TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[jampat2004]

Originally Posted by Timee80

its the 25t horn mate. Mine was stiff on too. I had to shave the rear of the ball cup that attaches to the horn to get full lock both ways. Do this first!

thanks for replys guys.

[telboy]

Originally Posted by RDG 40

pesonally in the pic above im gona mount my receiver the same but remove the one leg of battery support to allow for extra room as in saddle formation the legs do not have a use

Russ

Just take the battery support out all together, and but the speedo up to the cells. this will stop them from moving...not that they do anyway.

[Chris56]

What pinion gear would you recommend as a starting point for a 6.5? Track is large open carpet, mostly small jumps.

[Kit Jones]

Simon and I ran our 22s at Stotfold today and finished 2nd (Simon) and 4th. I have had limited running time but my setup is attached for anyone wanting a starting setup.

The car was very good in the end and was well balanced, it just requires some more damper tuning and could do with a bit more grip all round.

I know my hand writing is bad so let me know if you have any questions.

[telboy]

Around a 19t. I ran an 18t at ardent today, and it never reached top speed....these things are rapid!

[Bob_Zahn]

Originally Posted by Kit Jones

Simon and I ran our 22s at Stotfold today and finished 2nd (Simon) and 4th. I have had limited running time but my setup is attached for anyone wanting a starting setup.

The car was very good in the end and was well balanced, it just requires some more damper tuning and could do with a bit more grip all round.

I know my hand writing is bad so let me know if you have any questions.

Good idea with cutting the coils on the front springs to stiffen them. Why did you start with 6 hole pistons instead of using the stock 4 hole pistons?

[pugboy]

Two minor issues still to resolve, both steering related..

I found there was some resistance between the two parts of the steering rack mouldings over part of the travel... Did anyone else find this? It's a bit difficult to know where/if to try and dremel it cause it's hard to tell where it is binding. I didn't notice any burrs.

The other one is the one Jimmy and others mentioned, with the ballcup fouling on the front of the servo near full right lock. Running Savox LP servo with 2.5mm spacers. I have done a little dremelling to the underside of the top brace to deal with the other ball joint but now the only coice seems to be find a small ballcup or dremel the existing ballcup or the servo.

There are lots of things to like and marvel at on this car but the steering could do with a little more flexibility in the design, the tolerances are just too tight/non existent.

[The Pookster]

I have found the Savox needs 0.5mm spacers at the most otherwise it fouls

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by The Pookster

I have found the Savox needs 0.5mm spacers at the most otherwise it fouls

Cheers, I'll give that a go before I start dremelling any further!

[Razer]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Like I said to Razer, the theory behind it all sometimes goes beyond me - all I know is that it felt nicer to drive and was more consistent. You may be able to achieve a similar roll stiffness by altering the washers on the outer and inner ball studs but I don't know (sorry)

A higher roll center could be compared to adding a antiroll bar, but without upsetting the car in the bumps. On a bumpy track with high grip, were you need a rollbar in the corners, but that makes you mess up in the bumpy sections, you could go for a higher rollcenter, and add a softer spring.

A higher roll center does take away some chassis roll, but it does not use the bar to keep the car flat by lifting the inside wheel, and it could cause traction rolling.

It is something that can make a big difference, and it's definitely worth testing it more!

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by pugboy

Cheers, I'll give that a go before I start dremelling any further!

I am using 3mm spacers with the savox lol. I would rather dremel and have all the servo links straight

[Reevsey]

Based on now having had a look at a manual v the car i have been driving for a couple of months i would imagine some of you will have a car that feels a little light on the rear end for traction and has alot of front end traction.

Below are some key changes i would make from the set up in the manual which is aimed at an outboard car and will probably be giving you some issues with your inboard set up

• Most peoples car i saw yesterday had the 20deg kick up plate fitted as per the kit, this gives alot of steering so i would suggest you all start with the 25 deg kick up!! makes the car more forgiving
• Front camber link on the tower has a 2mm spacer, remove this and start without any washers, the 2mm makes the car hold onto the corner for to long, if you don't have enough steering then add small washers to build the height back up - This is a very big change for this car and it reacts to very small changes
• Rear hub carriers has 1 washer under the ball stub on the hub, i would run 2 to 3 to generate more rear traction
• Rear high roll centre is much better for us!
• Rear link on tower has a 2mm spacer fitted, only remove this to generate chassis roll in low grip conditions, again a very sensitive adjustment on this car
• I am using 6 hole pistons as that is what i started with back in November yet to try the 4 hole pistons

Hope that helps

Si

[OldTimer]

Any idea on oil and 6 hole pistons for somewhere like Coventry astro as 6 hole blue pistons with 32.5wt and yellow springs feels really soft at the back lol.

[Reevsey]

Originally Posted by OldTimer

Any idea on oil and 6 hole pistons for somewhere like Coventry astro as 6 hole blue pistons with 32.5wt and yellow springs feels really soft at the back lol.

