Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[jimmy]

Durango rims are virtually the same as Losi rims - I've not tried them but yeah they will fit. They are the same drive pattern as Losi rims, small hex front and pin rear.
They're great for indoor racing as the nuts don't stick out from the wheel, so they're protected.

[ScottyP]

Hi all,

Having a bit of trouble tracking down either a Durga or Baldre body shell for my DB01-R.

Will the 511 body fit?

Cheers,
Scotty

[jimmy]

No - you need either of those two original shells designed for the db01

[crusader]

Originally Posted by ScottyP

Hi all,

Having a bit of trouble tracking down either a Durga or Baldre body shell for my DB01-R.

Will the 511 body fit?

Cheers,
Scotty

Scotty, this is where i bought mine...

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...=OK&mth3=sinfo

[ScottyP]

Thanks Crusader. Think Baldre shell may be showing out of stock. Germany a bit far to ship to Australia too!

Also, seems the Baldre shell is now discontinued by Tamiya. Plus, even in Japan, the Durga shell is only available by special order. This is what I've had to do.

Tamiya has really dropped the ball here. If they don't provide a body with the DB01-R, then they need to ensure there are shell outs there people can buy!

Hopefully Azarashi will get on this.

Scotty P.

[Migs]

Yeah Scotty, it seems odd that they would release the db01r without a shell, then cut back/stop production on the only shells that fit, weird

[94eg!]

I think they underestimated the popularity of the car........or at least the ability for people to ruin their body shells.

[crusader]

On the rims issue...

I tested yesterday the Team Associated B44 rims (original front)/B4 rims (original rear).

DB01 (not R): Front Rims need a lot of shimming or else they rub. I used 5 shims to get these working without binding.
DB01R: Front Rims need 2-3 shims in order to work without rubbing.

DB01(both versions): Small issue with the Rear rims. The pin is somewhat fat and needs some 'convincing' to fit in the rims slot.

I suppose the LOSI rims are the best fit (fingers crossed)

Stef

[T4miy4 Guy]

Originally Posted by dimblum

The Losi rims are a direct fit - no modifications needed. I have used them a few times without any problems.

Not sure about the Team Durango rims - can anyone verify the hex size?

The front wheel hex is nominally 3/8" (Copied from AE and Losi)
This is approx 9.70mm

I pm`d Adam @ Team Durango

So they should fit

Andy

[T4miy4 Guy]

I have tried a Durango front wheel on a TRF501X and they seem to fit well, so they should be ok on a DB-01 also.

Thanks to Shanks

Andy

[crusader]

Guys,

Just tested both front and rear rims on the DB01 and i confirm that they are
a perfect match... Yippie!!!!!!!!!

[Migs]

Thanks crusader, thats good to know

Just wanted to let everyone know i took my db01r out for its first test run yesterday, there were about 6 of us with 4wd stocks just practising, and the db01r suprised myself and the other drivers, it was super quick in a straight line thanks to its simple and efficient drivetrain, and it really handled much better than i had hoped for, so far im very impressed, so a big thanks to everyone who has helped me so far and thanks to anyone who has posted in this thread because this is where i learned most of what i know about the car, will let you know how i go with it throughout the year

[davidk]

I ordered my DB-01R on ebay 3 days ago, couldn't find one in stock at one of the huge hong kong online stores.

I also preffered the Baldre shell and damnit it seems hard to get hold of one, finally found one on stock over here:
fusion hobbies (UK).

For the paint job i've picked up PS-21 (Park Green) for the overall color with some PS-7 (Orange) details on the side and wing. Bought PS-31 (Smoke) for "tinting" the windows and some parts that i'll leave translucent on the wing too. Can't wait to start building!

Also got the titanium hex screws for my DB-01R, any other tips someone can give me about building this puppy? Oh and does anyone have any pictures or scans of the stickersheet that's included with the baldre body shell?

[Carno]

Finished the build of a mate's DB-01R two days back. Two evenings totalling about 8 hours buildtime from scratch to fully operational.

Major differences between R and normal:
Chassis has a lot more flex. Could twist it a bit and did not remember this was able with the normal one.

A lot of the plastic spacers are replaced by alloy or metal ones. e.g. in the rear and front wheels in between the bearings.

Dampers do not come with the titanium coated pistons.

Now to find a baldre shell somewhere

[davidk]

fusionhobbies.com still has some!
is it with a ball diff? how did you assemble it? the ball diff grease or other grease? whats the best kind of grease to use for the ball diffs?

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by davidk

fusionhobbies.com still has some!
is it with a ball diff? how did you assemble it? the ball diff grease or other grease? whats the best kind of grease to use for the ball diffs?

The kit includes the proper ball diff grease. You don't need to use too much grease for each diff - just enough to coat the balls and plates.

