Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by ScottyP

Slowly progressing the build of my DB01-R, but have run into a snag.

I didn't really pay any mind to it, but now that I have come to assemble the suspension I notice that the diff screws seems to protrude too far out into the outdrive. About 5mm or so.

This provides no space for the drive shaft to sit properly inside the outdrive as it hits on the diff screw! In fact, if I insert the red foam piece into the outdrive as per the instructions, the drive shaft won't slide in at all!

I have the thrust race in, and the spring. What gives guys?

Cheers,
Scotty P.

Did you flip the diff over when you mated it all together? If you look at that assembly step in the manual, between the two images of the diff there is a small twisted arrow indicating that the unit needs to be turned over - loads of people have missed this and it causes the diff screw/nut to exit the wrong outdrive and hence things don't fit. Thats my best guess anyways.

[ScottyP]

That makes sense guys. The head of the diff bolt is in the long outdrive, and I guess from what you're saying it needs to be in the short. This would fix the problem for sure.

Not sure how I missed that!

Thx.

Scott

[SimonBes]

Are foam inserts are requirement, or a 'nice-to-have'?
I've ordered the 501 hubs, and Tamiya high-density tyres, but not sure if I need foam inserts, and if so which ones!
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51240
and
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53986
refer.
Thanks!

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

Are foam inserts are requirement, or a 'nice-to-have'?
I've ordered the 501 hubs, and Tamiya high-density tyres, but not sure if I need foam inserts, and if so which ones!
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51240
and
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53986
refer.
Thanks!

Consider foam inserts a 'requirement' for all the tires you will use. Tamiya includes a different molded insert with their "K" and "C" type tires which is excellent. The molded inserts may not be compatible with other aftermarket tires and it is slightly more firm than you might want if you are racing on hard surfaces. Other than that, foam is the only way to go.

The "K" type tires (or 'K'it tires) are a medium compound and work good on grass, soft dirt, some loose dirt and probably carpet.. They are not very good for hard dirt or indoor clay tracks (I can confirm this from experience).. If you plan to race on a harder track, then you will want to invest in a softer compound tire. The good news is there are tons of aftermarket tires and wheels that directly fit onto the Durga. Panther, J-Concepts and Pro-Line just to name a few.

Let me know if you need more information.

[SimonBes]

Originally Posted by dimblum

Consider foam inserts a 'requirement' for all the tires you will use. Tamiya includes a different molded insert with their "K" and "C" type tires which is excellent. The molded inserts may not be compatible with other aftermarket tires and it is slightly more firm than you might want if you are racing on hard surfaces. Other than that, foam is the only way to go.

The "K" type tires (or 'K'it tires) are a medium compound and work good on grass, soft dirt, some loose dirt and probably carpet.. They are not very good for hard dirt or indoor clay tracks (I can confirm this from experience).. If you plan to race on a harder track, then you will want to invest in a softer compound tire. The good news is there are tons of aftermarket tires and wheels that directly fit onto the Durga. Panther, J-Concepts and Pro-Line just to name a few.

Let me know if you need more information.

Do the tyres come with foam inserts, or do I need t purchase them seperately?
Thanks!

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

Do the tyres come with foam inserts, or do I need t purchase them seperately?
Thanks!

All modern racing tires include the foam inserts nowadays. Tamiya is no exception - their "K" and "C" compound tires for the Durga, 501X, etc both include the molded inserts specially made for their tires..

If you need a softer tire for hard dirt or clay, then go with the "C" compound Tamiya tires..

My other favorites are J-Concept Double-Dees (green compound) for hard outdoor dirt tracks and J-Concept Bar Codes (gold compound) for hard indoor clay tracks.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Dimblum you must be american like me, we both race on clay.
It's the exact opposite in Europe, they run on grass type tracks, so they
get to run schumacher mini pins, or some other type of spiked tread pattern.
I have not tried pink taper slicks yet, but I'm thinking about cutting mine,
and then do what everyone else does and apply Trinity Buggy Grip.

[dimblum]

You guessed right. I live and race in Southern California

Buggy Grip was almost a requirement on the indoor clay track I race at. The new J-Concept tires are so good that Buggy Grip is not needed half the time. I prefer to run tires without it whenever possible, especially since Buggy Grip seems to wear down tires much faster. Tell you what though - if your tires are a little worn and you want to get more grip out of them before they are gone - then Buggy Grip away!!

I noticed that the tracks in Europe are much different than ours.. It's very hard to follow their setup advice since it does not apply to our track conditions.. Some of the tracks in Japan use loose or hard dirt, so I have had a little more luck following their advice.

Where do you race at right now? Have you found a pretty good setup for the Durga?

Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX

Dimblum you must be american like me, we both race on clay.
It's the exact opposite in Europe, they run on grass type tracks, so they
get to run schumacher mini pins, or some other type of spiked tread pattern.
I have not tried pink taper slicks yet, but I'm thinking about cutting mine,
and then do what everyone else does and apply Trinity Buggy Grip.

[DaveG28]

Guys what length screws are needed for the rear top shock mounts?

I stripped the heads on the kit 3x27mm ones before they were properly in (the screws are terrible!!), wondered if 3x25mm would go ok as I have some spare? The carbon's so tight don't want to install them without knowing they are right!?

