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#21
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Couple of other things to try that I have found useful when its slippy, kit light blue springs, long wheelbase on the rear, and wind out the slipper til, it screams
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#22
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thanks for all the advice people
![]() looks like im going wrong with the tyres for sure. Im only running an 8.5 motor and i have adjusted the ESC and expo to make it much nicer to drive, and i do drive smoothly, it just seems to let go too easily. i'll also give shifting weight around a try ![]()
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#23
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![]() The only mid motor 2wd I've driven in low traction that doesn't behave as you describe is the Centro, you just have to adapt your driving style for the most part. In general the mid motor cars understeer on power then the window of neutral balance you have between that and snap oversteer is very small, rule of thumb is to be squared up and accelerate in a straight line if at all possible. The flip side is the mid cars usually have a higher minimum speed through the corner, so you don't need to get on the gas quite as early and drive the car with the throttle as you would with a rear motor. |
#24
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When wet I use BB Green or BB Pink if really wet and some Schumacher slim green on the front. I also want to try changing the toe in on the rear when it is wet as I think this will help alot.
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#25
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If it's really wet DBoots all the way in b compound!
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Chris TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!). KoPropo EX10 Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed Paint by Magoo |
#26
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Mine was horrible in damp/wet, I fitted a gear diff from the start. Thought I would try ball diff which improved things no end. I also went down couple of spring rates on rear.
Aren't Schumacher greens quite hard? I think Schumacher tyres go from blue (hard), green, yellow. Ballistic greens are soft which is why they work in damp/wet. |
#27
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Schumacher and Ballistic Greens are two different types of rubber all together Its not just the stiffness that's different as far as I'm aware.
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#28
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Thanks for all the help so far guys! forgot to say i am on a gear diff, but i actually think it felt better in the dry and wet than the ball diff i had.
will defo start to experiment with tyres!
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#29
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I couldn't get on with mine at all using the geared diff. no matter how light the oil was in it. put the ball diff in and it was decent.
I have to agree with Richard the centro is such a nice car to drive in the damp. I swapped from the DEX210 to C4.1 recently. |
#30
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+1. Silvers on 2wd when wet. Quicker then green. IMO
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Offroad: Asso B7 and 74.2 Onroad: X4F, Atom,TT01 Vintage: RC10 Worlds, B4, XXX-CR, Bosscat, ZX5 FS2, ZXRR Trader Feedback Link http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88156 |
#31
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I would say drop the gear diff. A gear diff with heavy oil or a tight balldiff will behave just like you describe. Almost like a locked diff. Pushing bad or spinning out because the rear wheels are trying to go equal fast.
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#32
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The car felt much nicer with the gear diff in the dry and wet than when I previously ran with the ball diff. It's only running 750 cst oil IIRC.
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#33
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Just to revisit this thread, thanks for all the advice guys. Ran the car on grass a couple of weeks ago, all was good, although i still felt like i was i little low on rear end traction.
So, i've rebuild the ball diff with b-fast balls and rings, and refitted. I've also done the high rear wing mod. My (not so) scientific test was to run the car in front of my workshop which is covered in shingle. With the gear diff it would break traction, mainly when the turbo came in, but would just rotate. I've fitted the ball diff and ran it again today on the same surface and its 1000 times better! it now pulls straight if it tries to kick out. Not sure how much the wing mod helps? But the diff is certainly waaaay better. Im not convinced that its because its the ball instead of gear diff, but more that i was running too thin gear oil in it....
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
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