Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[dimblum]

Thanks A.J.

I do have the 501x diff parts and I am using ceramic diff balls along with a custom ceramic bearing kit from Boca..

I'm confident that my Durga is built well, I'm just not 100% sure that I have the car setup the best way possible.. It drives extremely well, but am always seeking more knowledge to improve it..

My driving improves little by little.. Driving techniques are the skills I desire most.

Dan

[sim]

Dan,

Your lap times have improved since you started using brakes?

I'm sort of trying the opposite a bit. I'm in no way a fast driver and have been talking to my friends who get to race and practice heaps more than me, mostly on on-road and touring. They mostly don't like using brakes and try to keep their speeds up as much as possible but I find I like to have a slight bit of drag brakes on the ESC to help me get round the hairpins, but it seems mine is the slow way. Maybe my cars are setup all wrong. Haha. I'd like to improve my driving and setups too so I'm open to suggestions.

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by sim

Dan,

Your lap times have improved since you started using brakes?

I'm sort of trying the opposite a bit. I'm in no way a fast driver and have been talking to my friends who get to race and practice heaps more than me, mostly on on-road and touring. They mostly don't like using brakes and try to keep their speeds up as much as possible but I find I like to have a slight bit of drag brakes on the ESC to help me get round the hairpins, but it seems mine is the slow way. Maybe my cars are setup all wrong. Haha. I'd like to improve my driving and setups too so I'm open to suggestions.

Sim,

Yup, breaking at the right times helped a lot with high speed off-road. I first noticed this when I drove over a tabletop jump right before a hairpin turn. When I hit the jump fast, I flew right into the pipe.. When I slowed down, everyone drove by me. The trick was to drive up to the ramp at full speed, tap the break before entering the ramp and then quickly accelerating back up to speed to grip the hairpin turn without flying off the jump.

It sounds easy, but it still takes practice to drive it right. The better my timing was, the faster I could take the turn.

I understand why most pro racers don't want to give up their driving techniques.. Its their 'bread and butter'. If everyone knew how they drove, then we could start matching their driving skill over time. Everyone needs their secrets..

I don't expect to find too many really detailed driving tips on the forums, but every little bit helps.

Dan

[mathsinstrument]

Here's a video of my local TAC race which i entered with my DB01. The poor frame rate is due to my lousy video camera on my cellphone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Bh-OSp1ljI

I know it's no fun running on flat ground, but the off road track at the same location was not ready at the moment the race was held.

[Spihc]

Hi folks.

I have a Durga that I just love to bash it around, its just such a great car for the money.

I have a couple of questions.

I have a 13t motor and I read somewhere that if you where going to use a high power motor you was forced to upgrade something, but I cant seem to remember what..

So what, and why do I need a upgrade?

I will not race with it, just bash around on various surfaces, jumping and having fun.

Thank you in advance

Tobias

[Spoolio]

Rear diff will need differential halves from the 501X, and you would be wise to fit a slipper clutch but just the single one, the double version is overkill for what you'll be using the car for.

[Spihc]

Hi,

Thanks for your response!

The slipper I can locate on ebay and will probebly be my next upgrade, but the diff halves seems harder to locate...

The 501x diff halves, are they made of a different material making them tougher or what am I looking for?

[aittam]

At last in my city opened an offroad track dedicated exclusively to 1/10 electric cars. You can see the layout of the track here.
The jumps you can see in the foreground and the double in the back are 1meter high. After the double there is a 50cm high triple. The straight before the double is 20 meters long.

So after one year spent hopping up my db01 (front and rear cvds, trf buggy dampers, slippery clutch, front and rear aluminum suspension mounts) only to play around in the garden or in parking lots, i decided to try it on a real track.

I have to say that i was really impressed by how well the car did in such a track. The car was really balanced, stable and very precise. I was running the stock setup with a Mamba Max 5700. With 2s lipo i could clear the double and the triple with no worries. With nimh i could not clear the double and could only clear the triple if i nailed the throttle on top of the second jump of the double.

The car is very robust and after almost 2 hours of hard beating nothing broke. The only problem i had was that one of the rear cvds popped out after an hard crash, even if i had previously shortened the trf dampers by replacing the rod end that attaches the damper to the suspension arm with a shorter one.

Now i'm waiting to get the front and rear carbon shock towers made by Atomic Carbon.

I can't wait to go back to the track again.

Mattia.

[aittam]

A couple of questions:

1) I'm running a mamba max 5700 with the stock spur gear and a 15teeth pinion gear. The motor is getting really hot and while the esc is just warm. Am i undergeared? Is the motor spinning to much for nothing? Should i switch back to the standard 17teeth pinion gear?

2) What is the proper setting for the slippery clutch? I fully closed it, then i backed up 1 turn. From a stand still to full throttle I can hear it screaming for almost 2 seconds. Sometimes i can hear it also if I nail the throttle after a sharp turn. Is this correct?

Mattia.

[DCM]

I would check your rear diff, if you are also getting screaming, make sure that isn't slipping, first.

Gearing, are you running on a track, whats your speed like, compared to others?

[aittam]

Maybe i used the wrong word when i said "screaming". It is more like a "zzzp" sound. I thought my diff were tight enough, because if i hold one wheel and the spur gear and try to turn the opposite wheel with the other hand it does not move. Maybe just a little bit if i turn hard.
In any case i will tighten both diff by half turn, just to be sure.

At the track i was the only one with the Mamba Max 5700. Other people were using 4.5 or 8.5. I could not compete with the guys using 4.5. I was on par regarding top speed with some of the guys running 8.5.

Mattia.

[Spihc]

Originally Posted by aittam

Maybe i used the wrong word when i said "screaming". It is more like a "zzzp" sound.

This is the same sound my diff makes!

[DCM]

to check the diff...

1. tighten the slipper up
2. hold one wheel with a hand, and the thumb on the spur gear
3. try to turn the other wheel
a) if wheel turns, but under force, diff is ok
b) if wheel turns easily, diff is loose.

If the diff is loose, and no amount of tightenning, makes it tight, then you must remove the diff, re-glue the plates, on the stock diff, or rebuild diff.

[Spihc]

A thought, the 501x wheels, do they have the same offset as the db01? So they are a stright swap If I find 501x wheels avaible.

[DCM]

yeap

[Spihc]

Anyone care to explain, the advantige a CVD or a UJ has to the standard dog bone?

[3975dave]

Smoother operation as well as not flying away in an accident.

[Hog]

Originally Posted by Spihc

Anyone care to explain, the advantige a CVD or a UJ has to the standard dog bone?

As Dave says - they don't bind up under hard acceleration.

[sirsomrak]

hi im planning on buying a ezrunBL system for durga.which u guys say is more suitable, 9t or 8.5t or 5.5t? i find out tat the 5.5t system is cheaper than 8.5t one on ebay!! weird.??

[3975dave]

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11958

Have a read through this. May have some helpfull info.