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#1
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as the topic say, anyone got some hints what i can do to improve on-power steering, indoor hightraction conditions.. i think of moving camber links and so on but i dont know where to start.
i run 35wt with lightgreen springs in the front and 30wt and darkgreen in the back, 25degrees castor and swaybar at the back.. otherwise ist pretty much stock setup. |
#2
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do you have any lead in the front? most people run about 30g of lead in the nose of the car. Try it, it will transform it!
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#3
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no extra weights at all.. adi cant see where i should put it
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#4
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i placed as much as possible under/over the steering rack, and then 5g either side of the servo at the front of the chassis
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#5
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Indoors on carpet i ran orange springs front and green rear. Also with the same amount of weight fitted as Jim.
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#6
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hmm i will try to get hold of some orange springs then.. and maybe look at the weight placements.
any of you tried with anti-squat? i was thinking of cut some off the brace that is at the back of the battery tunnel and then put some spacers under the front a-arm bracket. oh, and i also run the battery (5cell) in the most forward position |
#7
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you won't want to increase the rear antisquat if you are racing indoors on carpet.
No wonder you have understeer if you are running 5 cell and no lead! Definitely try 30g in the nose and see if that helps, then try the softer spring if you still need more.
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#8
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You also need 30' caster on the front bulk head. Also make sure you have no washers under the front inner camber link ball stud.
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#9
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thanks for the tips
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#10
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On mine I have as much lead as you can get inside the front bulkhead and lead under the rack and by the servo as the otehrs have mentioned, about 50g in total.
Indoors on carpet ..... with Kyosho springs it will be Dark Green rears and Yellow fronts. Run the front camber link at it's longest overall setting with 3mm of spacing under the inner ball studs. set camber at -1.5 deg for carpet. Rear link mid on bulkhead, 3mm under ballstud, inner on hub if it's a tight - hair-pin style track and outer if not .... 2mm under outer ballstud. set camber at -1.5 deg for carpet. 2c pistons in the front with 35wt oil and 2b pistons in the rear with 30wt. Castor well I run 25deg everywhere but I'm odd like that ... Woody's suggestion of 30 will be easier to get on with for most. If it's all carpet then run the stock anti-squat ... if there is slippy stuff in there too you may find that reducing the anti-squat by turning the front one of the rear pivot blocks upside down with make the car more progressive on the transisions. Run the cells forward as well. |
#11
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On the subject of steering, what adjustments can I make to reduce turn-in on a fairly low grip dirt track?
This is the first 2wd I've had where I have too much turn-in so I'd like to tame the steering down a bit when turning into corners.
__________________
Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#12
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move the shocks out on the wishbones, stiffen the front spring, remove any lead in the nose. put a couple of washers under the inside camberlink ball stud.
possibly soften the rear end also.
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#13
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I slightly disagree with Jim.
I would suggest keeping the washers under the inside front ballstud and moving the inner ballstud out at the inner end (shorter link). That will have a little more effect in the desired direction without compromising the corner exit steering too much. A slight increase in front shock oil weight will help slow the tranission during sharp changes of direction also, just don't go so far as to over-damp from front end or else the car will fell very sluggish and loose all it's sparkle |
#14
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what about droop limiters? theese tracks have only carpet and no slippery parts
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#15
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Keep the front rear droop balance as you would for off road but limit the wheel down-travel by something in the order of 5mm and you'll be close so long as there are no big jumps in there.
Actually ... when you say carpet you do mean indoor surface don't you? |
#16
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yea of course
![]() ![]() its touringcar tracks with temporarily build jumps.. we are regulated to run losi taper pin rearwheels and free of choise ribbed frontwheels with or without adeshives as we want |
#17
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I must say the changes i could try today made THE difference
![]() ![]() next time im not gonna forget my shockoils at home so i can try the other pistons too ![]() thanks for your help ![]() |
#18
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I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to know wht changes you made and what the magnitude of the effect were.....
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#19
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i did set the camberlinks at you said and put the shock absorbers on inner hole on shocktower
i also soften the slipper a bit. |
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