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  #261  
Old 06-11-2011
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What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.
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  #262  
Old 06-11-2011
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What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.
TD330137 front , dk blue

TD33151 rear, light blue
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  #263  
Old 06-11-2011
kwiksi kwiksi is offline
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First raceday yest with the 210. No issues with kit diff or ball cups.
Did break a rear tower, but I think I would have broke one anyway with a diff buggy the way it landed.
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  #264  
Old 07-11-2011
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So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.
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  #265  
Old 07-11-2011
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A 26t pinion will give you 8.7 FDR and I believe that is the largest pinion you can fit with the 87t spur.

I have attached a screen-shot of a spreadsheet I'm using and the spreadsheet (zip'ed). Please use as you like.

PS! looking forward to try out the slick tires I ordered from you yesterday
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File Type: jpg dex210.jpg (173.1 KB, 73 views)
Attached Files
File Type: zip RS gear and speed calculator.xls.zip (4.3 KB, 29 views)
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  #266  
Old 07-11-2011
TonyM TonyM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.
Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion * Internal Drive Ratio
E.g 87/26*2.6 = 8.7 FDR. Not far off your 8.5.

I've run an 8.5 on a 26 pinion and found it about right on a tight carpet track. However, yesterday I ran a 9.5 with 27 pinion and this was as smooth as silk. To get the pinion to fit I had to lengthen the motor plate slots a few mm. Now the motor is just touching the chassis, so a 27T is about the max you'll get into a 210, with standard Spur.
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  #267  
Old 07-11-2011
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thanks, thats larger than what I have been using.. might be why I get quite high temps, the motor is spinning too fast.

ronsand I have shipped your slicks BTW

where do you get the 2.6 from in that equation? spur divided by 10?
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  #268  
Old 07-11-2011
chris_dono chris_dono is offline
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2.6 is the internal ratio of the 210.

I ran a 10.5 motor over the weekend geared with a 23 pinion ! BUT it was outdoors and I had my speedo set up for it. Gearing will always depend on your driving style/setup as well as the track
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  #269  
Old 07-11-2011
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2.6 is the internal gear ratio for the DEX210 (layshaft gears + diff-gear)
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  #270  
Old 07-11-2011
TonyM TonyM is offline
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Default Diffs

A question regarding the diffs. I've tried the usual method of fully tightening and then backing off 1/8th of a turn and I find my diffs still to be very tight. Another 1/3 turn seems about right, ie. backing off around a half-turn from fully tight. Do others experience this and is it possibly because of the larger diff balls (3mm compared to 2.5 on the Losi and AE machines) delivering a greater surface area and increased friction?
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  #271  
Old 07-11-2011
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I ran mine for the first time yesterday with no issues what so ever. However i did notice you can overtighten the rear wheels which wouldnt do the diff any favours
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  #272  
Old 08-11-2011
triplesix triplesix is offline
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That's what I noticed as well.
If you tighten the rear wheels to much, some binding will occur.
I guess this can be cured simply with a spacer between the inner and outer ball bearing in the hubs - as found on other cars...
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  #273  
Old 08-11-2011
1armed1 1armed1 is offline
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A traditional crush spacer will not work due to the inner bearing size, but.....

Place a 5x6x.2mm shim on the axle before installing in the hub.

There is a step in the axle, the face of that step meets up with the inner edge of the outer hub bearing.

Placing a small shim on the axle before that step will take the side load off the outer hub bearing making it last much longer, with no bind.

.2mm was plenty on my car to crank the wheels down with no binding, but experiment to see what you need.

Dayton
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  #274  
Old 08-11-2011
triplesix triplesix is offline
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great info!
thx
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  #275  
Old 08-11-2011
losichris losichris is offline
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has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much
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  #276  
Old 08-11-2011
1armed1 1armed1 is offline
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Chris,
I run rm3 on a medium grip tack.
Ran the first weekend with out them, Started the day saturday with them in.
After 2 packs I took them off.

Dayton
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  #277  
Old 08-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losichris View Post
has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much
I put them in the wrong way when I built the car (from the top instead of the bottom). But without the ends sticking out of the arms, so full droop. The car kept throwing it's ass up on the big jumps. And not a little bit. I just noticed I put them in wrong today, so I haven't ran the car since, but I think it was because of the droop screws.

Only ran the car on sunday, received it last wednesday. It handles great though. Had tons of grip and as much steering as you like.
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  #278  
Old 08-11-2011
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Out of interest what antisquat are you running? It seems a lack of rear droop might well be related to running the 0 degree block...
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  #279  
Old 08-11-2011
losichris losichris is offline
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im running the 3 degree blocks
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  #280  
Old 09-11-2011
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Finally finished building my 210, looks a cracking car and looking forward to getting out on the track. One issue I discovered last night is the right rear wheel is unable to fully rotate when the suspension is at full compression and full extension. When fully compressed the wheel rotation is forcing the suspension back down and vice versa.

I'm guessing its something simple, but my tired eyes and brain couldn't spot anything obvious. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
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