best car about ???

[budfish]

Originally Posted by thaiboxer

seems very mixed opinion wise !! has the b44 been around a while and is something about to replace it this year ??

can some one tell me where anx when in oldham the bury club meet ?
daz

Here's bury website http://www.bmrcc.co.uk/

The next race is 8th of jan indoors in Oldham I'll be there so if you want a chat or a look round just turn up and any off the lads will point you in the right direction

As for the b44 it was updated last year to the b44.1 not massively differant than the b44 just little tweaks here and there

Buds

[Si Coe]

Details are on the website, address on the front, dates in the calendar section. Next meeting is the 8th.

The B44 series has been around a while, but the B44.1 is only a year old or so, current world champ and competitive at all levels. It won't be replaced soon.

[thaiboxer]

thanks guys !!! if running 5.5 what is recommended speedo an lipo wise

[hotrodchris]

Esc lots to choose from personally i like the hobbywing 120 amp with USB programme card batteries depending on car sticks or saddles?
4500mah 45c plus i would recommend and must be hard cased

[budfish]

Originally Posted by thaiboxer

thanks guys !!! if running 5.5 what is recommended speedo an lipo wise

I personally prefer lrp speedos to any other due to the 2 year warranty it comes with I think speed passion speedos come with 6 weeks or something like that

As for lipos I think the Orion 5500 mah 90c are really good quality for around £70 each I use the slighty less powerful ones which are 4500mah and 45c I've used both and can't tell the difference performance wise

Savox servos are good quality for the price around £55

Buds

[budfish]

Je spares have the lrp sxx tc spec for £129.99 a saving of around £50

Heres the link http://www.jespares.com/electric-mod...ategory_id=532

Buds

[Stu]

Originally Posted by thaiboxer

thanks guys !!! if running 5.5 what is recommended speedo an lipo wise

I would avoid a 5.5. With a new 45C LiPo that will be like trying to control a rat on crack. Unless you can make a National A final it will be too fast.

A 7.5 will be plenty, especially for indoors. On a big outdoor track you may want a 6.5, if you have some good skills in your thumbs.

Originally Posted by budfish

Je spares have the lrp sxx tc spec for £129.99 a saving of around £50

I have that ESC from the same source, good price for top quality stuff. Service & backup from JE and the UK importer is good also.

[TARTMAN]

Originally Posted by thaiboxer

thanks guys !!! if running 5.5 what is recommended speedo an lipo wise

I run a votex R10 pro, LOVE it from the box........ and will handle a 5.5 easily, althou 5.5 is a little mad..... but then you might be??

I have a 6.5t in the sx3 and plenty of power with no turbo etc.....

and on the subject of the best car about.........

Its subjective........... EG, Chef, had issues with the cat, i have had none at all in 3 months, not a one..... apart from a spur gear when motor came loose, but thats just one of those things.....
breakages is normal for any car, i broke a front mount, yes, but thats normal stuff. any one can break em.... althou i now make my own and there unbreakable, so far no more busted shock mounts........
Dudders busted a shock mount at the mkgp with a new(b44.1) car, so no car is safe...... infact, the b44.1 in my opinion has a very exposed front end........... but as i said, everyone brakes stuff, so pays ya money and makes ya chioce................. eitehr way have fun!!!

Love schumacher and thats what works for me..... everyone will have love and or hate for all cars in one way or another.......... So its really what you decide suits you......... Happy Racin whatever you decide on......

[feniks]

Originally Posted by The Chef

Belts and lay shaft bearing mostly. And I found the front shock towers incredibly weak. I spend a lot of time on the tools with my cars and found that I just could not achieve a satisfactory reliability factor, so they had to go. Loving the V3 Durango and love the look of the New Lazer although they seem to be eating diffs at my local club.

As I said that was my experience with them I also know other people who do do very well with the SX3.

As they say opinions are like "A" holes every one has one and most of them stink.

It is also worth seeing what is popular with the guys at your local club as they will help with set up and spares if your lacking one evening.

K

well as I was one of the first to have one of the SX3 cars when they came out (thanks to Phill and Mark marchal) I had also the first problems with it .
and yes the first mid belt was a problem bud that was solvd against the time the euro's arived so cant complain on that at all . second bearings ??????? i ran the car sinds April and it has seen it all dirt , dirt astro in al conditions tu up that most drivers would not even start and the car came in after a run and you could poor the dirt and water out of the car and never broken 1 bearing . schock towers mmmmm broken more of them last year on my 511 so ??? as tom and lee already told me a few times than dont hit anny thing than it wil not break lol . and as far as I now most belgium 4X4 drivers now drive a cat instead of there durango's from last year as the car is way easyer to drive and more durabel . but hey thats my opinion only . would say let me prep a car for you and you will see thats its not the car but the mecanic that mostly fails and that resulting in a broken part. lol

[hotrodchris]

[QUOTE=Stu;598964]I would avoid a 5.5. With a new 45C LiPo that will be like trying to control a rat on crack. Unless you can make a National A final it will be too fast.

