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#1
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hello
i need to no what upgrades i will need for zx5 to make it stronger etc for outdoor racing. and where to get them from ![]() |
#2
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hi i got the alloy front front brace alloy shock mount holder for the front witch makes the front end alot stronger the diff balls arn't that good so replace them with ceramic ones the will last alot longer you should be able to get them from any good model shop
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#3
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have a look in the Kyosho section, this question has been answered many times in there. Loads of info on upgrades and shimming the diffs correctly.
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#4
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So far I have added front metal suspension holder, metal shock tower mounts front and rear, Atomic carbon front shock tower sandwiched with the original for added strength, Atomic carbon rear shock tower mount, front CVD's (otherwise you lose a lot of dogbones) and Atomic Carbon top deck which reduces flex.
All on Nathans recommendations and must say the car is a lot stronger now. |
#5
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who knows who cares ![]() |
#6
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titanium everywhere and it still weighs a ton
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who knows who cares ![]() |
#7
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I just bought a lazer RTR from ebay and anxiously waiting for its delivery.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now, for other parts I am not sure what to get. I know for sure I will getting the aluminum front suspension holder since I have hear that is one of the first things to break. Now here are the other parts I need help in deciding. Screw Set titanium vs steel Diff Balls ceramic vs carbide Tower Mount aluminum vs alloy (unless they are both the same material, er, aluminum alloy?) F and R Shock Stay (tower) carbon composite vs aluminum vs carbon fiber vs graphite (may be the same as carbon fiber... I think) C hub and knuckle set alloy vs aluminum (unless they are the same) Also, I also heard people suggesting to get the 10 degree c hub for better steering. Is 7 degree ok since that is the most they offer in aluminum. http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/s...oducts_id=3193 I've been out of the loop for 20 years when it comes to rc's so forgive my ignorance. ![]() ![]() |
#8
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standard steel screws will be fine and much cheaper. see DC racing
get an alloy front tower mount, don't need the rear as much unless you can afford it easy. carbide B4 balls are fine unless again you have budget for ceramic. see oldtimer on here (jonathon from atomic carbon for good ceramic balls at cheap price) Atomic carbon towers are the best, see oldtimer above again. at the front use the kit tower together with the graphite for extra strength. don't bother with the alloy front hubs, they are rubbish, cheap alloy. just get 2-3 sets of kyosho 10 degree ones, and a spare pack of king pins. also an alloy front hinge pin retainer if you don't have one, the plastic one breakes easy if you hit a front wheel.
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#9
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sound upgrades listed above. cannot fault the atomic carbon stuff,and agree with the kyosho hubs.
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#10
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I have had mine racing now for nearly two years done as much research as possible and alot of knowledge picked up over the years racing other cars aswell so here goes....
1) Alloy front brace ( a must for racing). 2) Alloy rear braces-these are from the TF5 Stallion and are adjustable for track width and toe angle from 0- about 4 degrees or more (not tried for more) another must for racing(think cartwheel). 3) B4 slipper conversion with a low profile alloy locking nut for better adjustment. 4) NEWER mouldings from kyosho have much stronger tower mounts now save your money and get them they are good(the difference side by side is obvious) and the weight of course. 5)Get hold of atomic carbon and ask for 4mm thickness shock towers (i could never praise them enough VERY helpful company). 6)LAW 34 rear conversion (stops the car squating the rear on power out of corners) and has the newer and better sealing shock cartridges and you get rear cvd's in the conversion set. 7)Alloy front diff (intended for TF5 but works also in ZX5 and it comes with plastic blades, saves on rotating mass weight and general front end weight. 8) full titanium screw kit on the top of the car(turnbuckles too) and steels underneath. 9)Ballraced steering shimmed so you can tighten up with no slop. 10)ceramic diff balls built using AE lube as the kyosho stuff is a bit runny(shimmed with 3 silvers on the short side none on the other). 11)Yokomo mr4 BC(yes BC) titanium gold shock shafts front and rear with MIP blue shock seals and green slime. 12) 45 g of lead on the motor side 15 0n servo and 30 near the motor as forward as poss'.... phew i think thats it. also want a bullit body and carbon battery strap. OH yes also if you have 1 that fits put two bearings in the rear input shaft bearing holder that is clamped by the gearbox. HTH Simon
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MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk |
#11
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the current batch of kyosho shock towers are real strong. you can tell they are the current batch, they have a little extra plastic on top that you pull off before you use it.
i used to go through a shock tower gauranteed every time i misjudge the triple. ever since the new tower, it has lasted me 3 months no problems.
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To Finish First, First you must drive fast ![]() |
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