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#21
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Thanks to DoughtyUK and Bender for ther technical knowledge... both your posts would suggest that my layout will have handling benefits.
Thanks again, Jon! |
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#22
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Thanks very much! Jon |
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#23
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a 'perfect' car depends on who is driving it and what they want it to do. car design is about compromises, figure out the things that are important to you and make the compromises on the bits that you don't really care about
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
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#24
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When i made my mid motor B4... I ran a similar battery lay out, It, IMO, handled really well!
Modification is the future! I like it alot At Chris Doughty... What do you think a slimb4 would be like with a carbon fibre tub chassis?? (sorry for highjacking the thread!)
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
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#25
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#26
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lol
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#27
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We encourage the Family to experiment with our cars. In fact, we are flattered when anyone chooses an X Car to modify or make new parts for.
The X - 5 actually has a small handling advantage over the xx-4 (and, of course a big handling advantage over the xxx-4) because the X - 5's weight is concentrated longitudinally, which means, as Chris has said, the weight must spread out laterally. We liked the X - 5 so well that we followed that concept with the X - 6. The balance of the original X - 6 with 4+2 cells is just about perfect, and we have done a lot of work with weight and set-up to get the Squared to that place again. Any car now on the market simply must work with stick LiPo. With a mid-motor (The only thing that makes sense.) the stick can not run longitudinally. Because LiPo is so light, with a lateral stick there is very little weight at the two extreme ends. When we put the ballast necessary to bring the car back up to minimum weight low and in the center of the car, making sure to replace weight in the 2-cell slots, it works out very well. Yes, the set-ups had to change some, but we've got the handling of the Squared now to where for some drivers it may be the slightest bit faster. The Boyz struggled a bit at first but set right to work and had a ton of fun figuring it out. It's quite satisfying having a challenge set in front of you, rising to it, and coming out on top. As usual, we've got lots of set-up info available and you always get all the latest poop. No secrets at X Factory. At some other comapnies the race team runs cars that are nothing like what you buy, with all sorts of trick parts that you will never see. Not here. Yes, the X Team does test things -- you don't want us selling you the failures -- but everything that works, as quickly as possible, is either sold as a part or included in the Kits. When you buy X Factory, you get the very latest stuph as raced by the Team. Our primary goal continues to be making cars that are easy and fun to drive fast for the average racer. Ellis can win with a brick, but I cannot. I've got to have a car that I can drive, and even then it's a comedy. But if your car has a big design advantage, you will do well in your race. So at X Factory we give you the design advantage so you, the average racer, can go out there and win. Beer tastes so much better when the big trophy is sitting there next to you. |
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#28
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#29
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Honesty is key afterall
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Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
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#30
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I have never driven an X6 so I don't know what suspension changes yield what results on the car, but my own experiences with other cars has been more in line with the "text book" to quote you. However, I have noticed that many rc racers subscribe to the theory of more body-roll = more grip, so you are probably in the majority with that thinking
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
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#31
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Is body roll cause or effect of "more grip"......
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
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#32
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very good point Mr.D, good analysis
move to the top of the class and have a gold star
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#33
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I do like threads like this
G (sad-o)
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
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#34
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More roll will often give you more grip.
But only in a sideways direction. - I.e it stops the car spinning out but loses you forward drive. Look up traction circle theory. With a diff as soon as you get enough weight transfer that the inside wheel starts spinning then the outer wheel is transmitting almost no torque so can produce a lot more sidebite. - (It doesn't matter that the inner wheel generates no side bite as most of the weight is on the other wheel.) If you don't get weight transfer then both wheels are equally loaded so you have maximum possible traction in a forward direction. - But because the tyre is generating forward traction you are losing side bite. Obviously this is an over simplification and there are other factors such as wheel angle etc. |
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#35
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Gotta admit I am a bit of simple-ton when it comes to technical mumbo jumbo which is why I'm over the moon my thread has turned out as it has because it gives me alot of knowledge that I didn't have before.
So my question is this: I have always been on the impression that longer camber links provide more body role - and as far as I can tell most people are suggesting that more body role gives you more side grip. If that is the case then why do almost all X6 drivers run the e-speed rear hangers to shorten the rear camber links??? I have the e-speed hangers on at the moment, and have had them on since I got the car, but if I took them off and went back to standard long camber link how different would the car handle??? thanks for your response in advance! Jon |
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#36
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Not an x6 driver, but, if you move the motor inboard you generate less sideways load on the rear tyres than with an outboard motor.
You therefore need to lose side bite or the car will understeer. Shorter top links give a higher roll centre and lose rear end grip so the car will rotate better. In general a shorter link also makes the cars less "square" to drive as there is more camber change. A long camber link can make a car a bit snatchy to drive, especially on flat profile tyres. |
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#37
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I'm liking this aswell, I know kind of understand why the espeed hangers work how they do.
They give the rear end more bite on turn in, making the car feel locked in when you chuck the car at a corner. In an off power tight corner they allow the car to rotate the more you slow down and then when you get back on the gas the traction is much improved. What warped has just said seems to sound just like what 'actually happens' |
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#38
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ah, I get it now... thanks
Jon |
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#39
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Hi mate,
Your chassis mod looks great but befor i consider doing anything like that, whats the chance of the rear end stepping out now that the weight has been move forward? i'm a newby to the x-6 and i am guessing it handles very diffrent to a losi xxxcr. if you could let me know, it would be most appreciated. cheers.
__________________
EAT, SLEEP & RACE. Keeping fast motors reving hard. signed...migsy racing made better by Losi, Team Xtreme, HPI BAJA 5B. novak, castle creations, trak-power lipos bantam B6 and my SMR nicely done by huski sport uk. www.the-pred.co.uk RC BEARINGS 4 U. Club 22 (admin) Losi22, losi xxx cr losi xx-4, losi xxx-4G baja 5b 30.5cc. |
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#40
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It certinaly will handle far different to a XXX-cr... To be honest I used to own a XXX-cr and found that a standard B4 handled and performed far better... the mid motor conversions from X factory and Atomic Carbon are a futher improvement on that.
Having the saddle pack lipo's rather than the stick lipo doesn't have a massive impact on the weight being further forward as the weight will only be fractionnally further forward... the benefit I saw was having more weight central. As Lipos (or at least the Trak Power ones I have) are lot lighter than the old NIMH cells you'll find that you have to put alot of weight back into the car using stick on weights or more commonly lead plate - and alot of people tend to be putting weight upfront anyway to improve front end grip. I'm currently running 10g right at the front ontop of the front bulk head, and with lead plate have 35g in each of the 2 central holes of the 4 battery slots, and 138g under the front of the saddle lipos and under the electrics tray: ![]() I may need to add alittle more weight as people are finding that 1740g is the ideal total weight but mine is alittle under that - saying that I ran the car properly for the first time with the Phat Bodies bodyshell at Ledbury last Sunday and got a good result: I ended up finishing 5th in the first round but would have got either 1st or 2nd if my Lipo cut off on the speedo hadn't cut in on the final corner before the loop at the end of the race (had it geared all wrong), and in the 2nd round finished 1st very comfortably! All is working well but testing is definately on ongoing thing. Thanks, Jon |
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