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#1
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Hi People
I've got myself a buggy for the first time and was wondering what essentials I need for a Team C TC02C Cheers Rob |
#2
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Good thing to get would be , spare set of wishbones all round and the complete upper and lower front nose assembly. Just in case. So far i broke 2 front wishbones in the same evening but not the nose yet, but thats was me crashing into the wall.So it was the same side but luckily the wishbones are reversable side to side.. Oh and spare wheels and tyre choice.
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#3
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I brought the alloy castor blocks as the plastic ones are the weakest thing on the car and front wishbones apart from that I've known nothing else that anyone else has broke as its a very strong personally. I broke nothing at all and not for the want off trying oh it may well be worth while putting ceramic diff balls in as they will last for ages and makes the diff super smooth
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#4
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I would say c hubs, make sure you pre thread them and using a longer ballstud and nut. There's more info in the team c section.
Other than that. Rear shock tower would be useful. I snapped two in quick succession but its been good for a fair few months. I've never done a wishbone but useful to have. I did manage to break a front shock tower the weekend which is rare on a 2wd. I think it was the bad landing followed by the 10m roll that did it. Other than that you may break the front nose but you can buy the uprated chassis plates with the extra screw in. The cars fairly tough (apart from the c hubs). I've given mine some serious grief and its come out of most things. |
#5
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you already have spare arms, shock towers, cvds, top nose plate and blitz c hubs, hubs and front axles
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#6
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As said, ceramic (3/32") diff balls, & i use these diff rings:
http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/XR305082.html Uprated nylon idler gears (i use Pt No. AR28T) I somehow broke 2 front axles in 2 races (Ansmann Pt No. 125000441/Team C Pt No. T02042) Front chassis plate (125000407/T02008) can break. I've broken a couple of rear hub carriers too (125000412/T02013) It's much easier to (& cheaper) to not crash/get crashed into & you will be fine ![]()
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TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/ |
#7
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In 8 months I have broke two front lower chassis/kick ups, one front shock tower, a servo horn and bent one rear shock shaft.
Still on the kit idlers and spur. Nice things to have are the 30 deg front c hubs for extra steering, one of the alloy or brass front arm mounts for some extra weight up front, and the alloy rear arm mounts so you can add some extra rear toe if things are slippery. |
#8
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I've broken nothing at all in 3 months of driving on a very tight indoor track including one incident when my front bumper caught on a loose nail from a broken ramp which grabbed the front bumper, and flung the car, spinning wildly about 12 foot up into the air before crashing down lol.
But yes I would say ally c hubs are a necessity, apart from that just general sticky out bits like wishbones that can be vulnerable in a bad, or unlucky crash. It's by far the strongest car I've ever raced.
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John Jones --SMD--INSIDE LINE MODELS--PR RACING UK-- My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79696 |
#9
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Rob have you brought Wills? Get yourself down bridgford on saturday!!
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Robert Jaques, Schumacher Racing KC, K2. Team Associated SC5M "The Japanese Sniper" Team Autocare & Cycles |
#10
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#11
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Cheers Everyone for the stella advice extremely helpful! |
#12
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#13
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Never cheated rob, you have all those bits already and a spare set of ceramic diff balls, nothing to worry about, I only broke it when it was a rat, then my driving improves and I just broke robs
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