DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues

[neil_p]

Originally Posted by benjy

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me

As TonyM said, don't be put off, this is an awesome kit. On only my shakedown run I was doing exactly the same lap times as my B4, which I have had for a year now and know it well. Very promising indeed

Regarding the rear shock shafts, with the spring retainer fitted the piston top meets the top of the damper body perfectly. So this is not an issue. Thanks to Matty Lathem and Adam for the heads up on that, and to CD for the screws question I posted earlier.

[andys]

As said, don't be put off, generally the car looks like it will be very, very good.

At least you know what to watch out for now with the diff build, the steering I was worried about was fine on the track on my only outing with the car.

Yes the steering link looks weak, but who knows, it might be fine.

The car is great value, I was very impressed with my first run, went well considering I'd set up the front end all wrong !

Roll on a setup / tips section on the site to explain all the tuning options.

[kbrunsden]

i am finding it hard to belive you think the steering rack is week have you run it yet i have raced mine twice last week and had some big crashes and had nothing break as yet .

[Sheepdog]

Currently building mine, love it, for those who feel a little put off, there is definitely more positives than negatives!! very nice kit (diff next ) lol! seriously tho, looks good, one question for the powers that be, how long till we see some front wheels??? yellow and white please!!??

[zambo]

Originally Posted by zambo

Hi all,
i'm building my car... regarding the ball diff, I've noticed that the two small washers are different, i mean, one has a more "rounded" profile and has a diameter of 7.9mm instead of the other that is 8.0mm.
In the manual it says that the thrust is caged, but it isn't...
What is the correct sequence (1 or 2) for mounting the two different washers?
And then, when assembled the "thrust cage" in the correct sequence, on wich side will be the screw head?
Sorry, english is not my language, I attach an image that i hope will explain better than words the sequences...
Thanks!

Nobody has checked the two small washers?
I think, if it doesn't matter wich one goes on wich side, why are they different?!?
I'm thinking that only my kit has different washers.....

[Chris-S]

For those having a small issue with the turnbuckle threads being tight. Using the black grease from the kit, apply a good coating to the threads, then thread the turnbuckles into the ball cups all the way, then half way out, then back in again to the correct depth.

[Patte]

Originally Posted by zambo

Nobody has checked the two small washers?
I think, if it doesn't matter wich one goes on wich side, why are they different?!?
I'm thinking that only my kit has different washers.....

The small thrust washers is different on the x-ray T3 to.
I have tried to put them both ways and it did not feel or performed any different.

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by Chris-S

For those having a small issue with the turnbuckle threads being tight. Using the black grease from the kit, apply a good coating to the threads, then thread the turnbuckles into the ball cups all the way, then half way out, then back in again to the correct depth.

I'm not sure how you tighten them, but I found the Durango turnbuckles very easy to put on (the HD ones included). Just put a screwdriver or hex driver through the hole that you usually use, put the turnbuckle in a set of pliers and start turning. The leverage should make all the difference and make it super easy and super quick!

[Robocop]

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

[Chris-S]

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

I'm not sure how you tighten them, but I found the Durango turnbuckles very easy to put on (the HD ones included). Just put a screwdriver or hex driver through the hole that you usually use, put the turnbuckle in a set of pliers and start turning. The leverage should make all the difference and make it super easy and super quick!

Its more when adjusting them that if they are tight they can pop off the ball joints. Had the same with a cougar kit.

[Rich D]

Not wishing to rain on your parade dude but even the race proven 511 has pins that are easy to lose if you build as per the instructions or transport minus wheels fitted. I use a dab of tamiya anti wear grease. It's sticky enough to hold them in place yet they are still easily removed. HTH

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by Robocop

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

Associated B44 & B4, Losi 22 - all have loose pins which you need to dab a bit of thread-lock on, so it's quite common.

[Robocop]

Funny i just got rid of my 22 my mate has a b4&b44 and the pins dont fall out

[jkclifford]

Being loose, is probably better than having too drift the sods out like the front pins on the 410

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by Robocop

Funny i just got rid of my 22 my mate has a b4&b44 and the pins dont fall out

I should say on the B44/4 you can use the cheap split pins, but they easily bend and are a sod to get out and most people I know convert to the team FS pins which are smooth, but conversely easy to get out, just a dab of thread lock and they are superb.

The pins on the 22 are somewhat longer, but equally smooth. Perhaps it was my bad luck in getting ones that were loose.

[Adam Skelding]

Gearbox can be changed with a power driver in about 10 minutes, with 'hand' tools it took me 15.

Access to the droop screw. (Does it really matter which side you can access it from?)

Pins on the outside of the hexes... It's all about backwards compatibilty. I'm sure if we'd have moved the pin we would have had plenty of people complain that they need new wheels.

Originally Posted by Robocop

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

[fmo]

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by fmo

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

There are two spacers that fit into the alloy block.
Have a look at the online manual. The part number in the printed manual is wrong. It should all tighten together nicely.

[fmo]

I did check the online manual, the spacers are in. But when tightening the screws they first lock into the aluminium brace, the nuts might need an additional half turn to be tight...

[OneKiwi]

What front wheels fit? SV or B4?
I have the 22 rear on with a B4 spacer and a washer and 22 roll pin

Any others?