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#21
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i take everything but the kitchen sink DCM
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#22
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Why don't you guys give it a chance before all the negativity? If you don't want one, don't buy one.
If cooling the can doesn't work, then why do people cool it with the much more dongle thing before a race? ![]() ![]() ![]() G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#23
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The muchmore item is suppose to be left on for a good 30mins at least, this will happily drop the core temp of the stack, windings, magents and can quite considerably, but then you haave to keep it cool during the race.
Maybe look at CPU tech and go for copper stacks, they are attached to a copper heatsink and funnel the warmth upwards...
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#24
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What about this?
http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...864&fullsize=1 Cant find much info on it, but some rekon it might be liquid cooled ![]() Wonder if it holds dry ice/Liquid nitrogen? Ross
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1/10 touring / GT12 / Tamiya Mini's |
#25
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It is liquid cooled, a similar idea to the original post, but implemented in a better manner, as it cools the can far better.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#26
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My friend has the much more coller, and if left on for long enough, ice builds on the motor, I shall be buying one of these
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Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#27
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Looking at the Team Brood item, it is clearly an air cooled heatsink. It's difficult to design heat sinks which do not damage the motor label or whos thermal conductivity is not spoiled by the label. As a result the makers claim 30F improvement.
TCS liquid cooling lowers motor temp 50F and forms a permanent installation into the car without obscuring the motor label or affecting normal motor installation Additionally air fans draw 1.3watts of power per fan, whereas a TCS only uses 0.4w. A TCS therfore gives considerably more cooling than anything else available for less power usage. More technical information available http://www.tcscooling.com/data.html Richard Weatherley Last edited by RWeatherley; 02-11-2006 at 11:49 AM. |
#29
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Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#30
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Well, worth a try isn't it, and I would be brutaly honest on the results....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#31
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smooth ![]()
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Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#32
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hey, you don't ask you don't get.... and Richard can only say yes or no..... heehee
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#33
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Steve, will you paint me a bodyshell for free?
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Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#34
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Steve steve, sponsor me sponsor me, please
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#35
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Pre-cooling devices
We have tested pre cooling devices (peltiers) and this is what we have found. This assumes that the motor is cooled long enough to get down to 0 degs Celcius, before a race ... It is usually about 2 minutes between removing the cooling device and placing the car on the track having fitted bodyshell and walked to the rostrum etc. Then ideally you must run about 1/2 a lap to check the car and trims and get the driver ready etc. (Please note that during the initial running the brushes suffer excess wear due to condensation on the comm) Approxiamtely another 1/2 minute has to be used waiting for the race start. During this time, a typically 2 or 3 minute total period and a short run, the motor is rising in temperature and at the start of the race will have risen to about 10 degs (assuming normal ambient temp of 20C) Due to the fact that there is a bigger temperature difference between the motor and surrounding air temperature, compared to a non pre-cooled motor, the motor's temperature rises more quickly. At around the 3 minute mark the motors temperature rises above that of a TCS cooled motor. By the end of the race the motor temperature will be 5 to 10 degs lower than a completely un cooled motor. Although about 10 degs hotter than a TCS cooled motor. Using TCS will lower your motors temperature between 15 and 30 degs Of course you could use a TCS, fans and a peltier in combination, but if you had to choose a single item for maximum performance the TCS does out perform all of the other devices. The TCS is also pleasing and effective to work with because you don't have to keep fitting and removing the device. Once TCS is installed it just gets on with its job. With a TCS installed the motor temperature is also much more constant and therefore a good setup is easier to achieve and the motor feels the same throughout the race, with no fading. Richard Weatherley TCS |
#36
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Let me test one, go on, please!!!
Paul, Ben, I never NEVER do freebies, but some do get some serious discount....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#37
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As this forum predominently caters for/is used by off road racers, has this been unit been tried in an offroader, does it fit, where would you mount the cooling rad or is it only targeting on road cars? Space does appear to be very limited in many offroaders these days!!
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#39
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in the pred they mounted the Rad on the outside of the shell/chassis at the front, opposite side to the servo link.
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#40
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hmmm, I dont think it takes lke 3mins from pit table to track, not at my club anyway, its more like 1 min from pit table to race beggining
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Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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