How To: Replace a Damaged Sensor Cable

[j.m.]

Quite a few motors these days have non-replacable sensor cables. Most notably the Novak SS series. Mess up a cable, and you'll be paying more than $30 to send the motor to Novak and get the cable fixed. More if your not in the US.

DISCLAIMER:
I am in no way affiliated with Novak, and I do not take any responsibility for any damage to any motor resulting from this tutorial. Only attempt to repair a motor if you have advanced electronics knowledge and soldering skills.

Materials:
-A new Sensor Cable
-Assorted hex drivers for taking the motor apart
-a soldering iron, prefferably 25w or less with a small PCB tip
-40w+ iron with a large flat tip, like something used for soldering cells together.
-1 small zip tie, color doesn't matter.

STEP 1:

Remove your motor completely from your car (unsolder the leads) and unplug your busted sensor cable. Using the appropriate size hex, remove the front endbell from your motor.





Pull the rotor out, and SAVE THE SHIM!





STEP 2:

Time to remove the rear plastic cap. Just like the front, take out the three screws and gently pry the cover off with your fingernail.



STEP 3:

Time to remove the solder tabs and fiberglass plate. Using your large iron with the flat tip, melt the solder on one of the connections and pry the fiberglass plate up with an exacto knife. You'll have to do this a few times for each of the three connections. Just like soldering a battery pack, only allow the iron to be in contact with the solder puddle for three seconds at a time. The metal tabs transfer heat extremely well and will separate from the fiberglass plate if your not careful.



Remove the black plastic rear bearing holder. Be careful with the sensor wires.



Here's what the hall sensors and thermal sensor PCB look like:



STEP 4:

Remove the PCB from the black plastic housing. There are two small silver screws that hold the PCB to the rear housing. At this point, you should clearly be able to see where the sensor wires attach to the PCB, and you should be able to tell if you have the ability to solder these wires or not.







That's all I have for now, Im going to wait to remove the existing wires until the new sensor cable comes in the mail.

Thanks!
Jon

[j.m.]

I might also do another tutorial on how to drill the holes in the front endbell all the way through for better cooling...

[ashleyb4]

Drilling holes in the end bell of a motor makes it none BRCA legal..

A

[DCM]

I repaired a Novak, and found it didn't work after, and that was a sensor replacement.

[j.m.]

Originally Posted by ashleyb4

Drilling holes in the end bell of a motor makes it none BRCA legal..

A

Didn't know that; holes in motors are allowed over here.

As for repairing the motor, I am definitely hoping it works. If it doesn't, I can just use the motor as sensorless... Looking at the PCB, one of the hall effect sensors is rather close to the wire, and could possibly be damaged if the soldering iron touches it for too long.

Jon

[Kifogrande]

why not just solder a new one on? From the wire left on the old cable!?!

[burgie]

'cos that would be too simple!

It's a good guide though. However, it makes me think $30 is not a bad price if the otherwise good motor can be killed in the process.

[Battle_axe]

as long as your not a total spanner with a soldering iron you should be fine

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by DCM

I repaired a Novak, and found it didn't work after, and that was a sensor replacement.

lol so you didnt really repair it did you

[j.m.]

I could do that, but the cable lengh I need is around 2", and if I did not stagger the joints between the cables I would have such a large bulge in the cable that the metal shielding would be rendered useless. Plus replacing the cable entirely looks stock, and is exactly what Novak will do.

Btw, the $30 repair cost is just for replacing the cable and does not include shipping.

Jon

[DCM]

Originally Posted by j.m.

I could do that, but the cable lengh I need is around 2", and if I did not stagger the joints between the cables I would have such a large bulge in the cable that the metal shielding would be rendered useless. Plus replacing the cable entirely looks stock, and is exactly what Novak will do.

Btw, the $30 repair cost is just for replacing the cable and does not include shipping.

Jon

Novak don't replace the cable, they replace the timing sensor system, that includes the PCB that you will be soldering the cable to.

Mark, you are right, me bad, I attempted a repair, and replaced the cable at the point of connection, and it didn't fix it, only to assume the timing sensor was also faulty.

[j.m.]

That stinks... I just thought I would replace the whole cable because it didn't look to great where the cable went into the motor.

I doubt the sensor is bad, I litterally just opened the motor package two days ago. I didn't like having a lot of extra wire as my esc sits right next to the motor. I tried to shorten the cable at the connector end, but that didn't turn out too well. Those little clips are finicky.

My cable should be here by the end of the week.

Jon

[j.m.]

Well boys, I got my car running.

Been driving around for a few days just to make sure it's holding up, and the new sensor cable works great. Not to mention, replacing the cable allows you to get it to the perfect length.

Let me know if you really need reassembly steps.

Jon

[piercent]

Wondering if you saw Agilent's guide to prevent sensor damage. http://www.newark.com/images/en_US/m...nPractices.pdf Covers topics such as temperature, overvoltage, connector care, grounding, precautions and more. Also, here's the main sensors page which may be helpful.