Ball Diff dex 210 !!!

[jonathan may]

when i had a 210 i used a E clip

[cigbunt]

flat up, get you driver in there to open the clip...

when testing the diff... dont put so much force else it will pop out....

its fine if you dont over tighten

[jkclifford]

Give the circlip groove a good scrath out with one of those dentist hook things, helped mine, seems like the black hard coating fills it up a bit.

[DanW]

Originally Posted by eldridge_racing

well ive tried it both ways now n still wont work lol *sighs*

Your not alone with 210 ball dif issues.

I race on a very high grip fast track so drive train takes some real abuse and I've had similar bother with the diff.

I've done all the cleaning of parts, I've used superior aftermarket thrust race and circlip etc and still had troubles.

One thing I've found is the T-nut is very poor. The bore of the plastic part is too tight, so it feels like the diff screw is tight... When its not its just struggling to thread through the plastic. I ran a tap through a T-nut so I could try the screw only feeling the tightening of the diff. With a free T nut I realised the diff could be set properly (but will slack off inservice becaue the thread is to free) . If you look to a used normal t-nut the metal threaded part is quite weak and the force from the screw tapping into the plastic deforms the threads somewhat. So my solution has been to take a new T-nut and just run a starter tap into the plastic part to help the screw tap its way in.

a spring that is cut square helps as previuosly mentioned. I ended up buying several and picking the best looking spring.

Eventually I seemed to get a diff that seems to last out, but I was always catious and fearing it would give up so I went to a gear diff. I prefer the handling of the ball diff but run gear diff for piece of mind I'm not going to spend all day taking the diff in and out.

I've built many different ball diffs over 20years and the 210 is by far the worst.

[jkclifford]

Originally Posted by DanW

I've built many different ball diffs over 20years and the 210 is by far the worst.

Does let the bomb proof Durango saying down a bit. TD stuff takes some proper abuse and keeps coming back for more, but that diff, its too heavily reliant on that fragile clip.

[AfroP]

Originally Posted by jkclifford

Does let the bomb proof Durango saying down a bit. TD stuff takes some proper abuse and keeps coming back for more, but that diff, its too heavily reliant on that fragile clip.

that clip is also more expensive and nowhere near as good as other after market parts.
Schumacher have a part that works and think X-ray do as well

[/tobys]

I've built several 210 diffs using the Schumacher Circlip Tool and not had a problem...

Not cheap but compared to some of the problems people have had, seems like a bargain now!

[eldridge_racing]

Yeh I was wondering about a better circlip tool but I am putting a flat driver in to open it back up again...I'm starting to deffo think more about the spring a tnut as neither are straight and it does make the diff have a slight tight spot then frees up so I'm wondering if that force is causing the clip to pop aswell....has anyone tried any different springs or nuts?

[Rebelrc]

Originally Posted by jkclifford

Does let the bomb proof Durango saying down a bit. TD stuff takes some proper abuse and keeps coming back for more, but that diff, its too heavily reliant on that fragile clip.

Hi James
Could we put a small mig tack weld on it to hold it ?Or braize ? Is there space? Then cut it off when maintenance is required?

[Stu]

I've built three, including the diff that did the 24hr EBOR race, never had any problems at all.
The EBOR car did most of the 24hrs without a chirp, started slipping a little right at the end but finished the event without being touched.

The circlip is fiddly of you don't have the correct tool.