TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[frogger]

Serpent has a great booklet that describes a lot of what setup changes does. It's obviously for a different car but the descriptions hold true. Go to section B, advanced setup.

http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=4719

[Kit Jones]

Originally Posted by jondell

Kit, which sections of the track did you think the 4 hole was not so good? Far side middle loop? My car felt fine over bumps, but then I would not be going quite so fast.

Sorry, by first I meant the week before when I really struggled over the bumps with too much damping.

When my damping wasn't quite right yesterday the area I found to be the biggest problem was the end of the straight which would make it difficult to line up the table top. If I lifted slightly more it wasn't a problem but theres no fun in that! I think it may also be partly down to the line I was taking round the corner so there may have been a better way.

[jampat2004]

Originally Posted by pugboy

That's great thanks, I'll get the rack out and have a look. What spacers are you running on servo as mine hits the servo just before reaching full right lock. Could possibly unwind the servo link one or two turns and see if I can make it work that way.

Ditto previous comment, thanks everyone for all your comments and advice. Looks like losi forum is back buzzing again, long may it continue

ive fitted a 2mm spacer and a 0.5 mm spacer to the 1251 and with the altering of the underside of the bulkhead all seems good with no catching.

[evolution]

Nice to see you kit arrived ok frogger. The spares are in now too Do you think they'll let us run them round Ardent on Sunday during the break. Really liking the car and it responds well to all the little tweaks.
Loving the set up tips on here,makes things a lot quicker and easier to get the car going fast

[Aran]

to avoid getting a dremel out ive added a washer behind the ball on the servo horn and im not running any spacers, I have a savox 1258 tg had enough of running a 1251 without a servo saver.

also i added a small washer between the steering link (part that attaches the servo to the steering rack) this was because when it was assembles it was a little too short so this just helped that.

just need to fit my electrics in now :| lol

[frogger]

Originally Posted by evolution

Nice to see you kit arrived ok frogger. The spares are in now too Do you think they'll let us run them round Ardent on Sunday during the break.

Let me know how you get on with those carbon bits I sent you. I'm at Ardent on Saturday and will be doing some laps with mine then. Might be able to have a sneaky run during lunchtime on Sunday. Sure they won't notice.

[reg]

has anyone noticed that,when you do up the front skid plate,that is what is holding the arms from dropping,you need to do it right up as the screws go into locking nuts,the screws could do with being longer so you dont have to do them up so tight,or turn the nut upside down,

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by reg

has anyone noticed that,when you do up the front skid plate,that is what is holding the arms from dropping,you need to do it right up as the screws go into locking nuts,the screws could do with being longer so you dont have to do them up so tight,or turn the nut upside down,

I did notice that the screws weren't quite long enough to reach the locking part of the nut, this may be affected by which kick spacer is used.

Have you fitted the shocks yet? The down travel of the wishbones is limited by the shocks so the wishbones shouldn't touch the skid plate, at least with the stock 2mm shock limiters and probably even without.

[NTS]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Here is some build and setup info for the TLR22.

...

Gnarly Old Dog,

On the setup sheet you posted at the start of this thread the camber link positions are "1 + 1mm Spacer" for the front and "2 + 1mm Spacer" for the rear. Would I be right in reading this as using the inner inboard camber link position at the front, numbered 1 on the set up sheet and the outer inboard camber link position at the rear with the corresponding spacers under the ball stud? This seems fairly obvious but I was slightly thrown by the manual that shows the build using the outer positions for both front and rear inboard camber link ball studs but then states "#1 with 2mm spacers and 0mm spacers on caster block" for the front on the Kit setup sheet where "#1" would be the inner position?

Hope you can clarify this.

Cheers, Nick

[Ben Turner]

Originally Posted by frogger

Might be able to have a sneaky run during lunchtime on Sunday. Sure they won't notice.

Im game for that

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by NTS

Gnarly Old Dog,

On the setup sheet you posted at the start of this thread the camber link positions are "1 + 1mm Spacer" for the front and "2 + 1mm Spacer" for the rear. Would I be right in reading this as using the inner inboard camber link position at the front, numbered 1 on the set up sheet and the outer inboard camber link position at the rear with the corresponding spacers under the ball stud? This seems fairly obvious but I was slightly thrown by the manual that shows the build using the outer positions for both front and rear inboard camber link ball studs but then states "#1 with 2mm spacers and 0mm spacers on caster block" for the front on the Kit setup sheet where "#1" would be the inner position?

Hope you can clarify this.

Cheers, Nick

On my set up sheet, position 1 relates to the inner link position on the bulkhead (ie the longer link) and position 2, the outer.

Not sure about the instruction manual but TBH, we never had a manual when we built the initial cars and I didn't really pay it too much attention when building the production car at the weekend (sorry). Please bear in mind that the manual has to cover a variety of situations and the purpose of me starting this thread was to help support the UK/Euro-centric racers that would be looking for a starting point for the car for typical UK type tracks.
From the looks of it, the manual set up predominantly reflects the US style of setup for their tracks with the rear-motor car.

Hope I've clarified it for you?

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

On my set up sheet, position 1 relates to the inner link position on the bulkhead (ie the longer link) and position 2, the outer.

What's the ball stud position/washers on the rear hub on your setup, I don't think it's on the sheet? Thanks.

[NTS]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

On my set up sheet, position 1 relates to the inner link position on the bulkhead (ie the longer link) and position 2, the outer.

Not sure about the instruction manual but TBH, we never had a manual when we built the initial cars and I didn't really pay it too much attention when building the production car at the weekend (sorry). Please bear in mind that the manual has to cover a variety of situations and the purpose of me starting this thread was to help support the UK/Euro-centric racers that would be looking for a starting point for the car for typical UK type tracks.
From the looks of it, the manual set up predominantly reflects the US style of setup for their tracks with the rear-motor car.

Hope I've clarified it for you?

Gnarly Old Dog,

Spot on thank you, as I expected but just wanted to be sure I was understanding it correctly. Inner position front, long link. Outer position rear, short link.

Cheers, Nick

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by ianjoyner

What's the ball stud position/washers on the rear hub on your setup, I don't think it's on the sheet? Thanks.

My bad.
I'd start with C + 3mm or C/B with 3mm depending on how much rotation you're after. IMO C will give you more rotation than C/B

HTH

[ianjoyner]

Thanks, so quite a big change to the links from the manual, your head start on UK setups is appreciated .

[mrspeedy]

Has anyone tried the kit setup but with the shocks mounted in the outer hole in the wishbone ? it feels pretty good on the bench ...

[RDG 40]

what motors aremost people running? 6.5t or 7.5t, im thinking more for outside this summer. Tempted to go 6.5t with the losi and a 7.5t in the b4 for wet? Or do you go 7.5t in losi 8.5t in b4 for wet?

[reg]

Its more that fast enought with a 7.5 speed passion on a 20 pinion

[ianhaye]

what would be a starting point with shock oil on a grass track with smallish jumps, cheers

[Gnarly Old Dog]

4 hole 55 pistons in the front with the kit oil and 6 hole 55's in the rear with the kit oil.
Go for Green front springs and white rears
TBH - we found that springing combination worked well almost everywhere - yes it can be tuned further but as a starting basis, it'll do for most eventualities.