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#21
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You cant really go too wrong building a smooth diff. You can wet dry the plates just helps reduce diff slip and flattens the plates (gets rid of high spots) but personally i dont bother with I trust xray have pressed them well for my touring car diffs
![]() People swear by schumacher diff lube and associated black grease and is what i tend to use. The main thing to made it smooth clean and keep everything flush and renew parts regularly. I tend to use carbide balls aswell theyre a bit harder and last longer than my kit xray ones. You can also use a shock foam inside the outdrive which does help keep dirt out of the thrust lengthens the time of rebuilding the diff again. I did use a tutorial from radio race car magazine where they did a step by step guide to building a diff was really handy. Think it went as far as having a slave motor attached to bed it in ![]()
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我听见 我忘记; 我看见 我记住; 我做 我了解 Chinese proverb: ''I hear and I forget; I see and I remember; I do and I understand'' Ken Block for the WRC title 2010 ![]() |
#22
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I never rebuild mine
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Captain Shambles ![]() Theres nothing cables ties and tape can't fix!
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#23
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you dont need to coz you dont get round the first corner before you rip the front arms off
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#24
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Oi! I finished all 4 rounds on friday (just!)
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Captain Shambles ![]() Theres nothing cables ties and tape can't fix!
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#25
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i know
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#26
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TRF Racing UK will have a complete how to guide soon....... ;-)
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Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! ![]() |
#27
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Diff plates are ground... You'll never get them "flatter" with wet n dry, all you'll do is make them worse. |
#28
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I clean everything off as well as i can, use a tiny amount of cear (i prefer associated) grease on the outdrive, put the ring onto it, and clean off any excess, then put a tiny smear on both rings, nothing on the balls or the gear. thrust race i use black (again associated) and plenty of it.
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