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  #21  
Old 17-03-2010
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B44&501xRacerEX B44&501xRacerEX is offline
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Originally Posted by TRF_AK View Post
Which pistons do you guys typically use? And what about sway bars?
The same pistons in the box are fine. Swaybars, I run front and rear swaybars.
I have not ran the car without them or its more of a preference thing.
The car performs well with the full set in place.
I love the trf shocks they practically never leak and if they do you need
new o-rings.
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  #22  
Old 17-03-2010
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Originally Posted by TRF_AK View Post
Which pistons do you guys typically use? And what about sway bars?
For pistons, I followed the 501X manual. I don't use sway bars personally, my box stock setup works well enough. My damper spring tension is not normal but it works for me on the local hard packed clay surface as it handles the jumps superbly. Currently using 40wt fr and 30wt rear AE silicone oil....
Here is a pic of my damper spring setup:
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  #23  
Old 18-03-2010
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B44&501xRacerEX B44&501xRacerEX is offline
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Well I was thinking about ditching the swaybars on my car...
dont really need them do I? Maybe on the rear end and that's it?
I'll also make note of your damper spring rate. all the way to the top on the rear.
I guess 3mm on the front..?
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  #24  
Old 18-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX View Post
Well I was thinking about ditching the swaybars on my car...
dont really need them do I? Maybe on the rear end and that's it?
I'll also make note of your damper spring rate. all the way to the top on the rear.
I guess 3mm on the front..?
Just make sure your ride height is at arms level front and rear. Thats where I have it and its perfect there...also I only have the rear sway on to get the rear to slide out a bit more but in the front its not needed as it may take away some grip from the front wheels. Unless the track is ultra smooth with big sweeping turns then you dont need the front...but if its a high speed track then I think the front sway would be needed.

again..The shock body threading adjusts your ride height. Just unscrew till your arms are level with the ground. thats all you really need. Some people go even lower but I find this height is perfect and my buggy jumps like a mofo like this.
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  #25  
Old 18-03-2010
Migs Migs is offline
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Yeah i never run sway bars, it takes away some of the ability of one wheel to deal with a bump independantly, by transfering some of that energy to the other wheel, on the tracks here, where theres usually some bumps, i'd rather have good bump control and have the thing stay on its wheels rather than gain 0.3 of a second around the one flat sweeper
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  #26  
Old 18-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX View Post
Well I was thinking about ditching the swaybars on my car...
dont really need them do I? Maybe on the rear end and that's it?
I'll also make note of your damper spring rate. all the way to the top on the rear.
I guess 3mm on the front..?
close to 8mm actually in front, and all the way up in the rear. It looks strange but it works for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyV2382 View Post
Just make sure your ride height is at arms level front and rear. Thats where I have it and its perfect there...also I only have the rear sway on to get the rear to slide out a bit more but in the front its not needed as it may take away some grip from the front wheels. Unless the track is ultra smooth with big sweeping turns then you dont need the front...but if its a high speed track then I think the front sway would be needed.

again..The shock body threading adjusts your ride height. Just unscrew till your arms are level with the ground. thats all you really need. Some people go even lower but I find this height is perfect and my buggy jumps like a mofo like this.
My ride height is actually set by the CVD level. Both front and rear CVD shafts are parallel with the ground. My front arms sit slightly lower. Funny how we all have different setups, and the 501X/DB01 still performs great
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  #27  
Old 19-03-2010
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Using lipos, do I have to add weight to the back of the car and if so how much?
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  #28  
Old 19-03-2010
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Originally Posted by TonyV2382 View Post
Using lipos, do I have to add weight to the back of the car and if so how much?
I have not added weight, I slightly adjusted the suspension (rear dampers).
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  #29  
Old 20-03-2010
mof mof is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5POINTSTAR View Post
I have not added weight, I slightly adjusted the suspension (rear dampers).
I have around 50g currently, but it all depends on the weight of the lipos too...
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  #30  
Old 05-08-2010
kydawg1 kydawg1 is offline
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Yes an older thread, but wanted to ask the 501X guys.....(I asked similar question about the 511X....so probably the same racers).

If I were starting out with a box stock 501X WCE.....what are the robustness upgrades needed before I build her up?

What problems are signature with the 501X WCE and need to be addressed?

Thanks in advance for any information.

-Kydawg1
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  #31  
Old 05-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kydawg1 View Post
Yes an older thread, but wanted to ask the 501X guys.....(I asked similar question about the 511X....so probably the same racers).

If I were starting out with a box stock 501X WCE.....what are the robustness upgrades needed before I build her up?

What problems are signature with the 501X WCE and need to be addressed?

Thanks in advance for any information.

-Kydawg1
Pretty much the same as 511. And a lipo tray (at least Fredrik Emilsson makes them for 501X) Which basically means ball cups and ball studs. And depending on the tracks you drive at, you might wanna consider Fredriks rear diff cover.
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