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#2221
28-10-2009
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What are you running and are you getting heat problems? Andy
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#2222
28-10-2009
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#2223
29-10-2009
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The Tamiya brand Aluminum Motor Mount and the Heat Sink Plate for the carbon reinforced chassis is a great combo.. I've been using them for months now and the temps will make a noticeable drop..
I race outdoors (hard dirt), so every little bit helps.. I cannot vouch for the 3Racing versions of these parts, all I can say is the original Tamiya versions are awesome.. The redesigned motor mount is featherweight and uses less material than the stock motor mount.. I would like to change my carbon reinforced chassis for a DB01-R chassis though.. I have no use for the cut battery slots and they allow too much dirt to enter the chassis while running.. The DB01-R version without the battery slots it the one I want.. Too bad I have not been able to buy one as a separate part..
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#2224
30-10-2009
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Well, now that the mailman has arrived, I've finally got my own Durga. I'm certin that it's not for bashing... but for the time being we'll find out how durable it can be. Mine's a baldre, which I'm convinced is just a diffrent body. But here's the pictures of the assembly. I'm using a mm 5700kv brushless. Now I just need to find those cans of paint.....
     
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#2225
30-10-2009
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See this stuff all the time, a 5700 mamba on nimh...
 Those trinity reference packs are good for bashing in the yard, but they are unmatched just zapped, I have a few of them. I wouldnt race with that pack. The mamba likes Lipo.  Or at least get some NIMH matched packs for that car, you'll notice the difference.
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Associated B44, Tamiya 501x Worlds Edition Losi XX-4 finished project TRF 201(coming soon)
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#2226
30-10-2009
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Silly Question:
Do you need an ESC to run a stock Tamiya motor?! I have this combo ordered, as well as a 540, but wondering if the ESC I ordered will run the stock motor too, or if I need el cheapo ESC as well? Cheers! http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
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#2227
30-10-2009
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The nimh pack was the first one I grabbed. I've got a small (but growing) pile of 2S lipo's The NiMh i do have are for bashing / crawling.
Simon, I don't know if that ESC will run a brushed motor... But I know you can run the stocker on an el cheapo for kicks.
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#2228
30-10-2009
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Baldre is a great bodyshell and yes thats the only difference , if you put lipos in it make sure you buy a slipper clutch and watch your drive train and diffs or this will happen.....
 Theres tons of hop ups for the DB01 and personally i think its well under rated but thats because i race one probably  Andy
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#2229
30-10-2009
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I did the same thing, but whenever I upgraded my diff balls to tungsten
carbide, I never had an issue like that again. The stock steel diff balls generate alot of heat build-up causing the pulley to be melted. And for the durga get the slipper that just adds even more protection to the belts/pulleys.
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Associated B44, Tamiya 501x Worlds Edition Losi XX-4 finished project TRF 201(coming soon)
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#2230
30-10-2009
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Kewl, Good to know... I saw the same melting diff problem on a friend's DF-03, The slipper has been ordered, but it's going to be a while untill I get it. I did use the Tamiya Ceramic grease when I put the diffs together, and they are so smooth. I am now in love with that stuff, it's really impressive.
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#2231
30-10-2009
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Did some looking around... and that esc will run the stock motor.
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#2232
30-10-2009
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All you have to do is keep checking them , i have the uprated diffs with 501 out drives/ceramic balls, but Vince has the stock diffs on an ezrun 5.5t setup and he seems to be ok, just watch them for slippage . once you get the slipper and its set right happy days!
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#2233
31-10-2009
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I'm so glad I found this forum, You guys are so knowledgeable about all of this. I feel like an 8 year old at times. I'm confident now that I can follow the advice I get here and not blow the cars up.
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#2234
31-10-2009
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Now I've completed the build on the DB01 and the HPI Cyber10B, and I'm drawn more to the DB01 without even driving it yet. The cyber handles wonderfully, but with a lightweight 2S Lipo, it nosedives if it gets airborne at all. Just handleing the DB01 I know it's going to be quite a bit better. That and the cyber feels "extra tiny" in a side by side comparison. Has anyone else driven both? What's your take on the two?
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#2236
31-10-2009
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Well, my Baldre is now painted up. And I'm a sucker for posting pictures. Being overseas makes it completely impossible to get the proper paint, leaving me to scrounge the base for whatever spraypaint I can find. On this I used some VERY weird fast drying enamel. It's flat black, and called "Ammunition Top Coat" All I know is, it smells terriable, must be toxic / caustic, and I was afraid it'd melt the body. The can was pretty much empty, and I ran out before I could paint the wing.
 
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#2238
02-11-2009
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Anyone any advice for setting the mesh, it's tricky as the spur isn't held in place when you do it as the cover isn't on, does it hold true when you tighten the cover down?
What are the tell tale signs of the pinion mesh being too tight?
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#2239
02-11-2009
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I set the mesh with a tiny bit of play, then slap the cover on and roll the car along the floor. If the mesh is too tight it feels like the brakes are on. My method, I'm sure Tamiya guy has a better method he does race these guys
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#2240
02-11-2009
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Quote:
 You need to use the diff grease only for the diff assembly.. Diff grease thickens as it moves to slow down the travel of the diff for limited slip reaction (this also helps maintain traction).. The balls are not meant to slip against the plates - only roll along them.. Ceramic grease will encourage the balls to slip against the plates, even if the diff is well tightened. It will spin unnecessarily increasing the heat (more chance of a melted pulley), and it will also counteract the function of your differential.
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