Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Toonz]

outer edge.

the diameter or should i say circumference, when you put
the 2 rims together

[SiR_Dave]

Originally Posted by Toonz

outer edge.

the diameter or should i say circumference, when you put
the 2 rims together

Hmmm I`ll have to get my calipers out and check this out..

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Toonz

i notice that the diameter of the 501xWE front rim is 1mm bigger than the durga front rim.

why is that so? any difference in performance?

I don't know about the 501Xwe but I thought the new rims were all the same (smaller) size. The reason the rims were made slightly smaller (not quite 1 mm!) is because they were oversized and illegal at IFMAR races.
If your 501X WE came with larger front wheels then I'm surprised by that - the new wheels are much better - they have a much tighter hex to prevent stripping out

[sim]

There are new rims and old rims? What are the part numbers?

[DCM]

just order the rims for the DB-01

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by jimmy

The rear belt looked to have very slightly rounded teeth - whilst the front looked perfect still. I also noticed a little collection of rubber around the centre bulkhead - so I assume the rear belt might be rubbing slightly tho I've not had time to check it out yet.

I think there are a couple of things going on here.

One is that I think the rear belt will rub a fair bit on the slipper plates if it is a bit slack (I have tightened my rear belt by one notch since the build and it is a lot better now). You can probably see the big black lines all over it.

Two is that I don't totally trust the small bits of screw that stick through the centre bulkhead and into the general area of the belts. I filed my screws down for this very reason.

I also share your general distrust of the kit diff halves. Seem fine on the bench but can then show signs of slipping during the race, will probably have to add some 501X diff halves to my next parts order.

[Toonz]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I don't know about the 501Xwe but I thought the new rims were all the same (smaller) size. The reason the rims were made slightly smaller (not quite 1 mm!) is because they were oversized and illegal at IFMAR races.
If your 501X WE came with larger front wheels then I'm surprised by that - the new wheels are much better - they have a much tighter hex to prevent stripping out

i don't have a 501 but i was comparing it at the shop. both the white and yellow 501 front rims are slightly bigger than the black and white durga front rims. the rear rims are the same. strange to me too.....

[Doomanic]

Has anyone got a gear ratio for a Checkpoint Money Motor, outdoors?

[sosidge]

If it is any help I was running a Blue Atlas 19T on a 19 pinion , medium sized indoor tracks. 20 pinion felt overgeared to me.

[Doomanic]

Thanks, it's a starting point.
I stuffed a 20T in there earlier (after waiting at least 30 seconds for a reply) so I'll see how it goes on Sunday.

[sim]

Toonz,
Did you take part in the TAC qualifier Singapore pre-tune up race? How did you guys get around the 17T pinion problem?

[Toonz]

yes i took part in the pre tune up and there were 4 durga and 3 darkimpact.

2 durga were running at 17t BUT the other 2 were not (you can PM me if you want to know more regarding this point). the DI were geared accordingly to their preference and were fast on the straight!

the durgas that were running at 17t were of cos slower than the DI but it has the acceleration at all corners. 17t isn't that bad on a sport tuned in terms of stock class. easy to handle and less likely to crash. oh this bug jumps well!

[Carlos69]

17th Feb my 1st run was a real d'oh-fest!
Fitted Yeah-racing 501 cvd's, 501 shocks,3-racing towers, modified 501 steering brace, Ti screw set, belt 'tensioners', slipper set, one-way, D4 serrated wheel nuts...

heat one; massive oversteer; lost a rear cv shaft....
---replaced with stock dogbones, stiffened front susp/softened rear susp, replaced oneway with stock diff.

heat two; oversteer less of an issue; rear tie rod screw undid itself (same side).

heat three; finished 3 laps down....slipper felt loose but was tightened almost all the way.

A final: travelled 50m and had no drive to the wheels
Went home.

Found out looking at the slipper exploded diagram that I'd installed the slipper plates back-to-front...."D'oh!" the run had melted a small part of the centre of the spur...I had to rub back the face of one of the slipper plates to get rid of some scoring that occured on fine sandpaper ...I think it'll be ok. Gawd !

[Spoolio]

Today at Worksop my Durga performed very poorly. My 2WD times came down and down and down and down and the Gods were smiling as I won my final. Admittedly it was the bottom one but hey, a win's a win in any language.

My times in 4WD started good and got worse and worse and worse and worse until I gave up on the 2nd lap of the bottom 4WD final. Car was literally undriveable, the rear was constantly trying to swap ends with the front under any power whatsoever which made the corners a bloody nightmare, and the straight bits in between weren't much better. As the track itself was fairly technical I just chucked it in as I couldn't see the point carrying on and dropping further and further behind - I dumped half a lap by the end of lap 1!

Got home and found out the following:

1. Rear diff rings unglued from plastic outdrives.
2. Rear diff overtightened (following earlier failure to diagnose point 1).
3. Rear camber at 0 degrees and 1 degree positive.
4. Front camber at 2 degrees and 3 degrees.
5. Using RPM ball joints as temporary front shock lower mounts is dumb.

I plan over the next week to strip and adjust the diffs now everything is bedding in but right at this very moment, I am loving my RC10 and have shoved the Durga in a corner .

[jimmy]

come over with the car next time mate and I'll sort it out for you. I didn't like the feel of the shocks at all on your car but I'm sure it'll go really well once sorted.
Shame about the rear diff, I had the same thing last week at Batley - ended up putting a 501X diff in the rear (as I told you) but I'll sort the kit one out when I get chance. the rings just broke free of the glue and spun freely on the plastic holder so the diff always slips once that happens.

but yeah, bring it over next time mate and I'll sort er' out!

[DCM]

I think I have a little problem with the rear diff and may try and get some 501X rear diff outdrives to cure it.

Otherwise, if the car is built to kit, it should go really well, the only real difference on mine is the shocks.

[Spoolio]

Cheers Jimmy, I'll take you up on the offer at the next round. I'll chip away at it over the next few days anyway to see if I can get it something like at should be - at least then I'll have a decent base setting to work from.

[Blakeyx]

Hi guys

Some of you may have already seen it but I have my Durga up for sale (its in the for sale section) I am selling it for £150 but if anyone from here wants it I will do it for £135, just quote your username.

Not bad, only £5 over the UK price and it is all setup ready for indoor running for the extras that have been put on it see the other thread.

[A.J. Gee]

Do any of you guys know if the 3racing aluminum wing mount for the 501x, will be suitable for the Durga?

[SiR_Dave]

Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave

Do any of you guys know if the 3racing aluminum wing mount for the 501x, will be suitable for the Durga?

Yes it fits.. but you have to do a little moding of the rear shock tower
Here are the areas you have to mod both sides just need a little triming..