TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[Spencer Mulcahy]

I have to agree with you about the shocks. I went to the Batley regional with my car setup with drilled six holes shocks the car was terrible so changed to four hole which transformed it. This was done before seeing your setup. The shocks feel to soft with no damping on six holes.

[ianhaye]

Originally Posted by steveproracing

Build the car exactly as you would for three degrees antisquat. Then in the hrc shim kit there is a really thin shim (a little under a mm thick). Add this shim under the shim for 3deg squat. So instead of having 1 shim under the front block you now have 2 shims. Thus raising the front block to beyond 3degrees
To approx 4 degrees

The insert inside the block is still the hrc 3 deg block
But this insert has no effect on the antisquat it just keeps the gearbox level. Therefore it can cope with being a tiny bit off level from the extra shim.

4degrees of antisquat give much more forward drive.
I was really impressed how much extra it gave me.
That combined with short wheelbase and the hrc 4.5 block helped give me a really locked in rear end. Much more than putting the rear weight kit on. All that did was make the rear of the car into a pendulum.

Hope this helps

thanks for the help, my wheelbase is still as kit setup from build so i also need to shorten this right?

[Neil78]

Have ran my car for a few meeetings mid motor and have now converted over to rear motor.Would like to know if anyone has found a good setup for grass/astro track.

[steveproracing]

yes ian i have found short wheelbase works best everywhere so far! but i havent done any high grip work yet!!

[ianhaye]

ideal thanks racing tonight and hrc block n shims should be turning up today so be able to give setup a run tonight :-)

[PaulUpton]

Originally Posted by steveproracing

yes ian i have found short wheelbase works best everywhere so far! but i havent done any high grip work yet!!

Interesting I've gone long wheelbase and prefer it to short

[Razer]

Hi guys!

Building my 2nd 22 now, as a midmotor. I have a gearbox leftover from the rearmotor build, and a new one, but both seem to be warped in some way... The motor won't line up straight, and the axle stands at an angle compared to the spur. Anyone else experienced this?

Really fucked up problem, I nearly lost my temper after building the second box...

[ashleyb4]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

I have to agree with you about the shocks. I went to the Batley regional with my car setup with drilled six holes shocks the car was terrible so changed to four hole which transformed it. This was done before seeing your setup. The shocks feel to soft with no damping on six holes.

Im the other way spencer i ran mine with 4 hole pistons, the car felt solid as a rock so changed to 6 hole and transformed the car for the better!


Ash

[bugbtz]

Which shocks setup are you using with a rear motor and a high grip surface like carpet?

[runar80]

Hi!

I need a mid motor setup for a big outdoor clay track that will become pretty rough. Any tips?

[spindles69]

Ran the 22 on grass/hardpacked soil
Hrc block fitted
76gram under lipo weight
50 gram rear weight with an additional 25 grams added
Front 54 piston 35 weight oil
Rear 56 piston 27.5 weight oil
Front red springs
Rear yellow springs
Front staggered cut rib yellow compound
Rear dboots megabites
Run full lipo with the electrics all on an ally plate above lipo
Run a 8.5 ballistic on a 22 tooth pinion
Superb very pleased with it now

[J.Kirkman]

Originally Posted by Razer

Hi guys!

Building my 2nd 22 now, as a midmotor. I have a gearbox leftover from the rearmotor build, and a new one, but both seem to be warped in some way... The motor won't line up straight, and the axle stands at an angle compared to the spur. Anyone else experienced this?

Really fucked up problem, I nearly lost my temper after building the second box...

Yeah mine is like this and I'm trying to shim the aluminium plate slightly where it's bolted to the gearbox casing. The motor sits at an angle and is not right. Not impressed

[frogger]

Originally Posted by Razer

Hi guys!
[gearbox halves] both seem to be warped in some way... The motor won't line up straight, and the axle stands at an angle compared to the spur.

Surely that is a manufacturing problem and Horizon will replace it for you free?

[Tom Hatton]

Originally Posted by spud31

heres a link

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...ow20101212.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...ow20101212.pdf

Hi,

Can anyone help!!! I've tried to open the links posted for the taplow setup but it just shows blank setup sheets! Is anyone else having this problem??

Cheers
Tom.

[Dudders]

Works fine for me. Did you let it fully load?.

