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#1
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Is there a way to get away from using these things, preferably with something metal?
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...e-Yokes/Detail They are what attaches to the front axle. At the rate I'm breaking these plastic pieces of **** it's going to cost me 10 dollars for every battery pack I put through my XX-4. Thanks guys! Chris
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#2
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cvd's ??? and are you using a front one way if so that would exsplain it.
A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
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#3
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get some MIP CVD's or Losi LCD's those things could barely cope with the power outputs when the car came out 10yr ago never mind the power now
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#4
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I'm running a 18 year old motor, lol. They're breaking on landing, when one wheel touches down before the other, I think. Hard to tell.
No front one way. In what way does that make a difference?
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#5
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MIP's website doesn't work.
Horizon is a dealer for them, so I searched their site, and all I found was this. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=MIP1200 Those look like rears to me. Anyone know if they are?
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#6
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yea there rears front sare available easily just need to find a shop that stocks them
the part number is A9966 A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
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#7
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This is 9966
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA9966 Says XXX-4 rear. Does that mean the XXX-4 rears go on the front of the XX-4?
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#8
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No
I wrote it wrong i think it try 9967 A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
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#9
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Ah. thanks!
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#10
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As everyone has said, the stock front UJ's are junk, mine lasted 2 corners with a one way in when I tried them just for the hell of it. You also need to change wheel bearings when you go to CVD's from the stupid thin ones on the UJ's to 'regular' sturdy wheel bearings.
I recomend CVD's over LCD's for ultimate reliability!
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Nortech is ACE! |
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#11
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You lot are all too rough! I've had mine in for nearly 18months without breakages running LRP quantum 2 with 10 single and double motors!
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#12
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Any chance you could point me at the bearings I need, Dan? I'm not sure which way they need to be thicker
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#13
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They are the same as the rear wheel bearings 3/16 x 3/8 Losi part number A6916
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Xray, Orca, 1UP Racing, Avid, X Factory UK, RC Disco, Hudy, RichPaint, RDT products, Screwz4rc http://www.screwz4rc.co.uk My Trader Feedback - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=tyreman
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#14
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thanks!
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#15
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Yes they do break.But i think it is do to landing on power over big jumps.land the car on a roll then punch,notland and punch it that is what breaks them!
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Orion SLP. Novak. LRP. AE. Airtronics. JConcepts. Xcelorin Brushless Systems... Is what these race cars are powered by! Brian Mincks: |
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#16
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So, I have 2 choices. I can either buy better ones and go fast, or keep running the same crappy ones and drive like an old lady. Yeah, I think I'll choose the way that allows me to go fast
Oh, and they were breaking under braking, not under acceleration.
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
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#17
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HVAC25000,IM WITH YOU THEIR THOUGH I WILL BE PURCHASING THEM ALL THE WAY AROUND ON THE XX-4.ALSO BE PUTTING SOME ON THE CR AS WELL!
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Orion SLP. Novak. LRP. AE. Airtronics. JConcepts. Xcelorin Brushless Systems... Is what these race cars are powered by! Brian Mincks: |
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