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#21
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Anyone got a front roll bar kit they want to sell me?
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A rc car is not just for christmas, it's for life
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#22
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before you can cure grip roll you need to know how and why it happens.
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#23
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#24
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Quote:
Hence being here picking the brains of some of RC racings finest minds!!
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#25
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grip roll happens when the side of the front tire digs and causes the car to flip (sidebite) the only way to stop this is to remove side bite by laying shocks down on the tower out on the lower arm flatterning front top link softer spring thinner shock oil cutting spikes off tires front anti roll bars less steering lock more camber more caster we are tallking about making the car more progressive as you turn in to first part of the corner.
stu |
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#26
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Or just run 2wd staggered ribs up front, works for me but not saying it's right
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#27
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like i said sidebite. dibble your avantar still looks the nuts.
stu |
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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yep, can't bring myself to change it!
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#30
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I'd look at your tyres before messing about with the car setup to much, Silverstone is too bumpy to comprimise the setup too much to deal with grip roll. I've found that if you use yellow minispikes at Stotfold when they start to get too worn and go off they are then about ideal for Silverstone, even the stagger ribs on my 2wd have done a couple of runs at moto arena to take the edge off them.
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#31
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What would you suggest then mate specifically for Silverstone?
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#32
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Try slackening the front diff off slightly.
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Lee Perrott Team Associated B44.1 |
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#33
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Quote:
ok sidebite happens on intial turn in, when the shocks are stood up more ie further out on tower inner on the lower arm the car will react faster to steering input so as you turn the car will pitch on to the outside wheel much faster and more sudden and make the front reaction less progressive (sharper). softer spring and softer shock oil gives a simular effect to laying the shocks but doing it this way you will not compromise the direction change or the way the car rides the jumps and high frequency bumps as much you can usaly leave the shock locations the same. again the more angled or shorter the top link is the quicker the car will change direction though the roll centers so if you lengthen or level out the front top link again you will make the car more progressive on initial turn in again sidebite is generated fom the side wall or edge spikes of the tire if you use more camber as the car leans will use more of the top of the tire rather the edge spikes it will tend to give a smoother feel. using more camber the car will tend to have less forward traction as the tire is leaning over more to start with. caster is very simular to the effects of camber without as much compromise on forward traction with more caster when you turn the front tires are lent over more as if the car has more camber. caster and camber need to work in conjunction with each other ie less caster less camber more caster more camber. a lot of drivers think stiffing the front of the car up will stop grip roll this will make it worse yes it will make the car have less steering but it will also make the car react faster on inital turn in which is where grip roll is generated from. i agree with trimming tires to keep a ballance without compromise to bump handling, all the factors ive mentioned have pros and cons you will need to have a play and see what works for you. stu |
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#34
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Yellow minispikes are fine, it's just they need to be at least half worn out and with the outer row of spikes cut off front and rear, these will then work untill they are pretty much bald on a 4wd.
A set of tyres that have done 2 -3 meetings at Stotfold are about right. Oh yes the other thing worth trying is adding weight towards the rear of the car, this seems to slow the reactions of the car down which helps Last edited by Chalkie; 11-08-2011 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Added extra |
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#35
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I'm not experienced but I run on a super high grip track so grip roll on 4wd is an issue.
I didn't find it useful to run too stiff oil/springs as it could harm long sweeper and overall stability so I keep a relatively soft shocks but outside on wishbones, inside on tower. Then low ride height, as low as possible to still clear the jumps. Then a bit more camber overall, shorter rear link and it greatly reduce grip roll without compromising too much the rest. |
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#36
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In grip roll situation the first thing i'd try is a bit more Camber after trimming spikes... but never any more than 2 deg negative on buggys.
Rather than just snipping spikes of.... using a dremel to slick smooth off the area trimmed helps a lot too. something else worth trying is toe in on front wheels as this will reduce initial turn in and help stop the outside tyre digging in under sudden load ride height is critical to how the weight moves and induces roll in corners. I always start with front wishbones horiziontal and rear driveshafts horizontal under race weight conditions with 2WD cars. |
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#37
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Thanks for all the replies!
I think its very much going to be trial and error to see which suggestions work but at least I have plenty of food for thought now! Thanks for the info regarding Silverstone Chalkie, always good to get information specific to a track. When I get a set of tyres 'in the zone' for Silverstone I will take them off and keep them for Silverstone only.
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