lazer id help

[Welshy40]

Unsure but should be on the manual. I use a silver threadlocked nut turned the wrong way around does the job perfectly.

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by timmy

Started stripping the cars back this evening, everything all seems in pretty good condition so far. Haven't started breaking down the rear transmissions yet, however, i did notice that while car 2 has the hex nut and grub screw ( as described above) on the end of the layshaft, car 1 only has a nyloc nut on the end of the shaft.
Has this been done for a reason? or have they just lost the hex nut and grub screw and bodged it with a nyloc nut?

Fairly standard modification, even did it on my own racing Lazers back in the day as it stays in place where the standard nut will fall off and disappear if it wasn't done up tightly or threadlocked, I got rid of the kit parts for better reliability. Considering how much power went through my touring car converted Lazer there is certainly no reliability concerns with a nyloc nut as mine went through about 6 years of racing every week without coming undone.

The standard grub screw in the nut setup is overcomplicated for what it is. The only advantage of the nut and screw is if you are running with the one way set up so it is free enough to allow the one way to work, but just tight enough to give some drag on the assembly so you get some front wheel braking. Good idea in theory but when you consider this drag to transfer some braking power to the front wheels has to be transferred between the alloy washer and the nut itself, and 1/4 of a turn is enough to go from loose to tight it's never going to happen in the real world. In reality as you are running with the one way either free or tight a normal nyloc nut does exactly the same job and is a lot simpler to adjust.

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Terry i disagree with the zx steering plate. A lot of guys have tried it and agreed. Having the steering plate you can raise it by washers or just add the blue steering which i forgot to mention and then no bump steer. With the zx steering ive got more steering in and out of the corners and found the zxr one lacked steering into the corner at speed especially on carpet and i was in the top ten in the country on carpet in the 90's.

As I said the forwards/backwards mounting holes between the ZX and ZX-R steering links have got nothing to do with bump steer, as you point out yourself by talking about using washers to adjust bump steer.

With the ZX plate you have smoother, more consistent steering through the corner and that is entirely due to the increased ackermann angle, not because to has no bump steer. The ZX-R one will give a harder, more responsive turn in but less steering coming out under power.
My own preference for my carpet Lazer was for my own steering link which has the mounting points even further forwards than the ZX-R link with the standard uprights, as the tracks I raced on were usually full of low speed hairpins. I needed quick direction changes but extra stability when accelerating hard out of them to suit my driving style. The ZX link can generate more steering but only when running with the Teamline uprights as their extra caster gives you greater camber change on the inside wheel to help it grip through the corner, but it isn't as responsive as the ZX-R one.

I'm sure I can also dig out a box load of trophies from race wins from the 90s as well, but I'd suggest a BTech Automotive Engineering degree and 34 years continuous r/c racing experience in every main electric class would suggest I do have an idea what I'm talking about.


Timmy, if the ZX-R link is as bad as James makes out Kyosho would not have continued to use the same steering geometry right through to the ZX-S Evo.

[Welshy40]

Zxs steering geomatry is pretty much identical to the zx using the blue parts and a slight design change to the plate but the holes are more zx than zxr. I did find i had bumpsteer with the R link hence why it got binned. I understand why it was designed as got the low down before it got released but i found wasnt as good on high grip with mini spikes,micro pins or mini spikes for me and yes i am a very agressive driver in and out of corners and tighter the better. It may be totally different with foams which for most of the places i went to wasnt allowed, but best option to do is try both, make your own mind up.

[timmy]

The cars coming back together nicely, all seems in very good condition. I stayed with the nyloc nut on the layshaft instead of the nut and grub screw for ease and also because if it worked for Terry, it'll do for me.
Still waiting on the bodyshell but the fibrelyte parts turned up saturday. Now, as i spent most of the nineties drinking instead of collecting trophies!! and as it seems like it will suit my driving style based on both your explanations, i'll use the ZX steering plate and teamline hubs to start with and see how i get on with it.
Another question sorry! Servo savers? Do you use them and if so which ones? Im using a savox servo for the steering so would i really need one?
Thanks again for the help

[terry.sc]

For servo savers I have always used Kimbrough in everything. Use a medium size Kimbrough, using one of the corner holes on the arm, with the servo saver mounted on the servo at an angle to keep the connection at the top. It will give you plenty of throw.

[Welshy40]

Yup same as Terry said Kimbrough. I prefer the middle holes on the Kimbro saver, I cut away the rest.

[butty1978]

Wow Lazer ZXR that brings back some fantastic memories for me off racing every weekend when I was a kid fantastic cars loved it hope you have fun with them fella