If you run a 5.5 and a decent speedo with a program card you can tune them down to be controlable, but if you don't get a program card a 5.5 can be fun!
Admittedly a lot of indoor tracks a 6.5 with the correct gearing is all you need apart from skill!
(Searched on line can't find a shop that sells it though)

[Cardnim]

Originally Posted by Stu

I would avoid a 5.5. With a new 45C LiPo that will be like trying to control a rat on crack. Unless you can make a National A final it will be too fast.

A 7.5 will be plenty, especially for indoors. On a big outdoor track you may want a 6.5, if you have some good skills in your thumbs.

100% agree.
I just got started racing this time last year and went straight in at with a 6.5 in my Cat SX2. In hindsight this was too much for me. I upped it to a 5.5 (?!?) which was bonkers as Stu rightly says. TOo much for me.

A 7.5 if you will mostly be racing bigger tracks, or even a good 10.5 I would recommend. With todays timing advances ESC you can always push a 10.5 that bit extra to get top end if you need it.

Car = SX3 for me. Build it right, its going to be a great car; loads of other drivers on here for advice/setups and best of all, the Schumacher team and staff are second to none for service, parts and help.

BUt has already been said, Im sure that most of the top 1/10th cars now are all much of a muchness in terms of performance and reliability when built and driven well.

Good luck

[tisher]

if you are just starting back get a b44 or fs2 both pretty decent cars but I personally would go for the fs2 very easy to drive motor wise get yourself a 6.5t nowadays you can always turn down the end point on your remote if its to quick. cars now are as quick as you can handle and with lipo and brushless you can have to much speed.. esc wise I would say the same as buds you can not beat the lrp sxx. I made the mistake of buying a very quick car when I started back and it took me nearly 4 months to learn how to control it properly again and I used to be a very good driver

[JonyNitro]

FS-2 for me with Nosram pearl,or Lrp Sxx, 6.5t with 40,50 c cells

[VillageIdiot]

Originally Posted by budfish

I personally prefer lrp speedos to any other due to the 2 year warranty it comes with I think speed passion speedos come with 6 weeks or something like that

As for lipos I think the Orion 5500 mah 90c are really good quality for around £70 each I use the slighty less powerful ones which are 4500mah and 45c I've used both and can't tell the difference performance wise

Savox servos are good quality for the price around £55

Buds

when I tried the 90c saddles in my durango with the tekin system i noticed a huge difference between the 45c lipos. I found it more responsive and drivable. hard to explain but ive been converted to 90c lipos

[The Chef]

Originally Posted by budfish

Don't see how mate it's got awesome drive train may be they need some top quality balls in their diffs ??

I might change the bevel gears in my lazer once a season.

When I bought my b44.1 I built it and I couldn't get the spur gear to mesh !!! Due to it being egg shaped ae cars are cheap and nasty that's why I flogged it and back to the lazer for me!!

I know what you mean Bud My RB5 SP2 Diff is as smooth as silk for ages I may look as it 2 or 3 times a year I change the oil on my durango every 3rd club meet and after each all dayer. I guess i will do the same with the MP9 may be after each meet I'll ask around but I do keep on top of my cars

I'd buy a Lazer in a blink If I didn't have the Durango.

[budfish]

Originally Posted by Stu

I would avoid a 5.5. With a new 45C LiPo that will be like trying to control a rat on crack..

Its Excactly like that I remember buying my sxx and a x12 5.5t 45c lipos then went to chadderton to help set up and have a practice afterwards.
I over shot the straight went head on I to the wall snapped the chassis,top deck,front shock tower and bent all the hinge pins on the front of my brand new fs2

Needless to say I run a6.5t now.

The fastest car at the track isn't always the fastest going around the track!! Fact

[TARTMAN]

i was using lower, 30 to 45c cells, now i use the nanotech 65-130c lipos and must say they give loads more punch without seeming to be snatchy, love em.

but it would not suit everyone, as mentioned, the modern esc/brushless etc can be tuned up or down and truly make any car/motor/set up adjustable in every way.

I am still old school style so i have a decent power in the motor and a nice esc and leave it standard, till the thumbs get a little more used to the speed and thaw out from the many years frozen out of the game, I would stick to not to much power.....

And thats my advice like others have said, start with a 7.5t and you can always make it quicker of needed, easier than detuning a mad man 5.5t...

but we all drive differently so its all good advice........... for different people....... Maybe buying a couple different motors, 2nd hand to get an idea what suits you and the car and then selling them off and buying new when you know...... thats a financial option of course....

[Si Coe]

To be honest I race at Bury in 4wd using a 10.5t and my car isn't slow. Doesn't quite have the punch of the 6.5t's be its plenty for me. In fact I got better switching from a 6.5t to a 10.5t - too much motor never helps.

[hotrodchris]

I run both the Orion 90c and the Nano Tech 65 to 130c batteries and even i notice the difference, in my 410V3 and thats being a very moderate club racer, whatever batteries you choose be aware they are all different weights so every time you swap cells it makes a slight difference to the way the car drivesso get 2 packs the same and even then put them on a set of scales to check the weights are the same, bit of overkill maybe but it all makes a difference with set up!

[thaiboxer]

Does any one of any good model shops open today the 27th