New X-6sq Owner

[Chippy96]

Adding to what Chas has already put,it pays to shim the spacer as tight as you can get it (tight enough so you can just get the wheel drive pin in-shims furthermost in side)otherwise if left loose the aluminium spacer is left to float and it wears away.I lost a driveshaft at the weekend (and chewed up the spur gear),it took a bit of head scratching to sus out why,luckily I had a spare pair of used driveshafts in my box with the spacers,immediately after looking at these it was evident the spacer had worn away.Swop spacer and shimmed up nice and tight and away!!Chas/Darren,does the spacer come supplied with new axles?I need new axles,they are getting worn now and could do with new ones...

[diggsRC]

I had the same problem. I use the TLR22 shocks and every time I landed from a big jump the drive shaft would pop out. The X6 loves droop so I decided to keep the full droop and shim the shaft into the drive cup with 2 of the drive shaft shims on each side. I had to shave some material off of the outer wheel spacer, in order to get the pin through, and some off the A-Arm to allow the driveshaft to clear but it works like a charm. I've had several hours running with it like this and had no problems. The full shock length I use is 97mm. Check the pics below to see what I mean.

[Darren Boyle]

Originally Posted by diggsRC

I had the same problem. I use the TLR22 shocks and every time I landed from a big jump the drive shaft would pop out. The X6 loves droop so I decided to keep the full droop and shim the shaft into the drive cup with 2 of the drive shaft shims on each side. I had to shave some material off of the outer wheel spacer, in order to get the pin through, and some off the A-Arm to allow the driveshaft to clear but it works like a charm. I've had several hours running with it like this and had no problems. The full shock length I use is 97mm. Check the pics below to see what I mean.

Personally, I would say that the car pictured has quite a bit too much droop, the car does like droop yes, but that is a bit excessive...

Chippy, yes the XF5661 axles do include the spacers with them

[benl]

Thanks for all you help guys,
I had my first day with it today and it felt much easier to drive than the B4. Definatley more planted down the straight so much so that I actually turned some boost on and adjusted my throttle epa from 70% to 85%...Go me!!
I even managed to do a couple of the big tabletop jumps cleanly once or twice so better in the air too.
I mean i still did terribly (and broke it too), but had lots of fun!!
Once the grip levels came up i had real trouble getting enough front end steering so will need to have a tinker with that, although looking forward to it.
Thanks again
Ben

[BeachBuggyPhil]

Post up your setup and I'm sure we can offer some advice.

[super__dan]

How much weight did you run in the front?

[benl]

Thanks Chaps,
I was running the standard uk astro setup of the x-factory site although I may have gotten something wrong,
I am running 10g on the bulkhead and 60g under the speedo.
Lipo across the back and thats quite heavy.

[BeachBuggyPhil]

Thats a lot of weight.
I have a tiny brass front hinge pin brace and two thin triangle bits in the holes at the front next to the servo, no more than 10g each. My Lipo is across the back.
What ride height do you run at?

[super__dan]

Nah that's not a lot of weight on a grippy track, the under speedo weight doesn't do much for balance as it's near the centre of gravity. Even with the shorty lipo mounted front/back I have a brass bulkhead, pin retainer and a small weight on top, I think that totals 60g and is right on the nose.

On the weekend at Silverstone (which was REALLY grippy) I also had an under servo weight as under power the front was still lifting and losing on power steering.

[benl]

Cheers chaps,
I'm only using sticky weights for now anyhow so will have a play around next weekend.
I've just been trawling through this section and think it may that my servo saver isn't tight enough.
I may glue it and see if that helps
also 2nd spare x-6sq on its way now too

[arransmith27]

With the saddle pack chassis, I currently run 60g under the speedo and between 90g and 120g behind the servo.

Does an under servo weight make much of a difference in comparison to having the weight behind the servo?

[super__dan]

When I was running saddle packs I ran a piece of roofing lead cut to the shape of the servo bay area held down by the servo. this is low and obviously most of the weight is further forward than behind the servo so you need less of it to get the same effect. However the main reason I did this was becasue I had some roof lead and didn't have any brass ;-)

Now I run the shorty pack I found I preferred the brass bulkhead and on high grip the further forward weight bias this gives. Silverstone last weekend where I ran both was something of a one off as that was high grip on a level I don't think I've ran off road on. I didn't put a new set of tyres on my car all weekend.

[super__dan]

Originally Posted by benl

I've just been trawling through this section and think it may that my servo saver isn't tight enough.
I may glue it and see if that helps

Someone once had a go at me for bringing this up too often (or something like that) but as this shows it can't be stated often enough. On a high grip track even the HD spring isn't up to it in my opinion and it becomes vague when under load and then snaps shut (adding steering lock) as the corner load reduces. If you run it back to back unglued and then glued you'll potentially see a large difference.

That said I'd only do this if you have a metal geared servo.

The other alternative is alloy steering bellcranks like the nice ones made by J Concepts.

[benl]

Thinking about it some more I had a couple of occasions when the steering would suddenley become really positive and I'd start turning round in a circle, so much so that I thought I may have had transmitter issues.
Super glue for this weekend then J concepts here i come... mmmm shiney bits

[arransmith27]

Definately glue the servo saver if you have a metal gear servo, it really transforms the handling of the car and makes it feel less lazy.

I was thinking of going down the shorty lipo route. Would i needs to dremel away any of the webbing in the chassis. Also, is the standard battery strap capable of holding the shortly lipo in place down the centre of the car, or do i need to buy the old style 4x2 strap?

[super__dan]

Originally Posted by arransmith27

I was thinking of going down the shorty lipo route. Would i needs to dremel away any of the webbing in the chassis. Also, is the standard battery strap capable of holding the shortly lipo in place down the centre of the car, or do i need to buy the old style 4x2 strap?

Loads of info in this thread
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94213

[arransmith27]

thanks Dan

would you say the 4x2 battery strap is an absolute must, or could I get away with using the standard one?

[super__dan]

If clamped down well it would be OK for testing say but personally I wouldn't want to run it like that long term as you're holding down less than half the pack.

[arransmith27]

Thanks Dan

[benl]

Hi guys,
just a bit more feedback, Sunday car was awsome.
After glueing the servo I had way too much steering,(most likely because the week before I tried everything to get more) but managed to dial that down on quite quickly.
Transmitter issues ended my day when it decided to drive off in circles a couple of times then ignore all signal input going flat out on the straight!
but really happy with X-6sq so far.