Diff Issues

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I think I got that DB-01 front one-way to fit.
I found some spacers jimmy it's those little pieces of rubber that go on
servo ends, well I cut some of those up and used longer screws I found.
It worked now I have a working front one-way, I also threadlocked the screws also. I'll post pics later on.

[Northy]

Leg-end.

Jimmy, why didn't you think of that?

G

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by RcRob

Strange that, this weekend at the National, which was possibly the highest grip track of the national series this year, I saw nearly all of the top (best in the country) drivers (of which you were not one of them) adjusting there slipper so that it SLIPPED!!!!!!

Have you noticed that for everything that is wrong with this car you are the common factor and nobody else has the problems, maybe the problem is you? I've also noticed that everything that is wrong with the Tamiya is better'd (is that a real word? ) by the mighty Kyoshos (that you have since re-designed) from 1362, why not race that? It will be cheaper to as the belts last 48 years and still don't have any wear

Hehehe funny arent you!! Obviously you cant read as I said I used the slipper DUH!!! Also I have only got an issue with the diff, and a simple and effective solution, but as you didnt read this thread properly its not my fault. This is a thread to pass knowledge and info on so others who have the same problem will be able to easily rectify it. Maybe your still at school so explains a lot.

[DCM]

Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX

I think I got that DB-01 front one-way to fit.
I found some spacers jimmy it's those little pieces of rubber that go on
servo ends, well I cut some of those up and used longer screws I found.
It worked now I have a working front one-way, I also threadlocked the screws also. I'll post pics later on.

wtf that got to do with Diff issue's dude....

[RcRob]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Hehehe funny arent you!!

I didn't think so, but cheers anyway

Originally Posted by Welshy40

you cant afford to have a slipping diff, possibly just a fraction on the slipper, but hardly any.

That implies you want the slipper slipping as little as possible, when in reality it wants to be slipping 3-5 feet on hard acceleration so that when you land from jumps, hit bumps, get on the power hard the slipper takes some of the abuse, not the drivetrain, maybe that is why you are experiencing poor diff/pulley/belt life.

Once again, the common factor in all your problems is you, maybe you are doing something wrong

PS, B-Mag is AWESOME , Welshy is not as awesome

[edvin]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

However I have not yet tried the Kyosho diff spring which may be my next trial, as I do feel that the part that is causing the problem may be just that, a weak spring.

Tamiya spring is a bit soft, this is true. I just tried Kyosho spring, it fits perfectly - outer diameter and length are same, only wire is thinner, but it is even a bit more softer (or almoust same).

The worst thing is locking nut, it is not locking enough.
I'm using 2 locking nuts and threadlock glue between them, it helped.

[minichamps11]

Originally Posted by RcRob

I've also noticed that everything that is wrong with the Tamiya is better'd (is that a real word? ) by the mighty Kyoshos (that you have since re-designed) from 1362, why not race that? It will be cheaper to as the belts last 48 years and still don't have any wear

My Lazer ZX-R used to run gear diffs on carpet......they didn't slip at all. I recommend this 1980's technology for James's 501X.

[Welshy40]

Hehehe kids these days. If you hold the car flat to the floor and set the slipper so it struggles to slip then its set. (why dont you ask Craig Harris how he does it, as he showed me back in 1988. If you jump and land with full throttle then so be it but I tend to let off when it hits the deck and use a thing called throttle control to drive the car onwards.

I have not had any belts go yet and would hope that these last as long as the well built Kyosho cars (2 belts in 10 years is really good). If it does then bang on. Oh by the way, Craig Harris can pretty much verify the belt wear on my lazers and the amount I raced every week, as he was at most of them.

Originally Posted by RcRob

I didn't think so, but cheers anyway



That implies you want the slipper slipping as little as possible, when in reality it wants to be slipping 3-5 feet on hard acceleration so that when you land from jumps, hit bumps, get on the power hard the slipper takes some of the abuse, not the drivetrain, maybe that is why you are experiencing poor diff/pulley/belt life.

Once again, the common factor in all your problems is you, maybe you are doing something wrong

PS, B-Mag is AWESOME , Welshy is not as awesome

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by minichamps11

My Lazer ZX-R used to run gear diffs on carpet......they didn't slip at all. I recommend this 1980's technology for James's 501X.

Yup the gear diffs put me 5th in the indoor champs infront of Dave Duggan and a few other F1 drivers. Still the ball diffs were just as good, and also put me in some very nice A finals.

[DCM]

guys, if the nut isn't locking, change it.... seriously, the only spring that needs changing is the slipper spring to something with more finer feel. The diff is fine... as good/bad as anything else.

[DCM]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Hehehe kids these days. If you hold the car flat to the floor and set the slipper so it struggles to slip then its set. (why dont you ask Craig Harris how he does it, as he showed me back in 1988. If you jump and land with full throttle then so be it but I tend to let off when it hits the deck and use a thing called throttle control to drive the car onwards.

dude, that was 20 years ago, cells and motors have come on leaps and bounds!!!! I am sure Craig now sets it a bit differently...

James, to justify your argument, start quoting from the 21st centruy.

[RcRob]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

(2 belts in 10 years is really good)

This thread.

Originally Posted by Welshy40

2 belts in 18 years.