[ScottyP]

3x25mm for the shock towers should be fine. However, you need to DRILL THE HOLES OUT in the tower so the screws slide in easily.

It actually tells you to do this in the DB01-R instructions. It's a bit annoying, and I don't really understand why Tamiya did not simply make them 3mm in the first place.

Cheers,
Scotty P

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by ScottyP

3x25mm for the shock towers should be fine. However, you need to DRILL THE HOLES OUT in the tower so the screws slide in easily.

It actually tells you to do this in the DB01-R instructions. It's a bit annoying, and I don't really understand why Tamiya did not simply make them 3mm in the first place.

Cheers,
Scotty P

As per the DB01R thread, Doh, just realised the bit about drilling out!!

Am going for 3x25mm for now.

Does the normal DB01 come with the bronzey metal shock top bushing? Seem like a much better idea than the plastic TRF one's as you can't crush them etc, anyone know why metal wouldn't be better?

Also, the front uprights (part 51308) have a different part number to the W/O versions, but look identical to me, does anyone know of any difference?

[Fredrik Emilsson]

I think the damper bushings on the DB01R are the new #54205 coated alu damper bushings. Correct me if I´m wrong.

The #54131 upright for the W/O universal shaft uses 950 inner ball bearing.

The standard #51308 upright uses only 1050 ball bearings.

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by Fredrik Emilsson

I think the damper bushings on the DB01R are the new #54205 coated alu damper bushings. Correct me if I´m wrong.

The #54131 upright for the W/O universal shaft uses 950 inner ball bearing.

The standard #51308 upright uses only 1050 ball bearings.

The DB01R instructions show using 950 bearings in part 51308? Hmm, could be a mistake in the instructions, anyone who's built the DB01R, which does it actually use??

Will check mine tonight anyway!

Your probably right on the damper bushings, they have a different part number in the kit instructions, but I know that sometimes happens with Tamiya!

[DCM]

Dave, if you are using the W/O driveshafts, you must use the correct hubs, and these hubs use 9x5mm bearings.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Originally Posted by dimblum

You guessed right. I live and race in Southern California

Buggy Grip was almost a requirement on the indoor clay track I race at. The new J-Concept tires are so good that Buggy Grip is not needed half the time. I prefer to run tires without it whenever possible, especially since Buggy Grip seems to wear down tires much faster. Tell you what though - if your tires are a little worn and you want to get more grip out of them before they are gone - then Buggy Grip away!!


Where do you race at right now?

I race in Albion, Illinois(Rectors Raceway), this track has been around since the late 90's. And I dont run a durga.
My cars are on my signature.
This track I go to only runs in the winter, so that is basically the only time
I can run modified 4wd. My 2 4wd's just sit on the shelf the rest of the time.
I went to thier opening weekend the 18th this month and they didnt
have any 4wd's show up there, so I ran my slash and E-firestorm.
4wd's usually dont show til either before the state championship, or after.
There's only a couple that run them still. The 15th on Nov. I plan to return there and run some 4wd,
basically it's supposed to be the warm up race before the IL State Championship.

[mof]

What tricks could one use to cool the motor down on a DB01? I have cut the cooling holes on the body, but I would rather not cut the rear open as more dirt would get on the ESC if I did.

Does switching to the carbon reinforced chassis with the aluminium motor cooling plate help?

Furthermore, if I were to swap the chassis and use the motor cooling plate, does using an aluminium motor mount (http://www.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2838) help?

[T4miy4 Guy]

Originally Posted by mof

What tricks could one use to cool the motor down on a DB01? I have cut the cooling holes on the body, but I would rather not cut the rear open as more dirt would get on the ESC if I did.

Does switching to the carbon reinforced chassis with the aluminium motor cooling plate help?

Furthermore, if I were to swap the chassis and use the motor cooling plate, does using an aluminium motor mount (http://www.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2838) help?

I run a DB-01 with the baldre shell and have cut air vents in the front before the motor and at the back as well behind the speedo, i don`t really have any problems with heat or excess dirt (run on astro) regarding the reinforced chassis this would probably help but i use the stock chassis without any issues and i run a 4.5T losi system! You could put a heat sink on the motor also like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/540-Motor-Heat-Sink-Blue_W0QQitemZ330360078087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_To ysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item4ceafebf07

Sorry didn`t click your link! yes the aluminium motor mount is a must in my opinon

Hope this helps

Andy

[mof]

Originally Posted by T4miy4 Guy

I run a DB-01 with the baldre shell and have cut air vents in the front before the motor and at the back as well behind the speedo, i don`t really have any problems with heat or excess dirt (run on astro) regarding the reinforced chassis this would probably help but i use the stock chassis without any issues and i run a 4.5T losi system! You could put a heat sink on the motor also like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/540-Motor-Heat-Sink-Blue_W0QQitemZ330360078087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_To ysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item4ceafebf07

Sorry didn`t click your link! yes the aluminium motor mount is a must in my opinon

Hope this helps

Andy

Will the aluminium motor mount help with temps? Local store has one of the 3racing ones I linked to left in stock, so I could get one pretty quickly.

[T4miy4 Guy]

Yes mate it will help, i have the 3 racing one fitted

Go buy it quick

Andy

[mof]

So it helps even without the carbon reinforced or DB01R chassis that has the aluminium motor heat sink (Tamiya part nr 54040)?