Tamiya's TRF501X Buggy on production! Soon

[DCM]

doh.... double post...

[DCM]

Originally Posted by neiloliver

I see the 501X for $479 out of HK at the moment (plus shipping and duty of course)... tempted.. tempted... about the same price as the Yokomo out of China... Shall I sell the DF03 (not built yet) and geta 501X?

please tell me what to do.. DCM, Jimmy?

Neil

Serious about 4wd, get the 501X, just do it on and off, keep the DF03.

[rado-steve]

Had mine down the warehouse in Teesside last night, Think every man and his dog came over for a gander like LOL!

Anyone else find that the belts are well tight on kit settings, not run mine yet though....so thinking they'll loosen up once run in????????

[mickyteng]

[HairySteve]

The whole drivetrain feels tight on mine, I'm going to bung a motor in it and run it on my 4 cell lathe battery for a while to bed everything in. The steering hubs feel quite tight as well, I think I'll have to investigate what's going on here, I think someone else mentioned that as well. I was thinking of sticking a steering servo in it on a servo tester and put it on test mode so it steers back and forth constantly, try to free it up. The only problem is at the moment I only have 1 stock motor which I'll have to steal out of my DF-03 until I can get a new one...
-Steve

[TRF_Tastic]

Steve, looking sweet there, cant wait for mine to arrive from JP, keep checking the track n trace number to check its progress oooooo,, come on!!!!

Its worse than crimbo when I was a kid!!!

[Dunc]

Originally Posted by Dunc

Jimmy,

Can we post links to company websites (or will people have to PM me)? There's a great place (for UK peeps, at least) where I've bought stainless steel screws from for my X10. I've had no problems with them, i.e. no stripped heads, they're keenly priced and they don't enforce any minimum order quantity (a problem with a lot of other places I've come across).

They mainly do metric, but have started doing some Imperial sizes. Currently, I don't think they do anything small enough for Losi and Associated kits though. Could always ask....

Thanks!

Judging by other threads, I don't think this is a problem. Try the following for stainless steel screws and nuts (I've already ordered myself a set + spares for around £15):

http://www.stagonset.co.uk

As I said before, metric is mainly their 'thing' (so good for X10 and TRF501X), but seem to be doing more UNC stuff too.

[jimmy]

Sorry mate, I didn't see that.

This is no problem! I only would have a problem with certain links or someone joining just to promote their shop / business.

[Dunc]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Sorry mate, I didn't see that.

This is no problem! I only would have a problem with certain links or someone joining just to promote their shop / business.

Cheers, Jimmy. I was just trying to avoid getting into trouble again!

[jimmy]

trouble ? here ? never !


I am just starting the build of my 501X at the moment - the shell I have to say looks even madder in the flesh ! good tho.
All looks like high quality stuff, so, back in a bit! hehe

[Elliott Hopkins]

Get in!

What paints are you going with Jimmy? What colours? Who is doing them?

Elliott.

[FifteenthNeo]

Anybody here have anymore updated build pics etc.

[jimmy]

here are a couple I just took. I wanted to get my light box setup in time for this car but Ive not had chance to build it. So these are still the old classic "on a bit of white paper".

[footey]

can u get the tamiya 501x from mb models leeds if so do anyone no how much

[Dunc]

All these pictures of other peoples cars is torture!

I notice in the manual that it suggests sealing the edges of all the carbon fibre bits with superglue: is it worth doing, i.e. are they really that susceptible to fraying? The car is too pretty for me to make a hash of it for no good reason!

Thanks.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by footey

can u get the tamiya 501x from mb models leeds if so do anyone no how much

he has one - not sure for how long though!?

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Dunc

All these pictures of other peoples cars is torture!

I notice in the manual that it suggests sealing the edges of all the carbon fibre bits with superglue: is it worth doing, i.e. are they really that susceptible to fraying? The car is too pretty for me to make a hash of it for no good reason!

Thanks.

I have done mine just for the photos really - I personally don't do it usually and don't think it is worth doing unless you can do a perfect job of it, since it would be so easy to make a bodge job and get glue all over the chassis and bits of fluff on there !
it is nicer to hold a car that has been sealed as it doesnt cut into your hands or leave nasty bits of CF in your skin - but this car has an undertray anyway so its only the top decks and towers that would possibly be a bit sharp for the handies.
The cell slots are probably worth doing though to keep from damaging the heatshrink.

[LEGEND]

Jimmy i was wonderring if you were taking it down to york in january or if you are coming to the mike leonard endurance race. Because a few people would like to see the car.

[Dunc]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I have done mine just for the photos really - I personally don't do it usually and don't think it is worth doing unless you can do a perfect job of it, since it would be so easy to make a bodge job and get glue all over the chassis and bits of fluff on there !
it is nicer to hold a car that has been sealed as it doesnt cut into your hands or leave nasty bits of CF in your skin - but this car has an undertray anyway so its only the top decks and towers that would possibly be a bit sharp for the handies.
The cell slots are probably worth doing though to keep from damaging the heatshrink.

Good point about the cell slots, Jimmy.

Do you apply the glue direct from the bottle or do you use something to transfer it from one to the other?

[neiloliver]

I have used one of those cheap kids paint brushes in the past (the ones you can get ten for £1). Use a very thin Cyano and dont use activator or it will bubble and bloom.

Neil