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#21
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![]() as much as i hate to agree with stan ............ he is right ![]()
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Nathan Ralls HPI, Custom Blitz, www.piraterc.com mr-o foams woop woop racing officialy keeping team toe out inline ![]() |
#22
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no i am.... you just don't know it...
![]() i still drive like a bitch though..... |
#23
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Not good - the up and down movement isnt due to swarfe or incorrect screws its the gearbox moulding.
I have added a second bearing instead of the alu pinion spacer and drill and tapped 3mm hole above the flanged bearing and put a short screw through the gearbox top to nip up the slack in it (niggs98 s idea) - second added bearing seems to fit without need to be nipped up. You need to be precise with the hole so the screw will pinch the bearing between the flanged bit and the pinion. Mine now has no play and very smooth. This makes meshing motor pinion and spur easier and must reduce wear on pinion/ crown gear and gearbox/chassis bearing mouldings. Just wacking some insulation tape in could have been easier tho.........! Ordered my pred 08 2 weeks ago - still waiting for a cancelled order refund and missing balls from big bore shock kit - please contact me teamXtreme I have sent you a few emails with no response SAM D |
#24
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The slack has been a std feature for many years i'm affraid - most people do fix it with a grub screw as you have.
The second bearing is also a good idea as you say, supports the spur better too. I also put a second bearing in the front ![]() G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#25
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![]() Quote:
lol,I was just about to say that! I did it in all my pre X10 cars, wasn't needed in the later ones, BUT some moulding are worse than others so in your case that small screw will just be fine. Nothing else to worry about.
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www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
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