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#241
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right got car all built up and elecs soldered up but..... i cant get full lock to the right because the ball cup on the servo arm side hits the top of the servo, using a low profile savox with the kit servo arm, what can i do to get full lock again as dont want to have to file down servo casing. cheers
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racing made better with TLR, Tekin, LRP, Savox |
#242
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hi i,m using the same servo
just cut off a little bit of ballcup works great
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vroeger:kijk daar heb je joey nu:kijk daar heb je de vader van wesley & Dominique
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#243
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got it sorted with schumacher ball and cullcups :-)
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racing made better with TLR, Tekin, LRP, Savox |
#244
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As title what weight are people using, TLR front and rear weight kits, rudebits weights how much are you running and under what conditions ?
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Stevie Brew [email protected] http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#245
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I've only ran mine for one race on Sunday when the reciever in my Durango died, the car had no extra weight at all, in fact the car was a good chunk underweight, still drove really nicely, was keeping up with the 4wds in the race ![]() Only just got the rear weight kit, so will give that a go next time.
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Model Junction, Boughton Raceway. |
#246
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The 20 degree brass kick shim is 16 g heavier than stock composite part
![]() The 25 degree brass kick shim is 8.8 g heavier than the stock composite part ![]()
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Stevie Brew [email protected] http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#247
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#248
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were are these from
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#249
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Reg, they are on the TLR website under hopup's
![]() http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ickAccessories Hit ALL on hopup's ![]()
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Stevie Brew [email protected] http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#250
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as guys using using the savox 1251 ( spektrum 6040) will also find ball cup rubs on servo case at full lock, just sand the top of the ball cup on a flat surface until it clears, was about 1.5mm on my car.
Also dont fit servo horn central but one spline to right to correct offset on servo. |
#251
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the brass kick up plates are nice,but does it realy need any weight in the front as it will turn up its arse if you want it to with out them
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#252
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Just another tuning aid REG don't forget mid or rear mounted motor.
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Stevie Brew [email protected] http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#253
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can someone pass on the partnumber of the HRC-block?
I guess I must be missing something but could not find it yet, nor find it in a shop
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aka Ludo |
#254
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#255
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allrighty
![]() So there is no special plate or block, it's about the Toe and anti-squat-blocks. But then, can't you obtain the same results with the LRC-parts with extra shims to shim it up?????
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aka Ludo |
#256
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Thats what I was thinking , could be wrong though
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Bmcc . |
#257
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for the HRC you need the toe plates & the antisquat shim set.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2045 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2979 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2980 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2981 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2982 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2983 the antisquat shim set is more critical for the mid car as the gearbox is designed to sit into the front toe plate. |
#258
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ive just fitted the 4.0 HRC rear block, does this mean I need the antisquat shim set to make this change worthwhile? ![]() |
#259
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Yes you need the HRC AS Kit parts number TLR2045
Changing the to HRC means your changing the rear block hight and you need to compensate to get the correct AS angle for this change. Tony
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk |
#260
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