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[Burty248]

10.5 is plenty for 2wd i run one at maritime and seem to be able to keep up with everyone in my heat so i guess thats allright.

If your coming to chatham there are plenty of drivers with the losi 22 and the durango aswell. There are still some people with b4's, rb6's and many other car types.

There is plenty to look at.

[Team No Idea]

Hello, just a thought. We have a little guide on our website that you may find useful if you are starting out in RC racing. Feel free to take a browse!

http://www.teamnoidea.com/getting-st...in-r-c-racing/

[markemark21]

Originally Posted by trr061984

As a new driver a 10.5t will be sufficient fast enough in a 2wd (or it was for me when I started out). Some will suggest you go lower, and most use 7.5 or 8.5t once they are established.

Ok thank you for letting me know so there is no rule on how many turns you have then? What would be a good buy on 8.5 turn how bout the ez run I've been using them in my beach buggys. Or should I get some thing like a castle or fusion?

[trr061984]

Originally Posted by markemark21

Ok thank you so there is no rule as such on how many turns you have then?
I've been using 8.5t in my beach buggy it's a ezrun would some thing like that be ok or castle or fusion I really don't want to spend over 120ish one a esc and motor

Some clubs will have rules pertaining to motor turns etc, but I would say that the majority do not.

If you currently have a 8.5t, then I would stick with it. For what its worth, I would go to my local club with what you have, give it a go and see how you get on. Driving ability is a lot more important at the beginning of your club career then having a super fast motor etc. Therefore, give it a go, and see how you get on, then decide whether you need to buy some quicker stuff.

[dicky14]

if you havnt raced for a while go for a tc02c, easy to drive because they are forgiving, i run one and only break the occasional front wishbone, its a good car

[markemark21]

Originally Posted by trr061984

As a new driver a 10.5t will be sufficient fast enough in a 2wd (or it was for me when I started out). Some will suggest you go lower, and most use 7.5 or 8.5t once they are established.

thank you for the reply so i guess there is no rule as such on how many turns you have. ive got a ezrun 8,5 t seems ok but is there some thing else i should look at like castle or fusion but wanna keep it about £120 ish

Originally Posted by Team No Idea

Hello, just a thought. We have a little guide on our website that you may find useful if you are starting out in RC racing. Feel free to take a browse!

http://www.teamnoidea.com/getting-st...in-r-c-racing/

thank you for that thats made me understand it abit more

i will be coming to maritime tommro nite im looking fwd to seeing what people have got and see some racing hope to see some of you tommro
cheers
mark

[markemark21]

Ok guys think I've nailed it down to two buggys a losi 22
Or a sv2 just don't know what one to get

[chrispattinson]

Originally Posted by markemark21

Ok guys think I've nailed it down to two buggys a losi 22
Or a sv2 just don't know what one to get

Both capable and good quality cars.
Try listing the spec of each, and then deciding. For example, do you have an existing set of tools?
Losi designed in the USA and Imperial hardware.
SV2 designed in the UK and metric hardware.

[RobW]

Had both cars and definitely both good cars and you won’t go far wrong with either.



I found the Losi bulletproof - I bought a few spares but can’t remember actually breaking anything. Few issues like with any car but easily solved. Kit diff balls and screw are rubbish – might as well replace when you build the kit – probably cost about £12 tops. Out of the box in some track conditions it did suffer from a lack of rear traction but there is now a lot of set up information available to cure this and most people change the HRC rear block. Not a lot of room under the shell to get your electrics in so you’ll probably end up buying another shell but I found mine went better with a cab forward (FTW) shell anyway which had a load more room underneath.
SV2 kit is a joy to build, it just falls together, and they have done a lot of the work for you like the shell and wing coming pre-cut. Feels like you get quite a lot for your money in terms of nice alloy bits. No need to really buy anything apart from the normal pistons/springs etc to suit track you are running on. If I have to come up with negatives in my experience it is not quite as strong as the Losi – had a couple of breakages (front bulkhead and servo saver) in not particularly bad accidents but then again any car can break if you hit things hard enough. Not trying to suggest it is a weak car in any way -just my opinion that Losi would not have broken in same accident. Also IMHO the rear gearbox seems overly complicated – there really is no need for the external idlers – so neither of 2 SV2s I built had the smoothest of gearboxes I’ve ever experienced but does not seem to affect performance. Also I almost guarantee that you’ll take at least 2 attempts to build the diff first time around due to annoying c clip – once you have it sorted its fine.


For me they are so close that I’d just choose the most popular at the track you are going to race at most or if you have a local shop, which one is best supported.



Rob

[markemark21]

Originally Posted by RobW

Had both cars and definitely both good cars and you won’t go far wrong with either.



I found the Losi bulletproof - I bought a few spares but can’t remember actually breaking anything. Few issues like with any car but easily solved. Kit diff balls and screw are rubbish – might as well replace when you build the kit – probably cost about £12 tops. Out of the box in some track conditions it did suffer from a lack of rear traction but there is now a lot of set up information available to cure this and most people change the HRC rear block. Not a lot of room under the shell to get your electrics in so you’ll probably end up buying another shell but I found mine went better with a cab forward (FTW) shell anyway which had a load more room underneath.
SV2 kit is a joy to build, it just falls together, and they have done a lot of the work for you like the shell and wing coming pre-cut. Feels like you get quite a lot for your money in terms of nice alloy bits. No need to really buy anything apart from the normal pistons/springs etc to suit track you are running on. If I have to come up with negatives in my experience it is not quite as strong as the Losi – had a couple of breakages (front bulkhead and servo saver) in not particularly bad accidents but then again any car can break if you hit things hard enough. Not trying to suggest it is a weak car in any way -just my opinion that Losi would not have broken in same accident. Also IMHO the rear gearbox seems overly complicated – there really is no need for the external idlers – so neither of 2 SV2s I built had the smoothest of gearboxes I’ve ever experienced but does not seem to affect performance. Also I almost guarantee that you’ll take at least 2 attempts to build the diff first time around due to annoying c clip – once you have it sorted its fine.


For me they are so close that I’d just choose the most popular at the track you are going to race at most or if you have a local shop, which one is best supported.



Rob

Thank you, loving the quick responses by the way well the hobby store I rang suggested the sv2 to me a good starter and he has all the spares and carrys them at his shop at the track so that's handy.
Also just looking at the pics of the sv2 it just says quality I can't see any plastic on it. And doesn't look like you need any upgrades for it maybe some weights.

The 22
There are a lot at the track seeing so many skinny things running about the track not doubting them just saying there are a lot. But looks like you have to spend loads of money for parts and buy more up grades.
I think I will end up buying a sv2 I spose it wouldn't matter wicH one I buy
I can't go wrong.

[markemark21]

I've got two sets of kyosho velvets should I use them on the new buggy or keep the standard ones.

Another question can I convert the sv2 in to a rear mounted at all