Lazer zxr

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

I think we need to redesign the slipper clutch plates as thats the main issue as currently it doesnt slip correctly, ok better with my spur gear design but isnt enough.

If youd see it go tonight youd understand, it was rapid and was as quick as my 2wd so means if i get it right it will be a lap quicker and that may put me up there within the top 40 in the uk. Fyi my 2wd was stunning and chuffed my lazer was fractionally quicker.

Cant wait for those belts

So do you want my used ones?? but you need to pay for the express fee.

[moth898]

Originally Posted by isobarik

Moth

mvh Isobarik

everyone has their day in the sun

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

So do you want my used ones?? but you need to pay for the express fee.

No thanks mate, they would snap quicker. This had now made my mind up on this cf gearbox design. Im well annoyed that i may not be able to run it. Zxs will be run and isnt in the same league.

[rondoolaa]

i wouldnt say no to a blue belt for my shelfer or any other mods, front gearbox etc, money waiting ;-)

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by rondoolaa

i wouldnt say no to a blue belt for my shelfer or any other mods, front gearbox etc, money waiting ;-)

damn boy you wear them out fast ....

mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

Oosh cant you make an cad new shaft for the slipper you know using kyosho rb5 parts slipper plates, spring and soo???

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by moth898

everyone has their day in the sun

atleast you know have some blue steering did you getv the 5 or the 7.5

and i actually found the missing package ...

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by isobarik

Oosh cant you make an cad new shaft for the slipper you know using kyosho rb5 parts slipper plates, spring and soo???

mvh Isobarik

Yes, I can make a CAD drawing out of anything. But I need the actual shaft to see what the dimensions are.

Making a brand new shaft is doable too, lengthening the existing Lazer ZX shaft, but it will need to be heat treated to make it harden. The minimum order quality for that is 100 pieces. I am afraid I can't consume that much.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

I think we need to redesign the slipper clutch plates as thats the main issue as currently it doesnt slip correctly, ok better with my spur gear design but isnt enough.

If youd see it go tonight youd understand, it was rapid and was as quick as my 2wd so means if i get it right it will be a lap quicker and that may put me up there within the top 40 in the uk. Fyi my 2wd was stunning and chuffed my lazer was fractionally quicker.

Cant wait for those belts

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

[moth898]

Originally Posted by isobarik

atleast you know have some blue steering did you getv the 5 or the 7.5

and i actually found the missing package ...

mvh Isobarik

My man Henrik.... I just read through the thread a little more....you had a heart attack!!

Take care of your health my friend....I'd like to have you around a whole lot longer. Enjoy life cause its too short.

Bill

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by oosh123

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

i have designed my own top shaft for my optima mid , and now it uses all the B4 parts for slipper, the plates, pads ,spring, and also spur gear. it works really well, and bestt of all all the B4 parts are cheap and easy to get. perhaps a new top shaft design for the lazer would be a good idea too?

[alcyon]

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by moth898

My man Henrik.... I just read through the thread a little more....you had a heart attack!!

Take care of your health my friend....I'd like to have you around a whole lot longer. Enjoy life cause its too short.

Bill

its not me its ron that had one.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by alcyon

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

Yes the 1/48p is standard 48 pitch its the sopurgear for the kyosho triumph TM-7

When using the MKII the batteries are moved rearward and that means that also the rear upperdeck mount is moved rearwards so there is not as much space for the motor compared to the zx/zxr

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by oosh123

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by alcyon

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

Mk2 as iso said has less space so 23 may be as far as you can go unless you use a motor that has a lot of mounting screw holes.

If surface is clay a ball diff will stop bite on corners under power, but on carpet gear diffs packed out with vaseline work superbly.

[Welshy40]

Hyper clutch is a brilliant design and you can use rc10, b2 or b3 slipper pads or cut down a b4 pad. Dont overtighten as the rear belts do snap if using powerful motors. We are redesigning the rear gearbox and once done the layshaft as well. By the time we have finished the car will be hard to beat.

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.

yes you are right, the shaft needs to be redesigned. i see this as a better option, rather than designing a lot of new parts, you only design 1 and use standard other parts. attached is CAD thumbnail of my shaft. Notice the inner side is all optima mid, and the outer is B4 with the flat cuts.
Vega eh, is he the guy from street fighter II ?

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Mk2 as iso said has less space so 23 may be as far as you can go unless you use a motor that has a lot of mounting screw holes.

If surface is clay a ball diff will stop bite on corners under power, but on carpet gear diffs packed out with vaseline work superbly.

Welsh, i tried the vaseline, and i am afraid it doesnt work, after a pack, the diffs feel loose like there is nothing in them. When i take them apart, i find that the vaseline is melted, and turns black. Not only that, some of it oozes out of sides of the diff output shaft.

[oosh123]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.

Welshy, the layshaft doesn't need to be re-designed. The only thing that needs work is the thrust plate that is contacting the slip pads.

It's diameter simply just needs to be larger.

If you think the using springs are better than the spring washers then yes, the layshaft needs to be re-designed.