Restore started

[purplenut]

Ok as all said best to restore i will but here a couple of pics so far.

[purplenut]

1st one cleaning started

[purplenut]

Nearly all cleaned, need to strip the rear shell and need a new front cab

[purplenut]

Well tonight i thought i best test the 31 year old electrics to see if they even worked and YES all ok gear box ok to
Next couple of weeks I'm going to start putting it back together if anyone has any info on front cabs for the Hilux i would b very great full
Thanks For lookingIMG_5799.jpg

IMG_5798.jpg

IMG_5796.jpg

IMG_5797.jpg

[Gayo]

FANTASTIC

[purplenut]

Originally Posted by Gayo

FANTASTIC

Thanks mate so chuffed it all works still after all this time, will have to put a new front cab and poss rear to if i can not get this pair off

[terry.sc]

I take it you aren't attempting to rebuild the gearbox then, but if you do fancy having a go rebuild instructions are available here http://kope.com/bruiser/TrannySvcManual.pdf

The front cab for the rerelease Bruiser and High Lift Hilux will fit, both were based on the same moulding as the original. The original had clear glass and an interior which isn't on the rerelease. The rerelease body itself has quite a few differences though which a collector will easily spot, but most won't notice as it looks more or less original, such as the side logo is moulded on the original but a sticker on the rerelease, and the indicators are clear on the rerelease while they are solid white on the original. Not cheap to piece together the new body either.

The rear stepside bed is unique to the original Hilux, all later models has flush sides and the original stepside is what makes it look unique. Yours looks okay, nothing a quick paint strip wouldn't fix.

[Maxbashing]

Really hope that was a very old white towel or you are in a lot of trouble...

[purplenut]

Originally Posted by terry.sc

I take it you aren't attempting to rebuild the gearbox then, but if you do fancy having a go rebuild instructions are available here http://kope.com/bruiser/TrannySvcManual.pdf

The front cab for the rerelease Bruiser and High Lift Hilux will fit, both were based on the same moulding as the original. The original had clear glass and an interior which isn't on the rerelease. The rerelease body itself has quite a few differences though which a collector will easily spot, but most won't notice as it looks more or less original, such as the side logo is moulded on the original but a sticker on the rerelease, and the indicators are clear on the rerelease while they are solid white on the original. Not cheap to piece together the new body either.

The rear stepside bed is unique to the original Hilux, all later models has flush sides and the original stepside is what makes it look unique. Yours looks okay, nothing a quick paint strip wouldn't fix.

Hi thanks for all that info
I was not going to touch the gear box but now with that pdf i might try it looks a bit tricky to me mind
Is it best just to buy pain stripper??? for the rear part as its got 3 coat's on it.
Im in 2 minds of selling some other car bits and buying the original transmitter on ebay but I'm restoring it to use not to sell so if a 4 channel will be ok i might do that instead.

[purplenut]

Ok yesterday i put my original hiluk spots in a spot of petrol to get the old paint off and kinda forgot about them now i have what i can describe as a pot of cornflower wet mix.
So although 2 were broken now i have none and wondered if these lights are the same on other models so i can get some more.

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by purplenut

Is it best just to buy pain stripper??? for the rear part as its got 3 coat's on it.

For paint stripping there are several choices, and paint stripper (or petrol!) shouldn't go anywhere near your bodies if you want to keep them.

First there's brake fluid, not the fastest method, in cold weather it can take ages to have any effect at all and it does need a lot of washing to clean off the fluid before painting, but it won't harm the plastic and is the only option that won't strip the skin off your hands. Quicker is oven cleaner but you do have to get the right one, most have the caustic ingredients removed to make them relatively safe which means they won't work on the paint. Finally there's caustic soda, you need to experiment with mixing it to get the strength right but once you've got it right it's fairly quick and easy to clean off afterwards. All of them will mean leaving the body soaking and scrubbing to loosen the paint, nothing will just lift the paint straight off.

Im in 2 minds of selling some other car bits and buying the original transmitter on ebay but I'm restoring it to use not to sell so if a 4 channel will be ok i might do that instead.

The original radio is just a 27mhz 4 channel transmitter, but with properly sprung throttle and a shift gate included. It will run fine, especially as the old radios have a much higher power output than modern radios, but any modern radio will do. If you are buying a modern radio, then whether it's mode 1 or mode 2 is pretty irrelevant for 3 speed use. The modes basically just define which stick has a ratchet on the throttle, which you will want to change anyway to a sprung neutral with the ratchet either removed or swapped to the gear shift channel.

