DB1 at worm

[coleman758]

I ran mine today at Chadderton, The first round was in short TERRIBLE i had to take the car off, It was un-driveable.

By the end of the day I had the car going great. It was very easy to drive.
It was putting the power down as well as could be expected on that surface.

This is what I changed:

Middle hole rear shock tower.
Inner hole rear wishbone.

Middle hole rear shock tower
Outer hole front wishbone

Medium wheel base (Rear Hub 1mm each side)
No spacers under rear inner ball studs.
3mm under inner front ball studs.

Rear/ Big Bore / Losi Pink Rear / 5-Hole 1.4 / 35wt
Front/ Big Bore / Hard Orange / 5-Hole 1.3 (Kit) / 40wt

Everything else was as per Kevs' kit setup. If I had more time I was going to lengthen the rear links to try to calm the rotation.

[gixxer]

Thank you for all the advice that's Been posted but I'm getting conflicting advice with reguards to adding or removing spacers from under the inner ball studs, which gives more side grip? More spacers or none ?

[coleman758]

I find that less spacers or a lower ball stud give you more rear end grip.

[RogerM]

It depends on if you are lacking grip into or later in the corner. If lacking on entry then lower the inner ball stud, if you're okay on entry but lacking later then raise it.

With the db1 I found that in slippery conditions it was easy to get to the point where the massive amount of steering the car generates over powers the rear. For that reason I always preferred mini spikes on the front as you could remove a row or two to reduce the late corner front end grip. Also increasing front droop helps a lot as it allows more rearward weight transfer on power, running almost zero antisquat also improves things greatly.

[Mr Eccleston]

Any thoughts on using additional toe in with the optional 1 deg outboard alloy hubs.

[gixxer]

Originally Posted by RogerM

It depends on if you are lacking grip into or later in the corner. If lacking on entry then lower the inner ball stud, if you're okay on entry but lacking later then raise it.

With the db1 I found that in slippery conditions it was easy to get to the point where the massive amount of steering the car generates over powers the rear. For that reason I always preferred mini spikes on the front as you could remove a row or two to reduce the late corner front end grip. Also increasing front droop helps a lot as it allows more rearward weight transfer on power, running almost zero antisquat also improves things greatly.

Thanks roger that's made things clearer

[RogerM]

John, if you still have my number you can give me a call if Paul can't help.

[focusmad]

Hi the problem with my db1 is I have no forward grip in the wet, running yellow staggered ribs on the front.
Chris

[RogerM]

Ok .... stagger ribs + wet actually equals too much front end, especially in green compound!! Bare with me .. I've not gone mad!!

I found this out earlier in the year (cost me a regional) and have seen a few other people learn the same thing, most recent Gaz Stanton with his C4.1 last weekend!

What happens is the sharp sides of the staggers don't slide on the damp surface like the points of a spike do, added to the fact that a cut stagger has more 'edges' biting than slim minispikes too and your into a bad situation.

I would ALWAYS recomend using minispikes on the front in the wet / slippery surfaces as they give better ballance to the minispike rear tire. If you have too much with a slim minispike then cut a row or two off. If you cut a row out off staggers you loose the radiused edge and can actually make them slide less rather than more.

With the DB1 (and RB6) there is so much natural front end bite, hence why we need no weight in the front of the car at all, it is more noticiable than on the RB5 which was a bit more forgiving on the front end.

What to do with any Kyosho 2wd on slippery stuff .... especially the aggressive DB1 & RB6.

1) Reduce antisquat -- zero is best when you want a really solid forward drive. This encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

2) Soften rear springs -- Kyosho blacks on a DB1 and X-gear whites on an RB6 work well as a starting point -- encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

3) Increase front droop by 1 to 2mm -- encourages rearward weight transfer on power.

4) Raise rear inner ball stud if the car is lacking late corner / exit grip as this will reduce the on-power steering and make it feel more neutral out of the corner.

If that all fails get out a power boat (Kyosho make some nice ones)

[highlander]

I'm starting to see the light thankyou roger..... a few things to go away and try now thanks again mate

[hotrodchris]

Thanks Roger when is your book coming out can I pre order better thanks them Hudy manua more in depth and in easy to understand language

[Paul Field]

Try everything Roger sais.
When its really greasy try.
About 60g under each lipo and 60g in the spine.
I recently tried 4 degree toe in on the rear which seemed to help.
You can also flip the rear wishbones to shorten the wheelbase to aid traction and run the front uprights in the forward position to lengthen the wheelbase.