Pulley wear thread.

I thought it was 18?

I'm sure the design and use of slipper clutches have changed over the past 20 years, the power output of motors and batteries certainly has so they will need to be set differently.

BTW, do you love Craig Harris, he seems to be able to vouch for everything you have ever done?

[ben]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

If you hold the car flat to the floor and set the slipper so it struggles to slip then its set. (why dont you ask Craig Harris how he does it, as he showed me back in 1988.

Maybe slippers have changed since then. Wait a sec did cars even have slipper clutches then

[Welshy40]

If the kyosho spring is softer then Tamiya's one is the way to go. Cheers for that.

The locking nut and screw, well the way to go is to look for these kyosho part numbers.

WBD-5 (Item 1 is the lock nut, 2 is the spring) and WBD-6 (item 17 and 18 are the thrust race and plates, item 19 is the screw and 20 and 21 are the covers to protect the screw, hopefully a hex allen key screw head). These come with a complete Lazer diff, so would be advisable to investigate and see if they sell these parts without the diff cups and diff gears. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by edvin

Tamiya spring is a bit soft, this is true. I just tried Kyosho spring, it fits perfectly - outer diameter and length are same, only wire is thinner, but it is even a bit more softer (or almoust same).

The worst thing is locking nut, it is not locking enough.
I'm using 2 locking nuts and threadlock glue between them, it helped.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by ben

Maybe slippers have changed since then. Wait a sec did cars even have slipper clutches then

Hehehehe class!!! Im old but not that old hehehe. Here is a good one, when did the slipper clutch come into the RC world. Heck I always remember slippers since I started. I know Schumacher brought the ball diff so who was responsible for the slipper?

[RcRob]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

The only thing I didnt change was the spring, which I think may be the real problem with the diff, as its not strong enough to give a totally slip free diff

Yet you say:

Originally Posted by Welshy40

If the kyosho spring is softer then Tamiya's one is the way to go.

Could Craig Harris vouch that:


Cos Hulk says:

[Welshy40]

I wouldnt say I love Craig, just grew up with him in the racing clubs over a twenty year period. Had a giggle did some racing and called it a day.

Hehehe well it seems your coming out of the closet, as those two pics seem to say hehehe

Originally Posted by RcRob

This thread.



Pulley wear thread.

I thought it was 18?

I'm sure the design and use of slipper clutches have changed over the past 20 years, the power output of motors and batteries certainly has so they will need to be set differently.

BTW, do you love Craig Harris, he seems to be able to vouch for everything you have ever done?

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Originally Posted by DCM

wtf that got to do with Diff issue's dude....

I'm finnally pickin' up those tungsten diff balls at my LHS also.
Did you know the tungsten is the same metal used in kitchen sinks,
to prevent corrision, most of you probably already know that tho

Damn they better be good for $21 dollars a set, I mean 2 sets is $42
Talk about expensive. .................................................. ......

I'm sure it will be worth it in the long run.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

[quote=RcRob;138388
PS, B-Mag is AWESOME , Welshy is not as awesome [/quote]

Why you dont like Welshy, why not???

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

A.J.Gee - Have you checked the UJ pin, as the same thing happened to me, the pin cam slightly out and stopped the wheel, then slotted back in etc etc. I ended up taking the pin out and dremelling a flat spot in the centre so the screw locks it in permanently. I have not had that problem again.

If it isnt then your ghoing to have to do a rebuild and possibly the thust race could have been damaged.

501X Driver - you seem to misunderstand, you appear to race on dirt, dust and basically surfaces that are not high traction. Yes skill is a big part, especially the surfaces you race on, and great to hear how competitive you are - keep it up.

We in the UK race on high grip surfaces where torque is needed and no slip on the diff is required (well im my case anyway). We even race a lot on carpet and for the most torque/accelaration you cant afford to have a slipping diff, possibly just a fraction on the slipper, but hardly any.

I like yourself have plenty of racing experience as well and have always built my diffs by following a simple principle (associated and kyosho use this) - Tighten all the way up and then loosen off as this will bed in the spring and then you can tighten or lose off whilst tuning the car for its first run.

However the standard diff doesnt totally stop slipping, as you can tighten it all the way, hold the spur and other wheel and turn the free wheel and there is still a lot of slip. I am not dissing Tamiya, but this car was never sold in this country so kindof guess no feed back was given into the cars design from here.

I solved this problem by putting in a kyosho thrust race (bigger balls and a bigger screw hole on the plates) and also a bigger screw (almost twice the size)with the appropriate metal associated lookalike diff nut.

This now seems to be resolved but until my next run I may do one more thing. However I can now run twice the amount of balls in the diff, making it far smoother. However I have not yet tried the Kyosho diff spring which may be my next trial, as I do feel that the part that is causing the problem may be just that, a weak spring. Hence why a few people have snapped the screw, maybe due to the springs that they have being a tad stronger. Its a work in progress, and hope that this information helps someone else out.

All Tamiya TRF cars (including the tourers) use the same screw/nut/spring/thrust bearing (some use a longer screw, but same thickness), so they are more than capable of handling high grip low slip tracks! I am not saying the way your doing it doesn't improve it for you, but seriously, it is not a problem with Tamiya diffs on UK tracks, they are fine!