Lazer zxr

[oosh123]

Just to clear some things up before the critics swarms in.

• The spring is a wave spring which can exert 15 newton. (Maybe too much)
• The inner bearing is an angular contact bearing. (can handle axial and radial loads)
• The 2 housing is screw together. one piece have female thread, the other male thread.
• O-rings will be nitrile orings (they are actually the best for silicone oils)

Otherwise, Enjoy =)

[SimonW]

I see no separate diff rings?

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by SimonW

I see no separate diff rings?

I didn't want diff plates because the groove you see have more contact area.

The groove with more contact area will work better then a flat plate, because it's the silicone oil that adjust how stiff the diff is, and not the spring.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

I didn't want diff plates because the groove you see have more contact area.

The groove with more contact area will work better then a flat plate, because it's the silicone oil that adjust how stiff the diff is, and not the spring.

Interesting design, my ideas are good but your designs rock. Did you think gear diff design wasnt up to it or is this an easier design to make? Im intreaged now.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Interesting design, my ideas are good but your designs rock. Did you think gear diff design wasnt up to it or is this an easier design to make? Im intreaged now.

Looking on the history of diffs. First the open gear diff, then closed gear diff with grease, ball diff, to the newest sealed silicone oil gear diff. I think its time for an evolution.

Gear diff wise, because the Lazer diff is so small, I started studying the V one R4 & the TF-6's diff. After some research and owning a TF-6, I found that the stock bevel gears strip extremely easily. The only way around that is the metal bevel gears that kyosho sells as option which cost upwards to $80 a diff. Futhermore, even with perfect shimming, the gear diff still don't have the smoothness as a ball diff (you can still feel the gears when turning it slowly).

With my design, bearings, diff balls, springs, O-rings(if engineered correct, one o-ring is enough. We found 2 orings in the plastic diffs because plastic injection molding sometimes can be hard to control) can easily be sourced on ebay. All I need to make is the housing, the inner rod/ball holder rod and the diff ball holder. It elimiated the needs to buy the expensive bevel gears that kyosho offers.

I believe this diff can be much smoother then a sealed gear diff. The ball holder/rod thing should not wear out, this diff is not like ball diff where it needs more force to squeeze the ball to make it stiffer. The groove is simply to hold the balls tight enough to stop any slippish. All metals (except the housing) will be stainless steel hardened. Also, there are different ratings for the wave spring which provide different level of preload.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

Looking on the history of diffs. First the open gear diff, then closed gear diff with grease, ball diff, to the newest sealed silicone oil gear diff. I think its time for an evolution.

Gear diff wise, because the Lazer diff is so small, I started studying the V one R4 & the TF-6's diff. After some research and owning a TF-6, I found that the stock bevel gears strip extremely easily. The only way around that is the metal bevel gears that kyosho sells as option which cost upwards to $80 a diff. Futhermore, even with perfect shimming, the gear diff still don't have the smoothness as a ball diff (you can still feel the gears when turning it slowly).

With my design, bearings, diff balls, springs, O-rings(if engineered correct, one o-ring is enough. We found 2 orings in the plastic diffs because plastic injection molding sometimes can be hard to control) can easily be sourced on ebay. All I need to make is the housing, the inner rod/ball holder rod and the diff ball holder. It elimiated the needs to buy the expensive bevel gears that kyosho offers.

I believe this diff can be much smoother then a sealed gear diff. The ball holder/rod thing should not wear out, this diff is not like ball diff where it needs more force to squeeze the ball to make it stiffer. The groove is simply to hold the balls tight enough to stop any slippish. All metals (except the housing) will be stainless steel hardened. Also, there are different ratings for the wave spring which provide different level of preload.

Copy right it as you designed it and companies like durango, schumacher, kyosho and tamiya will copy. I cant wait for my bits to test and will be looking forward to testing this.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Copy right it as you designed it and companies like durango, schumacher, kyosho and tamiya will copy. I cant wait for my bits to test and will be looking forward to testing this.

Copyrighting it and up keep of the license is a very expensive thing.

I rather sell the idea to them since they have all the RC marketing power and have them pay me some loyalties. =)

Besides, it's not a difficult thing to design, it only took me a few nights after I know that I wanted. But truely thank you for your ideas.

