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#101
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Also with the design of the crown gear some of the grease on the balls/plates will get thrown out onto the teeth with use. You'll find after you've run it a bit the grease finds it's way onto the teeth anyway
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#102
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Right. Kids are now in bed. Just got to wrap up some final pressies for the big day then I should have a couple of hours free. Has anyone got some advice for bits I will come across further down the line with the build. Did I make a decent choice with the B44.2 or should I have got something else. I mean, it looks decent enough to me but then again this is a bit new to me 1/10 buggies.
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#103
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you will not be disapointed in the slightest
the only thing i would take care with is the small rubber o rings for the shock caps i found if i used a driver it would pop out too easily so i use the supplied allen keys i found it a little easier to seat it snug like the manual says. other than that enjoy. stu |
#104
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Also, seems like some of the front hingepin holders werent threaded properly from the factory. The retaining screws wouldnt go fully home on mine, but close enough, with threadlock of course.
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__________________________ TLR 22 B44.2 |
#105
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What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.
Any help would be great. |
#106
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#107
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Futaba bls551
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proracing Moss Models Associated Reedy DJ KIRKY |
#108
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#109
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Last time I fitted a Savox in a 44 I needed to take a small amount off the end of the steering bellcrank, only a couple of mm's from the bottom edge and it fitted fine after that.
I currently run an AE XP1015 in mine and it goes in with no fettling. |
#110
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Thanks for the replies. Dont fancy taking a dremel to a new savox servo so may keep it to one side for another rc. Can anyone recommend the cheapest place to get the ae xp1015. Cheers.
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#111
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You will need to Dremel down the section where the sticker is Refit and retry. Or trim down the bellcrank that mr Lowe has advised you to do or both! Or buy another servo! Cml have the associated one I mentioned and it works fine. Not sure on other servos sorry Gaz
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#112
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Just had a quick look and it looks like I could get away with dremelling the smallest amount off the bellcrank arm and run the servo with no spacers, so all is not lost. Should have read up before choosing a servo that is a problem to fit. Oh well. You live and learn. Thanks for all your help guys.
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#113
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Been reading up on rctech thread for the B44.2 and some of the guys are running a capacitor direct to the rx as they say that the savox servos are a bit power hungry. Does this sound right.
Also gonna get some tyres on order. Been told schumacher mini spikes silver for wet and yellow for dry with answer rc blue medium inserts with low profile cut staggers for front silver and yellow. Does this sound correct. Sticking with schumacher as they are the control tyre for racing. Motor and esc I can't make my mind up between the orion vortex with rs10 esc or the tekin gen2 motor and r10 pro esc. So any help there would also be appreciated. Sorry for all of the questions. I hate being a noobie at this. Lol. |
#114
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Yet more questions. Lol. What spares should I carry in my box for car and where do you guys get your screws. Is there somewhere to order them cheaply in bulk or do you all order direct associated replacements. Imperial seems harder to find.
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#115
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Staggers are for 2wd front not 4wd Stick to mini spikes Green normally in wet depending on surface Silvers do work though try Both Yellow for dry yes or greens depending on surface again Schumacher arnt a controller tyre unless your doing certain meetings! If your a club or regional driver you should be able to use any! Speedo and motor wise...Lrp flow and a reedy sonic motor will be good! Spares wise...how good are you at driving? If your a beginner a spare car haha Only joking! Spares wise you need ideally are below! Screws wise there are lots if options but I normally order packets of originals! You will only need the countersunk ones potentially that are mainly used throughout the car! Spares- Front arms Rear arms Front and rear tower Steering rack Diff gears Ball cups Shock rod ends Front shock shafts Anymore help? Ordering wise cml distribution have have a very good shop online! Gaz
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#116
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Get some front A arms, front bulkhead, front castor blocks and front steering knuckles. Pretty much the only things I've ever broken on my 44.1 so I imagine it will be the same. ![]() Edit, I did brake a shock shaft other week but first time in 8 months I have. |
#117
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#118
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Thanks for all your help guys. One last question (for now anyway, lol). Can anyone recommend a pinion set or what pinions to get in what sizes ie 48dp or 64dp and is it worth buying a set etc. Thanks again.
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#119
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48dp and I have used a 25 with a 10.5 motor and currently 23 with a 7.5 so that could be a guide for you....but it will really ultimately depend on the track
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#120
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Im usually using between 17t and 21t depending on the size/speed of the track. |
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