HELP Please

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by /tobys

Having ddrs at max could be contributory, try turning it right down. I usually run mine at either 2 or 3 and has plenty of acceleration.

Had the same problem with my GT2.0 Pro which was causing the motor to run too hot, was set as standard DDRS at 7 and have turned it down to 4 but may still turn it down 3 yet...........both Esc/Motor running cool and good performance still

[Maddy]

Thanks,ill give this a try but if it frys another set of batts i think the speedo an motor will end up in the bin and start again.
Cheers

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by Maddy

Thanks,ill give this a try but if it frys another set of batts i think the speedo an motor will end up in the bin and start again.
Cheers

Forgot to mention that Motor/Esc/Lipos and wires were all warm/hot when running the DDRS at number 7 and also the Mah's used were 2300-2800 during a race in 2wd...........everything is now running cool and Mah's uesd per race is around 1500-1700

[Maddy]

Thats a massive difference.
i knew running DDRS high would draw some extra from the batts but didn't realize it could have this effect.
You might of just saved my day.
Cheers mate.

[sime46]

In my 410 with an Orion(similar) running a 6.5 Orion motor geared 87/22 I have temps on motor and speedo no more than 55degs with 10degs of boost and DRRS set at 2 and mine flies. Batteries and cables only touch warm. Never hot.

[MrMagoo]

What software is the SP running; stock or mod and which version? Some of the older software, especially the stock programs, were well known for drawing big currents and heating stuff up. Are you running drag brake? That can also make a big difference to temps and current...

Also, wouldn't recommend heat shrinking the solder terminals on the speedo. Some manufacturers use them as an additional heat sink, think Tekin do it, not sure about SP, but really if you solder and set up your electrics neatly it's not needed.

[Maddy]

I hope mine will run the same when i turn it down,love the buggy just a bit miffed with the problem im having at the mo but hope all will be well now.
Cheers.

[Maddy]

Originally Posted by MrMagoo

What software is the SP running; stock or mod and which version? Some of the older software, especially the stock programs, were well known for drawing big currents and heating stuff up. Are you running drag brake? That can also make a big difference to temps and current...

Also, wouldn't recommend heat shrinking the solder terminals on the speedo. Some manufacturers use them as an additional heat sink, think Tekin do it, not sure about SP, but really if you solder and set up your electrics neatly it's not needed.

Its the standard LPF and ive not modded the software so its how it came out of the box except for a couple of settings via programming box.
Not running any drag brake.
ill take the heat shrink of the soldered joints as there neat and tidy joints.
ill try anything to try and solve this problem.
Cheers

[imull]

I did similar with my Mamba Max Pro running tons of boost on a 6.5 in my B44. Didn't take the cells out but melted the wiring on the neg and on the link wire!

Can you set the speedo to 'blinky' mode with no timing at all and try it like that. Might be a bit 'driving miss daisy' compared with the current setup but if things still get hot then you might have fried the motor too. If it remains cool you can start adding the goodies on your speedo until you're happy