Gear diffs for the B44.1?

[bigred5765]

Originally Posted by West Ridge Racing

A kyosho fs diff can be modified to fit in a Durango.

I hate balldiffs. Not in a performance like way but for the maintenance part.
People who say they run their diffs for months and still have a silky smooth diff are not telling the truth. Strictly impossible. they ware out rather quickly.
On flat dirt tracks with normal grip and normal jumps they lasts much longer and even indoors on high grip track because they often are flat and the jumps are evenly flat all over the surface.
What kills a ball diff the quickest are bumpy high grip track like astro tracks.
Our astro track does not have one meter of flat surface and the car is in the the air more or less all the time and it eats the diffs up after only one run.
Have build and rebuild diffs a thousand times and in different ways and with different diff grease and balls and what not. Still the same result.

I have discovered what I think is a gritty diff, others find perfectly good so my standards are maybe a bit high. I must be damaged after all the Tc I have been doing. Really really important in tc that the diff is right on the money.
More geardiffs for the masses and the technology to build them lighter and with less rotating mass exists. I do not race buggy any more cus of that fact and the Durango is not a option for me. Do not think the durango is the way it is because of the geardiffs only.

take a look at the highlighted bits above from you statement
thats why most people hate ball diffs, and thats exactly why most people don't understand them. are they really supposed to be silky smooth, well i say no there supposed to be a kinda of limited slip diff, so no there not supposed to be silky smooth there supposed to be tight and feel a little notchy, if there silky smooth they will diff out in the corner loosing drive,which is why people think oil filled geared diff are better because they don't diff out so easily, but feel one of them there far from silky smooth,build it right and yes they last months, o buy the way shy we run on astro 98% of the time are cougar diff is tight and slightly notchy and 3 months old still going strong,

[SHY]

Originally Posted by bigred5765

take a look at the highlighted bits above from you statement
thats why most people hate ball diffs, and thats exactly why most people don't understand them. are they really supposed to be silky smooth, well i say no there supposed to be a kinda of limited slip diff, so no there not supposed to be silky smooth there supposed to be tight and feel a little notchy, if there silky smooth they will diff out in the corner loosing drive,which is why people think oil filled geared diff are better because they don't diff out so easily, but feel one of them there far from silky smooth,build it right and yes they last months, o buy the way shy we run on astro 98% of the time are cougar diff is tight and slightly notchy and 3 months old still going strong,

I'm open to all possibilites

Just wanna test a gear diff for myself to find out first of all. Feel, laptime, average laptime. I'd like to try geared diffs in my B44. And I'm also waiting for the 410 Ultra kit. I'd vice versa like to try the Rango with ball diffs...

On astro I can agree that the diffs are not that critical, but on a loose track or on sections of the track without astro - the ball diff should be smooth.

Last time I rebuilt my B44 ball diffs they looked like this...



It was so crappy, and I had to tight it so much you could hardly move it... Was still fast as hell (podium finish) I might as well have driven with a solid axle

Another thing: What deteriorates the ball diff is mainly the diff plates. I notice no improvement with ceramic balls. But I'd love to see a better material used for those diff plates! (B-Fast machined plates are the best option so far). Ceramic plates???

[West Ridge Racing]

I have been told before that I am too fixed on the diffs and I know that is somewhat true But I am like that. I kill that bird who took a dump on my 1:1 car. Like it spotless
It all began with me racing a xray t3 with balldiffs and I was impressed with the smoothness and the durability of it. I my world that balldiff was ace comming from racing buggies. A certain high ranked racer feelt it and shook his head. He rebuild it for me and the difference in the cars performance was stunning. So that transformed over to the buggies for me but I know it does not make that much of a difference there.

[West Ridge Racing]

Ceramic plates and balls together is not a good idea because that would require a much much harder tension spring. It would slip all the time otherwise. And with that extra tension on the screw and nut would not be healthy on any part of the diff

[SHY]

Originally Posted by West Ridge Racing

Ceramic plates and balls together is not a good idea because that would require a much much harder tension spring. It would slip all the time otherwise. And with that extra tension on the screw and nut would not be healthy on any part of the diff

Nono, I was thinking ceramic plates only. The balls don't wear. And I find it harder to adjust the diff properly with ceramic balls. They are harder/more slippery/smooth, so the sweet spot I find is narrower. I.e. not longer lasting diffs and harder to adjust... might be the same problem for ceramic rings of course... I'd just like to have some "rough" but less wearing material for the plates. What grade steel is being used for the plates? (I guess the manufacturers have thoroughly tested this though...)

I used to replace the balls for every rebuild, but learing from you UK drivers it's not point! The are just fine! Only need to sand down the plates and clean everything...

[West Ridge Racing]

Ok, my mistake

Thats how I have been doing it also lately. Ceramic high quality balls and sanded/flattened plates. A friend of mine drilled small not all the way through "potts" on each side underneath the ballholes. 4 or 5 of them on each side an they could hold even more diff lube. Seems to be working for him.

[SLEENAD]

How about trying this set from casterracing?

http://casterracingusa.com/product.p...&cat=63&page=7

[fastinfastout]

that is not a gear diff

[SLEENAD]

I know, but I heard the other day that the many rebuilds are mostly necessary because of the plastic 45° headgears (don't know the exact english) wearing too fast.

So for people wanting diffs that are stronger, this might be an idea without having to step away from balldiffs.

[SLEENAD]

Anyone tried to fit the mgt 3.0 geardiff in their b44?

[Fatal1ty]

Originally Posted by bigred5765

thats why most people hate ball diffs, and thats exactly why most people don't understand them. are they really supposed to be silky smooth, well i say no there supposed to be a kinda of limited slip diff, so no there not supposed to be silky smooth there supposed to be tight and feel a little notchy, if there silky smooth they will diff out in the corner loosing drive,which is why people think oil filled geared diff are better because they don't diff out so easily, but feel one of them there far from silky smooth,build it right and yes they last months, o buy the way shy we run on astro 98% of the time are cougar diff is tight and slightly notchy and 3 months old still going strong,

totally true! touringcar and buggy diffaction isnt the same, and thats the reason why a buggydiff can be not so smooth like a$$ and it still works perfectly. Important is, no slipping diff + good slipper settings + good build (and then you dont have to tighten the diff all the way until it doesnt slip). In some cars its harder to get a diff free and not slipping, because the material matches not perfectly together (hardness of balls, rings,... )

Just my 2 cents..

[janus_77]

Most B44 drivers here use the NTC3 diff (ASC2333), it has a frictiondisk to take the strain of the diffplates and balls

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2333/