Which starter Buggy for Goshen

[Critch]

Dwales I am 99% sure I will be down on Sunday,
My only reservation is the engine mounting is not mid it has been pointed out that this is prefered and the kit to move it it 160 quid does this really matter?


Can I just say what a great and informative group,

[Si Coe]

Mid motor does make a massive difference, but truth be told when you are starting out not hitting the barriers is more important than where your motor is.
Yes, upgrading a B4.1 to mid motor is another £160 but the C4.1 is one of most successful mid motor buggys out there so whilst you can hold off the upgrade at first when you make it it will be worth it.

Or you could get the B4.1, run it for a while whilst you learn the ropes, then flog it on and get something else later. This is a good plan because whilst its not as quick as the mid motor cars on our high grip track, the B4.1 is a great car for beginners - tough, easy to setup and look after and nice and stable to drive.

[johnnygibbon]

Originally Posted by Si Coe

The cvd snapped part way along the shaft, so I doubt thats a workmanship issue more a faulty part. Having read the manual it is rather poor at describing how to build the car rear motor though you would hope to notice it was the wrong way round!
Others were a front upright and a rear wishbone and neither driver had spares (and nobody else had an H2 at all so that ended the day).

Its not statistically large enough as a sample to say either way but all I'm saying is that suggesting the H2 is more robust has little supporting evidence either.

and jonny nitros snapped a back drive axle on the shaft id stay well away

a 210 is the way mate yu will be fine and wont find better cheaper and spares are plentyfull

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Si Coe

Mid motor does make a massive difference, but truth be told when you are starting out not hitting the barriers is more important than where your motor is.

New drivers should be more concerned with learning to drive and not bouncing off most of everything, and less worried about how many hop-ups they have managed to bolt on their car.

Experienced drivers can benefit from the best of rigs and the latest advances, new drivers just prove they can knock down the walls with more expensive equipment as easily as they can less expensive equipment.

[Gavin Collingwood]

Steer clear of the 210 it's ball diff is awful and jonny and si have one so they're biased.

[johnnygibbon]

Nothing wrong with the ball diff when built properly and if ya don't like it try a gear diff. The options there
Personally I'd just get the rtr and start racing
And take it from there
The b4 is a good car to mind , but the 210 is stronger
And better
Gav just biased cos he's got a fragile kyosho

[Gavin Collingwood]

Jonny are you serious?..... The rb6 is a tank and probably the toughest car out there and everyone would back that up. The only downside of the car is the price.
And besides I'm not recommending the rb6 it's a unbiased opinion upon the H2 pro. For the money you can't beat it and they could easily have priced it at £200 and it would still sell

[Critch]

Oh my what have I started,So when I come down on Sunday I will easily spot you all,
Si you will be hiding in the cabin,
Gavin n Jonny will be stomping on each others cars,

LosiChris, thanks I will pop over and see you and silverfox,

I supposed that it a very good point Robby,

Let's see what Sunday brings,

[Chris Elworthy]

The 210 rtr is by far the best option out there in price vs performance at the moment £169 is a steal IMO. It has to be said that the 210 ball diff can be a little troublesome if not built correctly but if I am not mistaken the 210 rtr comes with a pre built geared diff which is ideal for somebody starting out due to reliability and low maintenance.

As has been mentioned earlier you will not feel the benefit of a mid motor car until you have mastered at least the basics of car control and getting around without crashing. The Hobao H2 is also a good option but does not come as a rtr car so will end up costing more to get up and running and to be honest there have been quite a few reliability issues with them. The B4.1 is a reliable car with plentiful spares support but if you wished to upgrade to a mid motor car it would mean the c4.1 conversion kit which is a bit pricey at £170.

I am advising you here with absolutely no bias, I run the Schumacher SV2 I just believe that the 210 rtr is an absolute steal for a beginner, it's cheap, strong and can be easily converted to the mid motor configuration fairly inexpensively with the mid motor conversion kit fr

[losichris]

on the h2 note, ive just had a play at the track,had a small scale flip and broke a rear shock tower. the plastic looks thick and strong but it really is brittle. id steer clear for a beginner!!

[Alan Reeves]

H2 is frgile, my mate has had 2 of them for him and his son and they break at the thought of hitting anything.
So far rear hubs, front hubs, front bulkhead and both shock towers.
Nice to drive but I'd personally go for the 210 having owned one last year thay are pretty tough.

[Critch]

After speaking to them at Je and a very nice gent in the shop at the time,(rides a Rc8 nice bike)
The hobao is prob not the best choice for me,
So I will have a shuffty at silverfoxs generous offer n make a decision

[Si Coe]

Gavin you are wrong as the RTR 210 comes with the gear diff. The 210 ball diff is a pain but the gear diff is bomb proof. Filled and fitted properly it will do a years racing without needing looking at. I've recently rebuilt mine, fitted new seals etc but really only so I could add the lightweight outdrives.

Otherwise the 210 is tough. When you consider what mine and Johnnys go through and just keep going.....

But in the interests of fairness and unbiasedness I should point out that the 210 RTR has one critical difference to our 210's - it has the +8mm Dimec chassis. Which has a reputation for snapping. Add the cost of fitting an alloy chassis to a 210RTR and its not a cheap proposition at all.

That said I'm considering getting one myself. I'd flog the electrics on ebay to recoop some of the costs and I'd basically have a complete 210's worth of parts for around £120. Now considering that includes a full set of Durango big bores, a full set of bearings, a pair of driveshafts, a gear diff etc has got to be cheap.


I should point out that whilst I own a 210 I have driven an H2 and would in fact have run Johnny's in the next round if the driveshaft hadn't snapped. So its not bias its personal experience.

[Si Coe]

Originally Posted by Critch

Oh my what have I started,So when I come down on Sunday I will easily spot you all,
Si you will be hiding in the cabin,
Gavin n Jonny will be stomping on each others cars,

LosiChris, thanks I will pop over and see you and silverfox,

I supposed that it a very good point Robby,

Let's see what Sunday brings,

The difference is Johnny's car already looks like someones stomped on it, whereas Gavin crys if he gets a single spec of dust on his. The funny thing is that their full sized cars follow this trend too!

[Critch]

After speaking to the guy at Jemodels,

He advised the 210 would be better for me rather than the H2, which I thought was v honest considering he would make more money on the H2, with
all the extra parts I would buy,

So I am pretty sure the H2 is now out of the picture,

At the moment I am very drawn to silverfox's car so will see what Sunday brings