So although 2 were broken now i have none and wondered if these lights are the same on other models so i can get some more.

The roll bar and spots were also used on the Blackfoot and Monster Beetle. The Blackfoot spotlights are part number 0005247 and includes a lot of other parts.

[purplenut]

Originally Posted by terry.sc

For paint stripping there are several choices, and paint stripper (or petrol!) shouldn't go anywhere near your bodies if you want to keep them.

First there's brake fluid, not the fastest method, in cold weather it can take ages to have any effect at all and it does need a lot of washing to clean off the fluid before painting, but it won't harm the plastic and is the only option that won't strip the skin off your hands. Quicker is oven cleaner but you do have to get the right one, most have the caustic ingredients removed to make them relatively safe which means they won't work on the paint. Finally there's caustic soda, you need to experiment with mixing it to get the strength right but once you've got it right it's fairly quick and easy to clean off afterwards. All of them will mean leaving the body soaking and scrubbing to loosen the paint, nothing will just lift the paint straight off.

The original radio is just a 27mhz 4 channel transmitter, but with properly sprung throttle and a shift gate included. It will run fine, especially as the old radios have a much higher power output than modern radios, but any modern radio will do. If you are buying a modern radio, then whether it's mode 1 or mode 2 is pretty irrelevant for 3 speed use. The modes basically just define which stick has a ratchet on the throttle, which you will want to change anyway to a sprung neutral with the ratchet either removed or swapped to the gear shift channel.

The roll bar and spots were also used on the Blackfoot and Monster Beetle. The Blackfoot spotlights are part number 0005247 and includes a lot of other parts.

Thanks for all of that, just confused about the radio, a standard one won't do it will it??? there is that one on ebay but i don't need the servo's.
As for the spots a g set sold for £45 i think i would rather buy a second hand black foot and use the ones from that.

[Naushad]

Don't use paint stripper...will cloud the polycarbonate and potentially weaken / spoil it!

There is no easy way although some elbow grease and a few small jars of tamiya polycarbonate paint remover may do the job for you.

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model...06041&sid=9264

Worked for a thundershot body I had a few a years back - worked well. Though not easily available in the uk. Try eBay.

[purplenut]

Originally Posted by Naushad

Don't use paint stripper...will cloud the polycarbonate and potentially weaken / spoil it!

There is no easy way although some elbow grease and a few small jars of tamiya polycarbonate paint remover may do the job for you.

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model...06041&sid=9264

Worked for a thundershot body I had a few a years back - worked well. Though not easily available in the uk. Try eBay.

Might just get a new body one on ebay for over £450 i don't think so
Im trying to get my email back from tc but no joy any ideas???

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by purplenut

Thanks for all of that, just confused about the radio, a standard one won't do it will it??? there is that one on ebay but i don't need the servo's.

Any radio will do, the original radio is nothing special except for the included shift gate. A three channel radio will do, as long as the third channel can operate in three positions to operate the gearbox. For example I have a three channel radio that has an adjustable knob for the third channel, which will operate the gearbox but as it is impossible to accurately centre it shouldn't be used at it can damage the gearbox if you can't position the gear shifts accurately.
Any standard four channel stick radio will work the Hilux, although if you have never used one you will find the throttle will be on a ratchet rather than being sprung, so in a plane you can position it and leave it flying at a constant speed. It is an easy fix to change it for car use. every four channel radio comes like this.

As for the spots a g set sold for £45 i think i would rather buy a second hand black foot and use the ones from that.

Welcome to the world of vintage restorations. If you want brand new original parts it isn't cheap, but there are ways around it. Picking up a Blackfoot for the spots, you could probably get your money back selling it on ebay when you've got the parts off it.

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by Naushad

Don't use paint stripper...will cloud the polycarbonate and potentially weaken / spoil it!

There is no easy way although some elbow grease and a few small jars of tamiya polycarbonate paint remover may do the job for you.

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model...06041&sid=9264

Worked for a thundershot body I had a few a years back - worked well. Though not easily available in the uk. Try eBay.

The Hilux has a Styrene body, not polycarbonate.

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by purplenut

Im trying to get my email back from tc but no joy any ideas???

If you have a problem with TC the person to contact is Twinset, click on the ask member a question on his home page here. He doesn't run the site but is the main moderator and much easier to actually get hold of.

[purplenut]

Originally Posted by terry.sc

If you have a problem with TC the person to contact is Twinset, click on the ask member a question on his home page here. He doesn't run the site but is the main moderator and much easier to actually get hold of.

Ok cheers😄