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  #4321  
Old 04-10-2013
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Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
Whats the advantage of it being three piece if there is no kick-up?
You could give obe or two degrees of kick up with a minor mod to the topdeck. But youll need an alloy front plate like the zxs to make it work. Ive redesigned so less flex and more rigid giving strength where the zxs lacked. Pics to follow
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  #4322  
Old 06-10-2013
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Update with the chassis fitted. My design on the Lipo tray sides were slightly wrong so am getting remade but looking good so far
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Chassis 1.jpg (54.2 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 2.jpg (54.8 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 3.jpg (59.8 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 4.jpg (36.3 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 5.jpg (35.2 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 6.jpg (62.1 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg Slipper.jpg (230.6 KB, 51 views)
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  #4323  
Old 07-10-2013
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Looks great
I notice you are still running the heatsink motor plate, do you plan to go to the carbon one that you recently designed?

Also the four gearbox holes appear to not be needed with the open gearbox or do you have a future use in mind for those holes?
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  #4324  
Old 07-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
Looks great
I notice you are still running the heatsink motor plate, do you plan to go to the carbon one that you recently designed?

Also the four gearbox holes appear to not be needed with the open gearbox or do you have a future use in mind for those holes?
It was an over sight, i forgot to remove from my drawings, but tbh it wont make a difference. Also ive gone and done it again, ive designed the tensioner for the rear plastic gearbox and just needs a little tweak and figuring out on where to get bits and pieces and game on im selling with manual.
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  #4325  
Old 09-10-2013
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Ok, well Im happy with the tub so is now available to buy. You will need to do a couple of things first before buying from Fibrelyte.

1. Choose your chassis design from the designs that are already on the website. Or go for a modded design and you can opt for no cell holes and adding a lipo tray which ive already designed etc etc and the list goes on but be warned get it correct before ordering as once you have decided on what you want and something isnt correct but was cut to your specification then the fault lies with you.

2. Decide on the sidewall height, me I think 20mm is high enough but am unsure on the height used on ComCom and Wasp chassis when they were sold so if there is a preference find out first, otherwise 20mm is perfect as per my recent pictures.

3. Round off the end side walls at the rear as this aides in taking the gearcover off.

4. Choose the weave you want, I tried the same weave asthe top deck and shock towers to get a matching effect.

5. If you require the bottom of the chassis to be as shiney as the inner then you will need to do this yourself as its not cost effective for Fibrelyte to do, so you will need some fine sand paper and time but have been advised dont over do it.

Good luck
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  #4326  
Old 09-10-2013
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How tall were the sides on the original broken chassis that you used to make the mould?
How tall were the sides when you first got the new tub cut?

I did some measurements on my vintage tub here and the sides are more like 25mm tall though its hard to tell because the edges of the tub are curved so need to confirm where the measurement is being taken from for the height, we probably need to get a definitive height and then fibrelyte only make it one way rather than people having to specify
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  #4327  
Old 11-10-2013
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Lipo tray fitted with two central blocks as I have six cell hole brass plates and two brass plates ontop so needed higher to make sure Lipo doesnt move. also I opted for a 4mm side wall on the lipo trays instead of 2mm due to the brass plates. Lipo slots in like a dream
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  #4328  
Old 11-10-2013
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Default Lipo tray picture

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  #4329  
Old 12-10-2013
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hi, anyone remember that site where you could buy gears, i remember looking on there for alloy replacements for the la-11 but now i need something for another car i cant remember the site name, thanks
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  #4330  
Old 12-10-2013
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Sorry mate no idea, do a search on here for alloy gears and see what comes up
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  #4331  
Old 12-10-2013
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went back to page 100 and searched every page upwards and found it on page 122

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cPath=24_153_157
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  #4332  
Old 13-10-2013
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The pulley sidewalls do come off so youll need a glue capable of holding them on. Also im going to sell a tensioner for the rear gearbox in a couple of weeks
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  #4333  
Old 13-10-2013
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OK guys need some help with something which is doing my head in.
I have LA231-02 axles and VZW010 hexes and it all goes together fine but when I tighten the wheel nut the bearings bind. I am using the hole for the pin which gives the most clearance to the bearing. Oosh had the same parts on his car in the pics he posted so I can't see why this shouldn't work ????

Damn annoying I'm getting so close to being able to get this mega-mid on four wheels
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  #4334  
Old 13-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
OK guys need some help with something which is doing my head in.
I have LA231-02 axles and VZW010 hexes and it all goes together fine but when I tighten the wheel nut the bearings bind. I am using the hole for the pin which gives the most clearance to the bearing. Oosh had the same parts on his car in the pics he posted so I can't see why this shouldn't work ????

Damn annoying I'm getting so close to being able to get this mega-mid on four wheels
Dan,

Have you any spacers between the bearing or thin washers on between the axle and bearing on both sides? If so thats your problem
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  #4335  
Old 13-10-2013
Naushad Naushad is offline
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Check out jet hobby Hong Kong too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rondoolaa View Post
went back to page 100 and searched every page upwards and found it on page 122

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cPath=24_153_157
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  #4336  
Old 13-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Dan,

Have you any spacers between the bearing or thin washers on between the axle and bearing on both sides? If so thats your problem
Nope, no spacers anywhere. Maybe Oosh machined the inner face to give it clearance against the bearing
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  #4337  
Old 13-10-2013
Crashtest33 Crashtest33 is offline
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James, just a quick one. Rcq.se still have the hyper clutch. My ZX-R mk-ii runner only has the standard drive gear. What are the benefits of LAW-12 over Standard drive?
Nick
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  #4338  
Old 14-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashtest33 View Post
James, just a quick one. Rcq.se still have the hyper clutch. My ZX-R mk-ii runner only has the standard drive gear. What are the benefits of LAW-12 over Standard drive?
Nick
Its gives better drive compared to the others and maintaining the car afterwards is easier as all you need do to replace a spur is unscrew two screws rather than having to reset your slipper
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  #4339  
Old 14-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
OK guys need some help with something which is doing my head in.
I have LA231-02 axles and VZW010 hexes and it all goes together fine but when I tighten the wheel nut the bearings bind. I am using the hole for the pin which gives the most clearance to the bearing. Oosh had the same parts on his car in the pics he posted so I can't see why this shouldn't work ????

Damn annoying I'm getting so close to being able to get this mega-mid on four wheels
Dan,

I need to see how the uj hits the bearing plus it all together to get an idea
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answer-rc.com/uk/en/
Answer UK team driver
Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis
Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #4340  
Old 16-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Dan,

I need to see how the uj hits the bearing plus it all together to get an idea
The only pic I have at the moment is this one, there isn't anything fancy going on, just the bearings, the CDV and the hexes, no shims at all
I'm going to try filing the back of the hexes on the weekend, I don't really have anything else that I can do

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