and those brass inserts for the rear hinge pins?

Will my batt strap work with sq chassis?

[Darren Boyle]

Originally Posted by Mark Headling

I'm quite interested to try this chassis on my 4 gear non sq X6

It has the DMS carbon X6 batt brace fitted btw.

Will I just need the chassis and those brass inserts for the rear hinge pins?

Will my batt strap work with sq chassis?

Mark, you will need the Sq battery strap too, there are some specialist saddle ones coming out too soon I believe from a couple of suppliers....

[N7ELA]

Originally Posted by super__dan

I ran my Saddle pack chassis today at Bury regional and it was ACE. I tried it back to back at the start of the day and was quicker and generally better settled on the high grip sections.

I was able to remove the anti roll bar and the balance was similair over all but felt safer on the high grip sections especially where they were a little bumpy.

How did you weight the car Dan? Did you still try and balance it out 65 - 35 or did you just run new chassis with no weights???

[super__dan]

I ran it with exactly the same weight I normally run on any kind of medium/high grip dry track (40g under the speedo and 60g under ther servo) except I added two peices of lead on the centre 2 cells slots under where the stick would go. This is because my saddles are about 40g lighter than my stick pack so it balances it out for direct comparisons.

At Oswestry national I ran the saddle packs in rounds 1 and 2 when grip was high, then becasue I like safety over an 'entertaining' drive I went back to stick (with no other changes) for 3, 4 and the final becasue the traction zones coming out of corners had started to break up. On reflection I wish I'd left it until after round 3 as there was enough grip still in that round but cest la vie. I made no changes setup wise when changing cells including still leaving off the anti roll bar.

The saddles are not a MASSIVE difference in some respects it's not like driving a totally different car. But when the grip is high it just feels better I think.

Ellis ran saddles all day though, he might see this and comment.

[super__dan]

Oh just to add, the usefullness of 'having' to add lead is how you can adapt it to the conditions. At the oOple race it rained for leg 3, I took out the lead from under the servo and added the saddles 2*18g worth of weight at the back, to shift the balance backwards. This gave me a lot more drive in the wet and the car was really good (3rd in last leg of the A). Takes about 2 minutes to change this weight balance so can be done right before a run if it starts raining

[elvo]

Originally Posted by super__dan

... then becasue I like safety over an 'entertaining' drive I...

TFB 4ever!

[janus_77]

I heard of some issues with chassis breaking, so I made some bracing. If you want to keep some extra flex you still can mount them with o-rings mounted between the brace and the chassis.

Not hard to make, and there removable if you want to switch to stickpacks.

[dreamworld]

way to go arjan

[mark christopher]

i mainly run at worksop indoors or indorr regionals, so would you say this chassis is needed?

[janus_77]

Originally Posted by mark christopher

i mainly run at worksop indoors or indorr regionals, so would you say this chassis is needed?

You have the word "Dremel" in your signature, so you NEED to cut up a chassis... whether it works or not

[fastinfastout]

Hi, I understand that the saddle pack puts more weight over the front. The question is, exactly what percentage are we talking about? 0.3-0.5% towards the front?

[janus_77]

Originally Posted by fastinfastout

Hi, I understand that the saddle pack puts more weight over the front. The question is, exactly what percentage are we talking about? 0.3-0.5% towards the front?

That really isn't why its done. Some saddle packs are a bit heavier, some a bit lighter than the normal ones. And we've always been able to balance the car with some added weight.

The thing that makes this better to drive is the fact that there is less weight close to the outer edge of the chassis. So now the mass is more central, and therefore the car is more predicable.

Until now I’ve been using budget 25c - 4000mAh packs just because they were light and it really didn't affect handling of the car much even when using sticks. But if I changed to a heavier 5300 LRP battery the car was a lot harder to drive.

The weight bias was 32/68 with no added weights. I placed 30 grams under the esc and 20 behind the servo. Now its back to 35/65 as it should be.

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by janus_77

You have the word "Dremel" in your signature, so you NEED to cut up a chassis... whether it works or not

i also have asscess to a milling machine
not if it makes it weaker and not required for low traction surfaces

any one able to answer my question?

[elvo]

You don't absolutely need it. On low grip tracks, the differences in lap times are small, and it's more of a touchy-feely thing.

The saddle pack chassis is an advantage if one runs heavy lipos( think LRP and the like) on high grip tracks.

[super__dan]

Originally Posted by mark christopher

i mainly run at worksop indoors or indorr regionals, so would you say this chassis is needed?

Don't know for sure but I don't know why not, usually I get on power understeer at Worksop and I can only think the saddle chassis will improve this.

We'll find out in a few months.

[YoungChazz]

I'll try to put Elvo's and Dan's posts in different words. The # 1009 saddle pack chassis is a tuning option, much like the # 1005 graphite and # 1006 plastic.

Depends entirely on your track and the batteries you have.

A good 3800 or 4000 40C or more stick pack will fit well in the car (height) and have all the run time and punch anybody needs in buggy. Once you get over 4000 the pack is heavier so weight to the outside can become an issue. Sometimes a bit more chassis lean is actually good, and often a sway bar is the answer.

X Factory is purely a racing company. We assume nobody has ever run one of our cars in his back yard. We know the Family is a group of guys who love their cars, that building them is half the fun, and so far it's been easy for us to resist China and the RTR thing. Because we are a racing company we want you to have every option to go as fast as humanly possible, so we give you as many options as possible.

Saddle chassis is another option. For some drivers on some tracks, saddle is the way to fly. For others it's stick graphite, and for still others it's stick plastic. You get choice, not chance, with X Factory.

B.T.W. the # 1009 saddle chassis will still accept stick. Same CF hold-down with same chassis posts for both.