Getting the proper tension is the tricky part. I used the Tamiya method of tightening the diffs which is covered in step 3 of the DB-01 build manual. This same method should be shown in the DB-01R manual as well. If not, follow these steps:

1 - tighten the diff screw till the diff feels firm
2 - run two thin metal objects (allen keys for example) between the slots of each diff joint
3 - hold the diff and the allen keys with one hand and grab the pulley with the other hand (basically the allen keys slid between the diff joints will allow you to lock the diff)
4 - Now try to rotate the pulley while the diff joints are held in place. If you can get the pulley to slip without too much force, then you need to tighten the diff a little more (repeating steps 1-4).. Keep tightening the diff until you can no longer rotate the pulley by force. This is the sweet spot for diff tension.

Overtightening your diff can be bad news. I have crushed a thrust bearing and the K4 plastic nut retainer by overtightening. This method has worked excellent for me.. Great driving control and the diffs stay in perfect condition.

Hope this helps.

[94eg!]

Just to add:

A ball diff is not a set-n-forget sort of device. The first couple runs on a new or freshly built ball diff WILL require a check & re-adjust. These break-in runs will wear a slight groove into the surface of the Diff rings. Also the spring tension will soften after assembly. This will cause the diff to start slipping within a run or two. Therefore I suggest you get used to setting a diff AFTER it's been installed in your car.

I find it best to test diff tension in the following way:
- With the car held in the air, give one wheel a quick spin with the palm of your hand
- It diff action should stop the spin within 3/4 of a turn on it's own

If you have a brushless, it may be necessary to block the opposite tires from rolling. Due to the lack of magnetic cogging, the brushless motor will NOT hold the spur gear steady when you try to spin the diff.

This test can easily be done with one side of the suspension dissasembled. This means you can make the adjustments on one side of the diff, while spin-testing the wheel on the other side.

[Power Surge]

On the subject of wheels, I put DF03 12mm hex drive wheels on both my 501x and my Durga (Dark Impact wheels on the 501 and ebay white 5 spokes on the Durga) and did away with the thin hex front and pin drive rear. Wheels run much truer than the original method of wheel attachment.

[T4miy4 Guy]

Originally Posted by dimblum

The kit includes the proper ball diff grease. You don't need to use too much grease for each diff - just enough to coat the balls and plates.

Getting the proper tension is the tricky part. I used the Tamiya method of tightening the diffs which is covered in step 3 of the DB-01 build manual. This same method should be shown in the DB-01R manual as well. If not, follow these steps:

1 - tighten the diff screw till the diff feels firm
2 - run two thin metal objects (allen keys for example) between the slots of each diff joint
3 - hold the diff and the allen keys with one hand and grab the pulley with the other hand (basically the allen keys slid between the diff joints will allow you to lock the diff)
4 - Now try to rotate the pulley while the diff joints are held in place. If you can get the pulley to slip without too much force, then you need to tighten the diff a little more (repeating steps 1-4).. Keep tightening the diff until you can no longer rotate the pulley by force. This is the sweet spot for diff tension.

Overtightening your diff can be bad news. I have crushed a thrust bearing and the K4 plastic nut retainer by overtightening. This method has worked excellent for me.. Great driving control and the diffs stay in perfect condition.

Hope this helps.

As the manual states heres the image TRF501X, (For the DB-01 I think shims on the outdrive are required )


Hope this helps
Andy

[Migs]

Hey guys, ive now tested the db01r at two tracks and it had its first club meet on the sunday just gone and im well impressed, so im going to run it this year as my 4wd, but now i want to make sure im not going to have any reliability issues, Primarily im looking at a few issues

Turnbuckles/ballstuds/ballcups having read a lot of threads about this car, i havnt seen many if any complaints about the standard items, anyone know of any issues? just from a a feel point of view, taking off a ball cup, it doesnt feel as tight as maybe an RPM one, this might sound like a silly question, but being an imperial racer for my career, im wondering if everything in the linkages is in metric including the actual ball of the stud, like are rpm 4-40 ball cups usable? if not, what is a good alternative, or is the general consensus that the standard items are up to the job

Wing mount - 3 racing do an aluminium one, my standard ones got bent up badly after one bad landing off a jump, ive seen a pic of two with people using them, or is it better to put up with replacing bent up plastic ones everynow and then

Shock towers, Atomic carbon ones look nice and ive seen a few people with them on their cars, worthy upgrade, i think a 5mm thick carbon front shock tower would be close to indestructable

aluminium steering bridge etc, has anyone found any benefit from using them, i dont think it would ever break but i suppose it could be flexing a bit under load, but i dont think i'll worry about it

aluminium front hub carriers/knuckles/rear hubs, on my xxx4 i used to break front hub carriers just by looking at the car, then i got metal ones and had no dramas, again, with the db01 i havnt heard people complaining about breaking any of those items, im thinking the hubs and knuckles and im already getting a bit of play in the bearing seats

thanks