TRF501X Tips

[Patpop01]

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions.

[AaronR]

Originally Posted by Patpop01

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions.

HPI 75115 4.3mm ball studs and Losi LOSA6015 ball cups work well together!

[Patpop01]

I must thank you guys once more...

Had the car out on the track today, and boy, does it flies .

I had a problem with the diff once more after a 2 minute run, seemed the lock nut had been broken. Heard from someone that putting an extra 2mm, no-lock nut in first and then the lock nut, would greatly enhance the stability of the diff (no need to worry anymore about damaging the lock nut), since the force is now distributed over two nut instead of one. So I rebuild my diff using this methode and I must say, you can really thight it down now. (locking it fully and turning back a 1/4 of a turn)

Next I found out that I had set the slipper to tight. After loosing it up, the fun began . This is the first time I really felt what the car is able to, and I must say I love it .

I do hope that people stuggling with the same probs I had, can get some usefull info in this theard, thanks to the help from all you guys.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I'll be ordering these parts soon for my worlds edition car.
I dunno why these say Db01 whenever they are the 511 parts
#53970 Dust Protector
#54140 DB01 Reienforced Drive Belt
#54141 DB01 Front Lower Arms
#54142 DB01 Rear Lower Arms
#9949350 RC 2x25mm capscrew
#9464083 Screw bag D
#9804310 2.6x5mm screw

Stupid that you have to buy the entire screw bag for the diff nuts.
Because the old number in the manual doesnt exist anymore.

[WHITTLER555]

Originally Posted by Patpop01

Today my new thrust bearings arrived, so I will be rebuilding my car this afternoon. I will take all of your advices in account and will let you guys know how everything runs, hopefully this evening if the weather is any good.

Interresting question WHITTLER555. The guy at my local hobby shop said you should have them thightened until they are able to move about 5mm either way (up/down). Does this seem ok to you guys ?

One more question.. I have the titanium ball studs from 3Racing on my car with a ball diameter of 4.75mm. Does anyone else uses them and if so, which ball cups do you use with them ? Or do you guys know of any good ball cups with a diametre of 4.8 ?

Thanks once more for all you replies... you really helped me out whit some of my questions.

I run the front belt so loose ou can push it down and with your finger on it it is below the top motor screw. I have just checked and you can twist both belts 270 degrees. However they do not slip under acceleration, I also run a one way diff in the front.

Hope it helps.

[bender]

B-Mag, the reason why many of these parts say for the DB01 is because they were released as hop-ups for that car.

Also, you don't need to order a whole bag to get the 2mm locknuts - Tower in the US have a couple of different ones (including Tamiya):

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWME8&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGKE8&P=7

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Thanks bender, I looked at your website and I'm very impressed with it.
I wonder if the 511 top decks will fit my car also, maybe not?

[Fredrik Emilsson]

I do not think that the 511 top decks fit the 501X. 511 has new bulkheads.

Take a look at this:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...87535&id=13377

By the way, I ran my 511 on a bumpy 1:8 track with a lot of big jumps. I think the new suspension arms (high traction ones) can take a lot of abuse. I was impressed.

[Patpop01]

Hi B44&TRF501xRacerEx,

Just found out they also sell the diff screws and nuts together as a whole. You get two nuts and two screws per bag. Tamiya number : AO-5014.

Take a look at this site for a uk distributor.
http://www.davesrcmodels.co.uk/shop/...26aid%3D115%26

I ordered mine from racingfactory in finland (www.racingfactory.fi).

Hope this helps....