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#61
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All kits have been posted!!! Can't wait to see these cars running. Due to demand I sold my one, so I will have to wait for the next batch which is due to arrive towards the end of the month. So if you want to order a 210 let me know!
Thanks Matt |
#62
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__________________
Trader feedback:-http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78095 It was once said to me, if you light the blue touch paper you need to stand well back ![]() |
#63
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Personal experience:
Step 2. screwing the arms into the W piece with all those tiny little washer was a fiddley job to say the least. Got there eventually though ![]() Step 5, screwing the front of the pods over the steering mounting piece was extremely tight and the holes weren't lined up quite perfectly. I loosened the pods and the W piece so there was a bit of give and everything is now screwed down tight. Also I have to praise the way the servo can be quickly removed! I suffered a lot with stripping horns on the DEX410 and removing the servo can be quite frustrating at the best of times. DEX210 servo removal A star! Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem. Step 8 and 10. Adam clarified earlier in this post in regards to which inserts gave which camber settings. Extra info in the manual wouldn't go a miss. 0:47 in the video on the TD website doesn't say 25 degrees is an option to answer Mike's question. Step 15/16 not so much a problem, but the image is half the size as it covers RM and MM configs so seeing where everything goes requires a closer look. Should threadloc be included in the kit? I had some from my DEX410 kit either way. This isn't a bitchy wining post about how TD should have addressed all these things, etc, etc like we've seen before. It's purely my personal experience from building the car last night. I think it's an amazingly throughout out and the level of attention to details is fantastic. I just wish I didn't have to wait a week to run it lol! |
#64
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Just finished mine and it weighs in at 1637 gr.
One thing I notice is that when the front arm is lifted the steering arm 320124-12 is bending slightly. Compared to the rest of the car it does seem a little flimsy. I guess an alu option will be around the corner. ![]() I've pre ordered two battery retainer replacement blocks from Noel at Cream Extreme. They are made from stainless steel and each weigh 24g (£10 each and £18 pair). An easy way to tune in a little weight if needed.
__________________
Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk |
#65
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how many are running the std ball diff v the gear diff
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#66
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considering the gear diff isn't commercially available yet.. most/all of us
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#67
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#68
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I've been living in a geared diff world for almost a year now and love it. If the ball diff gives me issues I'll replace it straight away.
I built it with lazy balls and the action is super smooth. my last experience of ceramic balls didn't go too well in my B44 a few years back and the diffs went very notchy and undid themselves. once I put standard balls back in no problem. I'll see how it goes for now. |
#69
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I've also built mine with RC Lazy balls. However, I see this as a temporary measure until the geared diff is available, then I'll swap.
__________________
Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk |
#70
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Buds Balls have been very popular as well. An excellent choice in my opinion. Hopefully the spares and geared diff will arrive soon!!
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#71
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Can't wait to get home and build mine or maybe not
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#72
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the team were running at worksop,i know one ran with gear,swopped to ball,then put the gear back in
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#73
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Either way the gear diff oils I have purchase thus far are 750 and 1k |
#74
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No problem to mount it so far, I am still doing it. Thanks for the explanation for the caster settings, it could have been great to have information in the manual.
I still don't know if I will go rear motor on mid motor. I guess rear motor will be more versatile than the mid motor. What do you think guyz ? |
#75
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depends on the type of surface you are racing on dirt,astro,carpet.
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#76
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Most of the tracks are dirt in France, but my training track is an astro one... that's why I had my TLR 22 in mid motor configuration, which was a great car on the grip. On dirt, it was very very difficult to be fast in mid motor...
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#77
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1st outing for the car indoors tonight box stock apart from the pistons and man it was awesome, very very impressed
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__________________
CML DISTRIBUTION -SOUTHWESTRC -HPI - RUDEBITS - MR O FOAMS - LMR - ATOMIC CARBON -STARREGORSEHOLIDAYPARK - ICON RC
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#78
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First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009
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#79
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They are very tight but if you use the screw and piston it should take it down
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#80
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They are very tight, they do fit on though, just need a little bit of encouragement
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