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#181
03-07-2009
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Yep, the D4 wing mount is a direct fit.
Must say I like the Cyber-10B mount more. It allows you to adjust the height but more importantly it has some flex. End result is the Polycarbonate wing takes less damage on impact - the wing mount simply flexes backwards. 
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#183
03-07-2009
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Quote:
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#185
04-07-2009
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Quote:
__________________
Ride: T.B.C
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#188
22-07-2009
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When you say white springs, do you mean white in colour, or white being the way they are graded compared to other springs?
If you mean white in colour, then Losi white rears will fit ok, but will be very soft, perhaps too soft. Hotbodies have "white" springs, which are black, with a touch of white paint on them so that you can tell which grade they are.
__________________
Model Junction, Boughton Raceway.
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#189
22-07-2009
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Quote:
Cheers 
__________________
Ride: T.B.C
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#190
22-07-2009
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Don't think so. White are usually quite soft from my experience.
I'm currently running kit fronts and losi pink or red rears. and this is tending to work on most tracks. Infact, I've not changed form pink rears since I put them on. Are the white spring purely for a colour matching plan?
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#192
22-07-2009
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I think some TC white springs are hard, but the Losi off road ones for the HB shocks are soft.
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#193
26-07-2009
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Im having a little trouble setting up the diffs in my cyber10b... this is my first 4wd car, and first to use ball diffs (comming from a rustler VXL) so it might be pretty elementary.
I built everything as per the manual, and used grey grease on all the dog bones & CVD's, and after a 5 minute bash in the dirt the whole driveline was caked with grit and binding up quite badly. Pulled it all down and cleaned it all out, but the diffs were still quite stiff and "gritty" in their motion. The 8 very small ball bearings under the diff screw were also covered in dirt, so I pulled them down and cleaned it all out. Bearings are still good, bevel gears too... without the screw in and just pushing the diff together it spins freely, but with the screw in (and 8 small ball bearings with a small ammount of grey grease) and the tension set so the bevel gear cant spin with two allen keys holding the steel outdrives still.... it still has a really gritty, far from smooth feel when spinning just one outdrive at a time. This is only really happening with the rear diff, fronts not too bad... there is definitely no dirt at all in there, so its got me stumped. Any ideas? If anybody knows a better way to set the diffs up I would love to know  Thanks
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#194
26-07-2009
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Im not 100% sure about this but I think you,ve overtightened the diffs.
With both outdrives locked with allan keys you should just about be able to turn the bevel gear. try loosening the diffs by 1/8 turn at a time seeif it improves.
__________________
My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19395
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#196
26-07-2009
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I usually set mine so that when you hold the diff in your hand, and lock the outdrives with allen drivers, you should just be able to make the diff slip. It does feel tight but it should be just about right if you can move it.
If you hold one wheel with one hand the other will turn but it may feel a bit tight or 'feel' gritty. If its attracting dirt onto the driveshafts etc. Clean the grease off them. That is what will be attracting the dirt and grit. I run mine dry and have had no problem at all. I'd also fully strip the thrustrace down (the bit with the small balls) and get all the grease off. Then re-build it and put a little les grease on. I usually put some of the grease on a small flat screw driver and just put enough grease on the plate to hold the ball bearings in place whilst I build the rest up. Mine's been pretty much bulletproof since I built it, and I've done 4 race meetings with it not being rebuilt yet. hope this helps.
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#197
28-07-2009
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Ok done all that, they are still a little noisy tho... but smooth enough.
Im having a little trouble with the front axles, they are assembled just as the manual states but with the wheel nuts done up "tight enough" its very hard to turn the wheels... my rusty has teflon washers to help with this but no sign of any on the cyber?
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#198
28-07-2009
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Yep, I noticed this problem at the weekend. My front right hand wheel was binding badly. I just loosened the wheel nut a little bit at a time until the wheel turned freely.
It was ok, and the wheel and nut stayed on fine for 3 races and it won the final. I haven't looked into the cause yet. So can't tell you why it does it. I've got a feeling that its just soft plastic on the wheels. And it doesn't need the nuts tightening up as much. Other than that, it may just need some shims adding between the bearing and the hex.
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#200
28-07-2009
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Hmm, I did think that myself, but with so little time since I bought it I didn't think that would be the cause.
I'll check later and see. I thought they would last longer than that. Did yours have the clicking noise when you turned the wheel? Maybe it is the bearing after all.
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