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#21
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I would have thought you droop screws would do that.
I couldn't understand why people was doing this when you have droop screws. Like the other kits that don't have the droop screws you would need to put a shim in to restrict the droop. |
#22
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__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#23
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aye
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#24
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So I understand the spacer is placed purely for droop reasons. Thanks for the help guys.
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#25
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#26
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shock oil and piston are all relative to what springs lb you are using for example heavy oil small piston would need a stiffer spring lighter oil big pistons would need a lighter spring and dont forget the point from the lower arm and shock tower this will also effect how springingy or dead the shocks feel.
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#27
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I'm new to the setup side of things so its kinda confusing.
My rear is drilled to 1.4 and I have 30wt with silver springs. Outside on shock tower and middle on arm. What should I do to settle the rear end down and gain traction???? Thanks ![]() |
#28
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uk drivers seem to be using light green or light blue rear springs, sure silver are harder which would make it bounce
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#29
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Is this chart not right? http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ringChart.html |
#30
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You need to give us more info about the 'bouncing'.
It could be kicking up because it's too hard - unlikely with the set-up you have. Or... It could be hitting the floor and bouncing back up because of that - more likely with your set-up imho. You can check the above by getting a friend to watch it closely along a section of track and also put some tape on the back of the chassis as an indicator to it hitting the floor. Did you say it feels 'really stiff'? ![]() ![]() G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#31
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Once the rain stops I will get to the track and have someone watch. I'll keep you posted |
#32
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OK, I understand now, let us know.
Try the tape thing too ![]() G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#33
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i was going on memory of chart knew grey was soft as you said silver figured they were higher up., as northy my guess is ur grounding out on the track, like a pogo stick, should not feel hard tho?
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#34
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i ran my durango on a very ruff track, i had some problems with the rear of the car, it was bouncing like crazy.
setup, 3 hole piston light blue or the grey spring and 25 oil the piston is not drilled out. the front was okey 2 hole piston black spring 30 oil. |
#35
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Did you put the rear balast ?
I had this problem of rear bouncing with the box setup. It was much better when I had put light green spring, 3 hole pistons (not drilled),25 AE oil and the rear balast. On lap time the car was the fastest (when the best pilot of the race tried it ! ![]() |
#36
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i made a bit of an arse bleeding the shocks the first time and the car behaved like you've explained.
Turns out there was way too much rebound in the shocks as if they were pressurised. I followed Mr Skeldings tips on shock building on another thread and things were way better after that. I was using heavier springs on the back though (light green with d.blue up front) |
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