Kyosho RB6 thread

[jonathan may]

What amount of rear toe-in does it have kit standard

[adam_u]

3 deg

[jonathan may]

new to kyosho cars how is it adjusted hubs or brace ?

[RogerM]

Currently only option is to adjust with hubs ....

[RogerM]

Originally Posted by danmurphy

Should there be an optional plastic RF wide suspension mount on the parts tree for the mid motor config? Or do I need to buy the alloy option mount to reduce my rear toe in?

Kit parts for mid motor are the wide spec already, if you want to reduce rear toe use the option hubs mounted on the opposite sides to marked.

[danmurphy]

Originally Posted by RogerM

Kit parts for mid motor are the wide spec already, if you want to reduce rear toe use the option hubs mounted on the opposite sides to marked.

Thanks for the info Roger, I was about to order the RF wide mount

[RogerM]

The ali mount is a good upgrade but certainly not necesary with the RB6

[bigred5765]

rodger what happens if you use the thin brkt up front and wide rear and vice versa

[RogerM]

There is no narrow rear mount for the mid motorr, using the narrow rf block would give you a lot of extra rear toe in, will have to check my notes but I think 1.5deg extra.

[bigred5765]

so giving 4.5 degree toe on the rear sounds OK to me think we will try it,
i did fit the small front brkt just to see but didn't run it, and yeah i know its front the rear motor car but it is almost identical just thinner,

[pip122872]

hi guys i am not a regular on this forum but i am a kyosho driver through and through. i have been making some tools for kyosho cars for a couple months now and would love to share them with as many kyosho drivers as possible. The first tool is a kyosho shock tool for removing the shock cartridge, its a great replacement for the one that comes with the kit and strips out easly. It costs $12 in the u.s and 15 overseas. the second tool s a turn buckle wrench that has three sizes on it. the one side has 2 sizes in it that fit the kyosho turnbuckles as well as the lundsford and ae turnbuckle. it will also fit durangos and any car with a 4mm turmbuckle. the other side is 5.5mm and fits all kyosho 10th scale trucks, the losi 4wd sc and some 8th scale vehicles This wrench is $17 in the u.s. and $19 for over seas. if any of you are interested please email me at [email protected] as i am not always on the forums. thank you for your time and i hope to be able to provide some of you some great tools..

[JustARcFan]

At this point i'm not really that convinced about the RB6.
The quality is of course perfect, like all Kyosho cars but I prefer the DB1.

Yesterday I had some free time so had a look at the weight distribution in MM. About measuring (and re-measuring) I found out that the front to rear ratio is 59% rear and 41% front?????
Talking about a nose heavy car!

My electric set up was like most of you with a LP servo, receiver at the back of the servo, saddle pack and the esc just in front of the motor.

Re-did all the wires (with 14awg), managed to slide the saddles 6mm more in the rear, put the receiver at the side in the back.
Like this i saved 16gr in the front and the weight bias is now 62,5 / 37,5.

Didn't had the chance to test it like this but I'm sure it's going to be better.
I'm also going to try a stubby lipo, like this the car will be +/- 80gr lighter and around 63,5%.

Cheers

[danmurphy]

If you want more rear bias then maybe you should be running rear motor? I'm quite impressed with the weight balance of the car

[tomtom]

After a few months I'm very pleased with mine, especially the overall balance and stability so I wouldn't worry about weight bias that much.

The DB1 is on another league, I totally understand you prefer it over your RB6 as I feel the same yet for my driving skills the RB6 might be easier to run lap after lap and could be set to run good on almost any track.

I will keep both and choose the one to race depending on track and mood. At some point I may choose one and race but the choice today is a hard one.

[RogerM]

The forward weight distribution is what makes the RB6 such a nice car to drive IMHO.
Still loving mine on proper off-road tracks, I massively let the car down indoors but can't blame the car for that!

[Fabs]

Personally I've always ran the car with all the electronics behind the short servo, and the cells at the back. When I built the car both my servo and speedo wires were too short to have it any other way.

Am now running shorty in the same way, and after a few tweaks to the setup I can honestly say it's far better than any DB1 I've tried. In fact I've hated the way the DB1 handles, it's defo not a car for me.

[tomtom]

You're already fast Fabs !

And your RB5 front end really help to tame the DB agressive feel.
You were right once again

Thanks for your support at our last race !

[Fabs]

Aye, but I felt the DB1 was a car to drive "on throttle", it doesn't like to be off power. At least yours didn't! So I felt to be fast, I would have to keep a small amount of throttle through the corner, or it would lose all corner speed. I prefer when a car carries its corner speed "naturally" if you see what I mean?

RB5 front bulkhead and arms makes for a much more predictable front end. Even on the MCS I felt the WC front end was a bit too agressive, but the MCS kinda needed it, whereas on the DB1 it makes the car evil.

No worries mate, I always help if I can.

[dirkdiggler]

A young Marshall kindly stood on my rb6 today
and snapped a rear shock shaft ending my day.
I now find that je don't have any in stock or rb5
Or zx5.
Any other alternatives out there that fit?

[Rich D]

Kev and Ana have stock and always send parts out quickly.

Dont worry about the RB5/ZX5 listing, the RB6 shares the same rear 50mm shafts.

http://www.the-pred.co.uk/zencart/in...roducts_id=434