Dex410 newbie build help

[gixxer1000rider]

Hi everyone,

I am all new to this and have just purchased a rolling 410 chassis off fleabay and would like some help with electrics.

The club I am thinking of joining has a motor limit of 13.5t stock can you tell me which brands are 'safe' obviously sensors is the way to go.

Secondly, servos?

Thirdly ESC's

Fourthly lipo's what rating?

Seems a lot of questions but I don't want to go out and buy gear that I'll have to replace within a small timeframe.

My budget isn't huge but need electrics to be right for indoor club racing at beginner level.

Many thanks

[Big G]

2nd hand servo's can be picked up for around £20. I've bought a few old KO servo's that I've been running for 4yrs now.

Hobbywing ESCs seem really good value for what they car if you're buying new.

Anything 30c will be fine.

[coleman758]

Personally, I always buy the electrics "Right", By cheap and you will most probably find yourself replacing them a few months down the line.

For me stick to LRP/Tekin gear. I have run both and NEVER have one issue with either. I would go for 2nd hand LRP/Tekin. You can pick the RSpro/TC SXX for less than £100 and the motors are going cheap now the new X20 is out. The RSpro is ideal for the 410 because its so small, Its frees up loads of space.

Perfect setup.....

1) LRP SXX TC spec & LRP X12 6.5/7.5

2) Tekin RSpro & Tekin Redline 6.5/7.5

Servo wise, Savox all the way, The low profile ones are perfect. Thats all I have in all my cars. It give you more room too, I normally have my PT between the gearbox and the servo.

Lipo, I run 90c 5500mah Orions, They are ace and about as cheap as you can get decent saddles for, Just be careful buying saddles as most of the hong-kong stuff are too high to fit a 410.

Thats about all for my essay!

Have fun

[OneKiwi]

Originally Posted by coleman758

Servo wise, Savox all the way, The low profile ones are perfect. Thats all I have in all my cars. It give you more room too, I normally have my PT between the gearbox and the servo.

Nice I didn't think of that and may just help in those dash for the line finishes. As its the PT that counts not the nose

[HyperDunley]

Originally Posted by gixxer1000rider

The club I am thinking of joining has a motor limit of 13.5t stock

Originally Posted by coleman758

Perfect setup.....

1) LRP SXX TC spec & LRP X12 6.5/7.5

2) Tekin RSpro & Tekin Redline 6.5/7.5

Any ESC will handle 13.5T stock mate, but if you are looking to race at alternative clubs that have no limit, the above combo's will be perfect, if not a little pricey when new....

[coleman758]

Sorry my bad, I forgot about the 13.5 limit
Redline & X12 have 13.5's anyway.

My suggestions can be a little pricey, But its worth it in the long run.

The only other combo i would recommend is the Orca Q Spark, They are around £130 retail for the ESC & Motor.

Had them in my 2WD for a while, Agin never missed a beat.

[coleman758]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

Nice I didn't think of that and may just help in those dash for the line finishes. As its the PT that counts not the nose

Thought the same, But it makes no difference in times, As the loop only starts when the PT passes also.

It would make a tiny difference in finals when racing for place.
but it would be photo finish level haha!

[xtreme-rc]

hi,
as a regular at faversham there are a number of ways you get racing with-out spending to much cash.
we were at maritime and worked out that with the 120 drivers there was in excess of £200,000 worth of personal gear there !!!!
at faversham you have made a good choice with the durango as ed has shown, they are quick !!!
the equipment you buy is a choice, as to what you want to do, if you just want to race a faversham then you only need a hobbywing xtreme stock esc a hobbywing 13.5 motor and some cheap 35-40c cells
if you want to go a little further, as in regionals and maritime next year? perhaps then i suggest you spend a little more and get the 120 amp speedo and some brca approved cells.
suggest you buy electrical equipment new!!
the car you have is fine at the moment but make sure you have the metal front brace on the front, 2 meetings max with the plastic one
servo, you can spend £20 on a ok servo but the best is the savox 1251, job done,
if you want any help with the car or set up please speak to ed kerry tomorrow, his durango is sorted
les kerry
xtreme

[kartstuffer]

For starters that last combination sounds good.
I run Tekin 10.5 stock with a tekin RS,and my sons is an ez run 13.5 with an hobbywing esc unsensored ,it is just as quick as mine when geared right + it runs cooler and you can adjust timing etc easily on the esc.
As for servo sanwa or savox.
Batteries any saddle up to25mm to get you going but i think Orion 90c do make a difference but only when you are looking for tenths with no crashes..

[slowjun]

Originally Posted by coleman758

Lipo, I run 90c 5500mah Orions, They are ace and about as cheap as you can get decent saddles for, Just be careful buying saddles as most of the hong-kong stuff are too high to fit a 410.

Have fun

Sample of Hong Kong Lipo Batts, just need to read the specs...



Dimensions: 69x47x25mm EA

Max is 25mm

Sample Hong Kong HW ESC's on a 410 , it fits, really . Just need to be creative. Had this 3 yrs now and still Kicking hard...



Tekin and other branded stuff are great and all, it all depends on how much you are willing to spend on this hobby, and at the end of the day its really up to the driver behind the wheel who end up at the TQ.

[gixxer1000rider]

Many thanks for the reply guys, this really helps me out. now all i have to do is source the parts. thanks for the photo's as well, this really helps with layout. am still waiting delivery or the chassis, it should be here within the next 3 days.

as this is a used chassis, is there anything i should be checking over, or would it be better to strip it down and check anyway?

Thanks again/

[OneKiwi]

Unless you get the set up sheet then it would be an idea to redo the diffs and shocks so you know how it is then set up. You also get an idea of how it goes together as those things are something you may change a bit

[gixxer1000rider]

Thanks for all your info, IT HAS ARRIVED!

I am blown away by the build quality and am pleased that it has been really looked after considering it has been used. it is the 410R version with alloy shock mounts and plastic side pods but has many hop up parts and all the spares and parts not used during the original build by the previous owner. it has a brass weight block on the rear as well and 4 wings of differing sizes and shapes, also the shock oil and grease and silicone all unused and all for £130! really pleased.

i have stripped it down and seen nothing that raises concern or suspiscion but it does have different coloured shock springs front and rear. light blue and dark blue? and a spare set of silver. i presume i need to buy more springs so they match, best place? uk based.

the ride height seems high also approx 50mm almost double the amount needed according to an old set-up sheet i found on durango website. how do i lower it?

ill try and get a couple of photos up later.

Now the job of buying the parts to get it running. have done so much research over the last 48 hours but have decided on speed passion for the ESC and motor and will go for the orion lipos and a savox servo. that little lot should come in around £200.

as for charger, who knows? but dont want to spend too much on that.

also going to pick up an ansmann W6 with receiver for £70 new as a starting point.

Thanks again

[mattr]

The springs are different ratings, check out the durango website for a spring chart. Light blue/dark blue is a fairly popular combination (apparently). So no, you don't need to match them.......

edit:- spring chart.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ringChart.html

The ride height is likely as you have no running gear in it.
My 2wd is sans electrics at the mo, and that looks like its on stilts too.

If you have a look round on the Petit website (or durango for that matter) and get a more up to date/new set up sheet it should give you a better handle on where to start.

Get a half way decent charger, cheap rubbish will possibly just destroy your lipos, and anything within 20 m as well.

Look at spending £30-40 on an all in one as a minimum. LX41B is what i had (£40), upgraded to a UAC-50 (£50) when i sold my old car as an RTR (included the charger).