Need help !!!

[timmy121]

i did read the post above but can't see how a servo be can slower when stood up then to been layed down!
or was he just saying all low profiled servo's are slow

[ANGEL.ONE]

apprently digital servos use more battery than analog?

[burgie]

i have a futaba 9550 low profile servo in mine, and whilst it isn't as fast as my KO servos it's not slow!

I also have the servo arm facing into the car for steering, to avoid hitting the bodyshell...

[Bungleaio]

I've got a futaba 9551 in mine and it works fine, plenty of speed and torque. Its also clear of the bodyshell.

Even if digital servos use more power than analogue ones I shouldn't worry batteries have so much energy in them it doesn't make any difference.

[Cooper]

I had a (s)low profile in my 2wd and it sucked... was fine in the 4wd though.

[Panic]

Originally Posted by Lowie

well, it would be clear to you if you would have read higher posts ... but it's all about the stickpack-mod.
The stickpack comes at the right side of the car,thus the need to reposition the receiver and servo on the left side.
There they are positioned more to the front of the car, where the bodyshell is lower. ... and thus the servohorn just slightly touches the bodyshell.

I would have gone for this solution myself.
A laydown servo can easely be mounted with the standard servo-mounts, just by drilling two new holes through the chassis. The ESC then can be mounted on top of the servo.

Also, as the reciver is now also in the front , there actually is an antenna-mount-position allready in the front of the car which was not used with the saddlepack-battery. Must have been an heritage from the old-style-preds.

But since I have a low-profile servo, there isn't much room on that servo to mount the ESC. So and receiver are velcro-taped on to the chassis. The standing up servo actually gives the easiest fitting fo all components.

Actually i m thinking to go to lay down servo as well ,
Servo + receiver parallel (ko low profile + spectrum sr3100 fit nicely) and as close as possible to the motor and my speedo (mamba) upfront. I think i have seen this layout somewhere in here in the past ( i think was niggs car or kevlee) and i believe it should be perfect.

[nikos2002]

Here are pictures of Kev's car from Jan. and March of this year. Apparently he has tried the stand up and lay down servo versions. I would think the laydown version would be better.

Maybe he can pitch in and off advantages and disadvantages of both.

[Panic]

Well here is my lipo stick conversion with the new orange steering parts/plastic chassis.....decided to go with lay down servo option as now there is plenty of space plus i have the alum servo blue posts spare so that i can make the short pushrod mode. Also need to figure out how to get rid of all this "spaghetti" wire i have created ....

[Lowie]

nice fit, Panic
but lucky for you, you had a low profile servo and a small footprint receiver
I guess it will always be difficult to install "normal size" electronics in a Pred.

Anyway: good job!

edit: dude, do not forget to mount the very important motor-screw that attaches the motor mount to the Rear small suspension plate, via the motor mount brace.
On your pictures it seems to be missing.

[Panic]

Originally Posted by Lowie

nice fit, Panic
but lucky for you, you had a low profile servo and a small footprint receiver
I guess it will always be difficult to install "normal size" electronics in a Pred.

Anyway: good job!

edit: dude, do not forget to mount the very important motor-screw that attaches the motor mount to the Rear small suspension plate, via the motor mount brace.
On your pictures it seems to be missing.

Ooops you are right. Forgot it....thanks .

[niggs98]

good spot ludo. that is the most imprtant screw in the whole car. evebn known as the jesus screw lol

[Lowie]

lol, "Jesus Screw", the best name "evah" for a part of a rc-car. I'll remember that one

@ Panic,
actually, (excuse me for mentioning this) I DO see a flaw in your layout. It is not possible for you to dismount the motor without dismounting the servo.
I won't be too easy either (if possible?!) to change a pinion this way.

[kwik]

could he take the whole motor mount out, then the motor? though its still alot of work.

im getting an x10 soon and i waswondering if a servo just bigger than a normal servo will fit? (longer, not wider)

thanks
chris

[Panic]

Originally Posted by kwik

could he take the whole motor mount out, then the motor? though its still alot of work.

Hi Chris, everything is a tight fit in a pred and all depends of the gear you have. You just have to play around with your esc/servo/rx and find the best configuration ...and no you are right i have to remove the motor mount if i want to take out the motor. ( but i rarely do it ) .

Originally Posted by kwik

im getting an x10 soon and i waswondering if a servo just bigger than a normal servo will fit? (longer, not wider)

What kind of servo is that ?

[Panic]

Originally Posted by Lowie

lol, "Jesus Screw", the best name "evah" for a part of a rc-car. I'll remember that one

@ Panic,
actually, (excuse me for mentioning this) I DO see a flaw in your layout. It is not possible for you to dismount the motor without dismounting the servo.
I won't be too easy either (if possible?!) to change a pinion this way.

Lowie - Yes you are right but this was the only way to mount the servo . One servo post was hanging on air ( was falling into the battery slot) so i decided to place it all the way back

But in general i dont touch the motor too often neither the pinion...so no harm for me.

[kwik]

Originally Posted by Panic

What kind of servo is that ?

a strange one, lol

ansman metle gear 6kg servo, nothing expensive and fancy, but its reasonable quick and metle geard.

speed: 0.15 sec
size: 40.5 x 20 x 41.2 mm
weight 43g

[Panic]

* UPDATE *

So today was another club race at the same track here in Vancouver CANADA.My first time though with the lipo stick conversion, new orange steering arms , plastic chassis , proline wing all the way forward with half gurney - ....and all i can say is WOW!!!!. Completely different car. More steering, more pivot into corners and jump was most of the times level.... i like it !!!

Ofcourse i once again had a bad start. I was practicing before the qualifiers and i broke the other crank pivot (and that was it - no other issues). I guess those new beefier pivots are NOT so beefy (and now i ended up using the old ones again). Need to find out how to make them stronger any ideas? Or any other solution?

[niggs98]

was the pivot that you broke a new solid one as if so it is the first that i have heard of breaking. if this is the case can you pm me with some pics please

[jeff jenkins]

to be honest i think the only way to get them stronger is to make them out of titanium.. but i dont think that is needed..

you might have had to much stress on it.. when you compress the front suspension down does the chassis touch the table surface? also is there any more up travel from this position?

[kwik]

couldnt you use softer springs? so it will touch down flat instead of having stress on only 4 points?

also if you make something too strong it will only put more stress on something else...so if you use titanium, all you do is transfer the stress. thats why people dont use aluminum...