[DanB4]

A few more pics now I have the narrow fronts on

My shelf now has:

Turbo Optima (box art)
Optima Mid (soon to be box art)
Lazer ZX-R (box art and full CF)

The Ultima is awaiting my motivation to return and is in bits on a tray!

Cheers,

Dan

[HKS_TRD]

That looks great!

I have a Lazer ZX here which is close to Shelf Queen worthy that I am still not sure what I am going to do with it but converting it to a ZX-R is one posibility, not sure how many parts I need to change but I already have the tyres, wheels, shocks, shock towers, turnbuckles for narrow front already on it along with ZX-R whishbones

[lllyf]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

That looks great!

I have a Lazer ZX here which is close to Shelf Queen worthy that I am still not sure what I am going to do with it but converting it to a ZX-R is one posibility, not sure how many parts I need to change but I already have the tyres, wheels, shocks, shock towers, turnbuckles for narrow front already on it along with ZX-R whishbones

you still need a lots of parts to conversion zxr MK1 or MK2，MK1 the chassis as the same as original zx，upper deck has different，center drive（slipper），ball differential，wing mount，body set

[Welshy40]

Nice !!! Good job.

Mk1 chassis was better on grip surfaces (mk1 & 2 chassis are different so cant use mk2 unless you get different motor plate, L brace and top deck) so before you spend spend spend think about what surface youll be running on (if you are). If you are and on carpet (easier to keep clean) then diffs, slipper clutch, layshaft a zxr mk1 top deck and shock towers as well. I personally prefer the ZX steering plate as I get zero bumpsteer but if you want you can go for the ZXR MK1 and 2 version fibrelyte have this on their site.

[oosh123]

Finally have time to build my Lazer!







Front View of Front Gear Box



Rear View of Front Gear Box



Front Lower Belt Tensioner (Modded a Spider MKI Front Belt Tensioner) + Upper Deck Mount Posts



Front Upper Belt Tensioner



Custom Layshaft + Custom Slipper Plate



Heatsink Motor Mount + Aluminum Pulleys + Custom Layshaft



Rear Gear Box + Rear Tower Mount



Rear Belt Tensioner



Rear Upper Deck Mount



Rear View Of Rear Gear Box





Mod 3Racing Front Turning Knuckle





3Racing Rear hub







Next Upgrades would be CF Bumper, Lazer ZX-5 Style Pivot Block, and the Silicone Oil Sealed Ball Diff.

[oosh123]

Deleted

[oli4ke]

DAMN OOSH!!!!! That's one nice looking car you have there!!!!!
Where do you have the carbon main chassis, upper deck and battery straps from? Fibrelyte?

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by oli4ke

DAMN OOSH!!!!! That's one nice looking car you have there!!!!!
Were do you have the carbon main chassis, upper deck and battery straps from? Fibrelyte?

Thanks! The main chassis is Fibrelyte James Instone version without the battery slots (I want to use a Lazer ZX-5 body), battery straps are also from fibrelyte.

I redid the upper deck to fit my application

The car is not finished yet. still need a couple of upgrades.



I wonder how the Lazer will perform if I change the drive cups to this

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

Thanks! The main chassis is Fibrelyte James Instone version without the battery slots (I want to use a Lazer ZX-5 body), battery straps are also from fibrelyte.

I redid the upper deck to fit my application

The car is not finished yet. still need a couple of upgrades.



I wonder how the Lazer will perform if I change the drive cups to this

Try it, doubt they will be the correct size though

Looks stunning .

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Try it, doubt they will be the correct size though

Looks stunning .

I know it wouldn't be the right size. But I can make parts to make it right

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

I know it wouldn't be the right size. But I can make parts to make it right

Yes, not a bad idea otherwise why not just get hold of the drive cups for the pure ten diff (i think its part number 39506) and have it made.

I do have a worn out set of proto diff drives (the ones from my ZXS) if you want me to send them to you as they are a much better design than the pure ten outdrives. Let me know.

[Welshy40]

Iso,

Are you still alive, if yes great and please can you read and reply to your PM's.

[moth898]

Osh123


I WANT IT ALLLLLL!!!!!!!!!