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#1
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So who is running stock RB6 arms on the rear of the car and which of you are running RB5/ZX5 style flat rear arms? Which do you prefer and how does it change the cars handling?
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#2
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Hi, i am running all stock on my RB6, last weekend i was racing in a national cup here in Norway on a very though track with clay compund, but i would rather say it was like concrete. Not a single part cracked even if i had some hard hits. At my local track we have astro turf. My buggy handles really good, i wouldnt change a thing. The only weak point i have ond is the rear hubs. This is my history of destroyed parts on my RB6. 2 rear hubs, 1 rear suspension arm. And i have driven about 70-80 batteries with it, so i am very satisfied with the buggy
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#3
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I run on medium to high grip astro with my rb6 and I run the UM521-1 rear arms. The car is flatter round the corners, it doesn't want to tuck under as much on initial turn in. I like these arms better for med/high grip but would go back to the kit arms if the grip was low as I'd be wanting the rear to dig in if you know what I mean?
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#4
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Same here, RB5 on high grip and stock arms on RM and low grip.
Got to check both on wet astro, the car is great on those conditions but hopefully didn't have to run a full race on wet so I kept the RB5 ones (I bet the stock ones will be better as they seemed to let the car have more traction). |
#5
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I only use the stock ones, and our astro turf has very high grip when its dry, our long straight is 50 meters with a high speed corner at the end, im always able to keep inside lane in high speed with stock arms. But i definitive want to try the flat arms to see if its even better
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#6
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Coming from the DB1 I was happy to find a part of its amazing rotation on corners with the flat arms but the stock ones are very good indeed.
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#7
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Hi, does anyone know if the flat arms do fit with this hubs ?
KYOUMW704-05 Kyosho V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set (.5°) RB6/ZX/RT/SC |
#8
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Yes, they fit ok
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#9
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were running the flat rear wishbones and alloy hubs all fit fine, takes away a little bit of adjustment from the car IE wheel base,but all is fine and so far much better than std kit arms,
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#10
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Remember if you plan on running the 521-1 arms you will need the outer suspension shafts (LA229) also.
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#11
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Or you could just use a reamer and slightly enlarge wishbones holes to M3 (at one end) and fit RB6 pins with nylstop (with 2mm outside on each corner).
Less slop. |
#12
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Does anyone know where I can get these outer suspension shafts from looked all over the place for them, have they changed part number maybe? Would love to give the RB5 rear arms a go.
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#13
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk/new-pr...51ca4c-details
You'll need 2 small button head screws same as the ones that hold the pins in the front wishbones, not sure on the size or part number for these though. |
#14
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Just drill or ream out the closed hole and use the RB6 outer hinge pins with 2mm plastic spacers behind all 4 of the nuts ... simple & cheap
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#15
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That's what I did and it works nicely (and less slop in the long run).
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#16
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You also get less breakage as the RB6 hinge pin assembly holds the arm ends together.
__________________
Schumacher KF | K1 Aero | RWS RZ6R |MiniZ MR-03 | Orion R10 esc | LRP motors | Orion 90c lipos Rusti Design - Awesome custom stickers and cool stuff My trader feedback |
#17
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#18
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![]() ![]() In 3 years running Kyosho cars, I believe I never broke a rear arm, that shows how strong they are! I also broke the hinge pin holder the same way as you on my MCS, so you are not alone on that one ![]()
__________________
Schumacher KF | K1 Aero | RWS RZ6R |MiniZ MR-03 | Orion R10 esc | LRP motors | Orion 90c lipos Rusti Design - Awesome custom stickers and cool stuff My trader feedback |
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