It loads the main page then the settings

[Bob_Zahn]

Ran my car again last night and managed to knock a couple tenths of a second per lap during practise before the quals.

Last week the car was running in the 12.1 to 12.5 range. Last night I ran some back to back 12.0's and then near the end of my run it happened. I turned a 11.9 and then an 11.8. This was with little to no traffic on the track so I could really get into a groove. Once the quals started I lost the mojo and was back to 12.3 or 12.4 second laps. Then in the main I gained back some lost ground and got it back to 12.1

I was adjusting the boost on my Tekin RS all night to find a happy medium. 45 degrees boost worked good in practise but was a handful in the quals. I ended up running 25 degrees boost on 13.5 turn and it felt fast but controllable on our smallish 72x45 carpet track.

Here is the setup that I ran:

Front:
56 x 6 piston, 27.5 wt oil, green spring, 3mm spacer, bladders cut
middle arm, middle tower
1-A link (2mm on bulkhead, no limiters on block)
1mm bumpsteer
no toe in/out
-1.5 camber
22 mm ride height
spindle washers flippped (1.5 top, 0.5 bottom)
25 degree kick up, 5 degree castor

Rear:
55 x 6 piston, 32.5 wt oil, pink spring, 0 limiters, bladders cut
inside arm, middle tower
2-C link (2mm bulkhead, 1mm on hub)
hubs moved 1mm forward
3.5 toe, HRC block, 2.5 degree antisquat
22.5 mm ride height
-1 camber

Minipin rears, stagger rib fronts
Tekin RS w/ Duo 2 13.5
Xcelorin 3800mah 96mm lipo
Savox 1258

21 grams on rear gearbox. No weight under battery.

I notice with the bladders cut and running emulsion shocks the car takes a few laps before it feels its groove. My lap times generally go down 4 or 5 tenths after I have at least 4 or 5 laps on the track during practise. I try to pump the shocks by hand before I put the car down for the quals but having the shocks work in on the track seems the best.

Who is running bladders still vs. running emulsion style?

[cr1tch]

hi

i need some help working out how a hrc block works?

ive just bought a 4 degree hrc block and shim kit and want to replace it with the kit standard one?

Wot would this acheive and what are the effects ect... also got the hrc shim kit and would like to know what the best shim number would be? and best set up for southport would be?

Current set up
Green front spring
35 wt oil
middle tower and wish bone.
2mm spacer on hub (turnbuckle)

rear Yellow springs
27.5 wt oil
middle tower and wish bone

8.5 t


cheers
Daniel

[PaulUpton]

Ran at the RCArena tonight, will post my setup over the weekend, but the car was awesome....

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

Who is running bladders still vs. running emulsion style?

I'm testing with emulsion today along with some other things I want to play with - will let you know how it goes.

Ran emulsion in the rear only at the last meeting - TBH I couldn't feel much difference - made the change part way through the day and did go faster in the end but can't for sure say it was purely cutting the bladders that gave me the extra pace. Maybe a slight improvement but not conclusive - hence the testing today.

I actually think that I found more pace when I stopped driving it like Miss Daisy and actually started to race it. For sure, I prefer to be smooth and I don't think it likes being mashed hard with the throttle but when I actually started driving it with more commitment into the corners and stopped being scared of making a mistake, I found that it actually gripped harder and for longer than I thought it would and so I went faster overall. It also seemed to land the jumps better when I had more commitment into and over them. Like I say - not maybe purely down to the bladders but that was the major thing I changed during the day.
HTH

[JACKOR33]

Decided to try another setup last night for racing at caldicot which is a mix of very slippy polished, carpet and hardboard sections with bumps, jumps etc
The car has been workign for me but just felt it could give more and be less snappy out of the bends and i didnt find that the taplow indoor setups didnt work very well on the slippy stuff at all!(maybe just my thumbs or driving style mind lol)
After some thought decided to try steveproracing's slippy outdoor setup for batley and pleased with the results

Link to setup :
http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1303222844

Things i changed which all resulted in improved drivability and lap times :
- Stagger ribs up front
- 5 deg castor blocks
- upped ballast to 102g under lipos

I was sceptical that 4 holes would work as they just feel dead compared to the 6 holes which felt soo nice when built but they seem to work well with the rest of this setup