Show us your Kyosho RudeBits DB1

[Pedros20]

Originally Posted by Honeybadger

Here's my car ready for Southport. Going to try the small bores this time.

Excuse my rattle can paint job sitting next to Pedro's old FS2 shell.

Thought it was my old shell. Lol! Still looks nice though.

[Honeybadger]

Thought it was my old shell. Lol! Still looks nice though.

Your car was the reason I decided on returning to RC & Kyosho after my 18 year break. I love the shell.

Slightly off-topic but loving the carbon fibre pit mat!

It's just a Hudy set up board with a wrap.

[Neil Skull]

Love the paint job

[gixxer]

Ready to rumble big thanks to mr Bennetts for doin my shell in double quick time

[mikeyscott]

TORCH GP car

[JustARcFan]

Re-did the electrics and added some custom stickers

[Rich D]

Just finished my DB1, enjoyed the rebuild, its a really nice conversion.

Thanks to Kev at Insideline and to my other DB1 buddies who i have been pestering for info. Thanks also to Joo`s paint for the quick turn around on the shell.

Hope it drives as well as it looks !

[brooksy]

You running it on Saturday at west bridgford Rich?(weather dependent of course)

I had a go with Pete's at RHR last summer on a Wednesday night and after about two laps I was hooked.......would be the two wheel drive of choice for me but unfortunately I can't afford one myself but I'm sure you'll love it.

Phill

[Rich D]

Hi Phil

Yes going to give it a go ! See you there fingers crossed.

Rich

[tomtom]

Nice one !

Since the rebuilt I've used mine a lot.

I would advise anyone running one to try a different front end at least once.
Let me explain: Most of us buildt it with a WC front end. This front end got the longer wishbones and shortest hinge pins holder. On the other hand original RB5 got the widest holder and shorter wishbones. SP in between and RB6 block may be of use too, a little wider than the WC.
To summarize what I felt, a shorter block with the same wheelbase (or almost) will be more agressive than a larger one.

Broke a WC 'bone, changed the whole front to RB5 and liked it a lot. It felt easier overall and more stable/less brutal. A bit less steering on tight section where the DB looks like a 1/12th turning but not much and was easier on power and on high speed corners entry. I have to work more on it and compare but it might be a nice setup tool to ease the car yet kept all its properties.

For grippy fingers like mine it might help when the car will be too on the edge without a huge setup change.

The chassis did rolled more side to side but safely and it was the longer block one. SP2 might a good in between choice (RB6+SP 'bones too).

On high grip dry astro I would maybe still use the WC.

[cornishboy176]

All ready to go, first meeting at Yatton Sunday!!





Thanks to Highlander and Gixxer, Cheers lads

[jonathan may]

Very nice Ian. See you yatton on Sunday

[mikeyscott]

Great looking cars here, mines in process of a rebuild. Was going to be sold, but nope. I'd part with my RB6 first if I had to give up a 2WD car.

[RudeTony]

WOW!
It looks like I have to do a rebuilt on mine too now!
Looking very nice indeed gents.
Don't forget the set ups are posted on my site

[Rich D]

Cheers fellas for the compliments and thanks to tomtom for that info.

Iain, what length rear shock bodies are you running to use that much preload on the rear springs ? You might need to check things there.

Learned a lot. Three different lengths of shock bodies, two different tops and three different lengths of eyelets just for the small bore shocks. Two different front towers, several different driveshafts too. It's a bit of a minefield if you aren't building from new yourself.

[cornishboy176]

I don't know when I get home later I will measure them all,I did think it was quite a lot of pre load

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by cornishboy176

I don't know when I get home later I will measure them all,I did think it was quite a lot of pre load

Ok. As I learned from tony, the bodies at the back should be 38mm. I'm not up to speed with all lengths of shock shaft available but the std length shaft for the 38mm bodies are the 50mm ones.

Also check your driveshafts. You should have 62.5mm ones with a blue spacer on the inside of the hub. They have 62.5 etched on the bones.

[InsideLineModels]

Originally Posted by cornishboy176

I don't know when I get home later I will measure them all,I did think it was quite a lot of pre load

That might be because you are using the alloy gearbox top. I think they mount the tower higher.

[highlander]

Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing

That might be because you are using the alloy gearbox top. I think they mount the tower higher.

na the alloy top is the same as the plastic one . its because the shocks had the dead flat shock cups on them ....

[cornishboy176]

All sorted,just changed the rear spring cups,they were flat ones,put some deeper ones on, thanks highlander

That's better