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  #41  
Old 15-11-2012
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Fibre-lyte are close to finishing my custom pieces, I'll post pics when I get them
I'd love to see a pic of the chassis you got
You should be able to buy some double sided tape easily enough, though you may have to cut it down to the width you need.
I am in the same boat and need to find some for my other two Mid builds
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  #42  
Old 15-11-2012
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Thanks for the tip. I have found a tape from Team Associated that might work. Just have to cut it properly as you said.
http://www.hobbycity.se/product.php?id_product=488

And here is the chassis from fibre-lyte. Can't find a better substitute


Chassis for Turbo Optima Mid Special
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  #43  
Old 15-11-2012
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That looks really nice, can't wait got get my stuff now!
Thanks for the link to that tape
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  #44  
Old 28-11-2012
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Got the tape and it's thin and black, just like the original. It's not long enough though so one have to cut two peaces and add them together to the correct length.

Okay, so I took a photo of the ball diff we talked about before. Maybe you see in this picture if has the wider spacer? I don't have anything to compare to. Just tell me if I need to measure something.

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  #45  
Old 28-11-2012
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I will be able to tell from a pic however the spacer I need to see is on the belt drive side which is obscured in that pic, if you flip it 180 or better sill just 90 so I can see what is sitting behind the bearing on the side the belt runs on that would be great
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  #46  
Old 08-12-2012
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I managed to make a little more progress recently.

Starting off with these guys





I spent a while filing away the extra material off the bellcranks rather than just cutting it off, and then I sanded the edges too, it nearly looks like the pieces were actually made that way to start with



Then assembled all the bits, I forgot how tight the servo saver was!





You can probably see the bellcranks are not sitting parallel because someone forgot to shorten the two rod ends before assembly, I promptly fixed that later on.
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  #47  
Old 08-12-2012
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The cap screws I ordered finally turned up



Which meant that I could now install these guys



Seeing as they were on the same blister pack as the steering parts, I decided to use the plastic nuts for the shocks rather than deviate from the correct parts and use nyloc nuts. I don't mind the way they look so they will probably stay on.













I made a start on assembling these bits but ran out of time, I'll pick things up again shortly. I've been temporarily distracted by another project I have started ...

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  #48  
Old 08-12-2012
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Nice progress of a superb build

I used those black plastic nuts too. Those golds are truly key parts of Kyosho vintage race cars.

Sorry that I haven't took a new picture of the ball diff. I'll upload it tomorrow (editing the above post just so I don't hi-jack your thread even more)

Keep the pics coming!
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  #49  
Old 08-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j0pp3 View Post
Nice progress of a superb build

I used those black plastic nuts too. Those golds are truly key parts of Kyosho vintage race cars.

Sorry that I haven't took a new picture of the ball diff. I'll upload it tomorrow (editing the above post just so I don't hi-jack your thread even more)

Keep the pics coming!
Thanks. I've been enjoying the build and in a way I'm happy for it to draw out a little. No worries on the ball diff. I recently received a parts lot as part of my next project and it turns out I may have the spacer I need in that collection of parts. I'm actually polishing and anodising blue a set of beat up golds for my ZX. I also have some real nice medium and shorts which I will sell soon, once I do a bit of a stocktake.
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  #50  
Old 30-12-2012
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Hi mate, any further progress on the TOMS? It's looking very nice so far.

I have an original one myself that I bought as a roller minus body and wheels from a guy in Singapore (I think), wasn't cheap.


Keith
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  #51  
Old 30-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithrc View Post
Hi mate, any further progress on the TOMS? It's looking very nice so far.

I have an original one myself that I bought as a roller minus body and wheels from a guy in Singapore (I think), wasn't cheap.


Keith
Very apt timing as I have been working on it today. I'll post an update in a few hours. Would love to see some pics of yours.
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  #52  
Old 30-12-2012
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Managed to make some more progress today, hoping to have it finished pretty soon.

So, picking up where I left off last time I assembled and fitted the rear wing mount





Then all of these


Were pieced together to make these



Then these likewise were pieced together



To make these



Then it was time to get these guys out





along with these



To get things up to this stage







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  #53  
Old 30-12-2012
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I could have left it there for now but decided to continue with these plastic parts



And while I was at it I also put the wheels on













I would have at least gotten the upper deck on too but I am waiting on an OT-33 ball for the steering bellcranks and it wont be possible to install this with the upper deck on.
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  #54  
Old 30-12-2012
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I must be soo old ! People are restoring car's now that i used to race in the late to early nineties!

I totally forgot about the Long wheelbase kit for the Mid Optima.

I used to run a short wheel Turbo Optima Mid , raced this with great result's.

Never went long wheel base as i loved the chuckability of the Original Mid Optima.

My good friend still own's his Long Wheelbase Optima , opening his pitbox is like a timewarp.

Epic build by the way , i allways loved the old yellow holed wheels.

Any one looking for a Option House one way for there Optima ? I have a new one minus the packet.
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  #55  
Old 30-12-2012
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Is the one way for a belt driven or chain driven Optima?

I need to get some paint for this, what is the correct white for it or any suggestions appreciated

I also need to get up to speed on cutting and painting, anyone got any links for recommended reading?
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  #56  
Old 30-12-2012
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You're making good progress and it's looking great. I see you're in Australia too, where abouts are you?

I'll do a thread of my Mids soon and post pics of mine.


Keith
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  #57  
Old 30-12-2012
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Awesome work mate!

Looks like you have the correct yellow tone on your wheels. You bastard

The correct color for a perfectionist is probably the white color that Kyosho sold back then:
KYO2230W - POLYCA COLOR WHITE

I have no idea if that is possible to find today.

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  #58  
Old 30-12-2012
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I thought the wheels looked a bit different to the usual yellow ones. Wasn't sure if it was just how it showed up in the pic or what. Maybe Kyosho did the fluro yellow wheels for the people that bought the TOMS conversion kit?


Keith
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  #59  
Old 01-01-2013
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I think its just that the wheels were the dull color when they were first made and the color is different later on. Thats the case with the yellow wheels for the Lazer ZX-R and Triumph, the original ones from the kit are dull yellow but if you buy them now they are the brighter yellow. I have never seen the rears in the brighter yellow, only the fronts, of which I have a pair I need to sell
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  #60  
Old 05-01-2013
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I managed to make a little more progress on the build.
Now all that is left is the Lexan pieces really, i.e. belt and spur gear covers, and body undertray and wing.
Whats the best way to trim the motor cover, scissors or knife, I was thinking of bolting it to a spare motor plate and then trimming around with a razor blade?
I don't know how far I will go with electrics for it but I do have a brand new Kyosho Red SCR saddle pack battery and I also have what I think is the perfect motor for this buggy, can anyone guess what that might be?













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