I would run your car as a starting point similar to the below which is how i finished yesterday

Front
Shocks 30w/6x56 piston/Green spring
Shock position - middle bone No2 tower

Rear
Shocks 25w/3x54 3x55 piston/White spring
Rear Shock length extended by unscrewing the shock end one and 1/2 turns for extra droop
Shock position - inside bone No2 tower

Hope that helps

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by Reevsey

I would run your car as a starting point similar to the below which is how i finished yesterday

Front
Shocks 30w/6x56 piston/Green spring
Shock position - middle bone No2 tower

Rear
Shocks 25w/3x54 3x55 piston/White spring
Rear Shock length extended by unscrewing the shock end one and 1/2 turns for extra droop
Shock position - inside bone No2 tower

Hope that helps

Bugger need to order white rear springs lol, thanks for the info simon will give it a try.

[Reevsey]

Originally Posted by OldTimer

Bugger need to order white rear springs lol, thanks for the info simon will give it a try.

You might be ok with Yellow as i ran out of time to test a harder rear spring but it is something i want to try

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by Reevsey

Based on now having had a look at a manual v the car i have been driving for a couple of months i would imagine some of you will have a car that feels a little light on the rear end for traction and has alot of front end traction.

Below are some key changes i would make from the set up in the manual which is aimed at an outboard car and will probably be giving you some issues with your inboard set up

• Most peoples car i saw yesterday had the 20deg kick up plate fitted as per the kit, this gives alot of steering so i would suggest you all start with the 25 deg kick up!! makes the car more forgiving
• Front camber link on the tower has a 2mm spacer, remove this and start without any washers, the 2mm makes the car hold onto the corner for to long, if you don't have enough steering then add small washers to build the height back up - This is a very big change for this car and it reacts to very small changes
• Rear hub carriers has 1 washer under the ball stub on the hub, i would run 2 to 3 to generate more rear traction
• Rear high roll centre is much better for us!
• Rear link on tower has a 2mm spacer fitted, only remove this to generate chassis roll in low grip conditions, again a very sensitive adjustment on this car
• I am using 6 hole pistons as that is what i started with back in November yet to try the 4 hole pistons

Hope that helps

Si

Thanks for the tips Si, on the rear ball studs, just wondering why add washers to the outside rather than take away the 2mm from the inside? Isn't that a similar effect?

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by Reevsey

Based on now having had a look at a manual v the car i have been driving for a couple of months i would imagine some of you will have a car that feels a little light on the rear end for traction and has alot of front end traction.

Below are some key changes i would make from the set up in the manual which is aimed at an outboard car and will probably be giving you some issues with your inboard set up

• Most peoples car i saw yesterday had the 20deg kick up plate fitted as per the kit, this gives alot of steering so i would suggest you all start with the 25 deg kick up!! makes the car more forgiving
• Front camber link on the tower has a 2mm spacer, remove this and start without any washers, the 2mm makes the car hold onto the corner for to long, if you don't have enough steering then add small washers to build the height back up - This is a very big change for this car and it reacts to very small changes
• Rear hub carriers has 1 washer under the ball stub on the hub, i would run 2 to 3 to generate more rear traction
• Rear high roll centre is much better for us!
• Rear link on tower has a 2mm spacer fitted, only remove this to generate chassis roll in low grip conditions, again a very sensitive adjustment on this car
• I am using 6 hole pistons as that is what i started with back in November yet to try the 4 hole pistons

Hope that helps

Si

Cheers for the advice, I must admit I thought it a bit odd that is was same suggested start set up for rear and mid, I'll try it as you have suggested with the increased kick up and different camber link spacers. I'll maybe try leaving the 4 hole 55 pistons but with a firmer front spring as a starting point and see how it goes.

Old Timer...As for 3mm spacers with the Savox.... how have you managed that, got a close up pic?

Cheers

[reg]

Originally Posted by Reevsey

Based on now having had a look at a manual v the car i have been driving for a couple of months i would imagine some of you will have a car that feels a little light on the rear end for traction and has alot of front end traction.

Below are some key changes i would make from the set up in the manual which is aimed at an outboard car and will probably be giving you some issues with your inboard set up

• Most peoples car i saw yesterday had the 20deg kick up plate fitted as per the kit, this gives alot of steering so i would suggest you all start with the 25 deg kick up!! makes the car more forgiving
• Front camber link on the tower has a 2mm spacer, remove this and start without any washers, the 2mm makes the car hold onto the corner for to long, if you don't have enough steering then add small washers to build the height back up - This is a very big change for this car and it reacts to very small changes
• Rear hub carriers has 1 washer under the ball stub on the hub, i would run 2 to 3 to generate more rear traction
• Rear high roll centre is much better for us!
• Rear link on tower has a 2mm spacer fitted, only remove this to generate chassis roll in low grip conditions, again a very sensitive adjustment on this car
• I am using 6 hole pistons as that is what i started with back in November yet to try the 4 hole pistons

Hope that helps

Si

some very helpfull info,does more kick up give more or less steering?i thought putting back the 2mm washer on the tower if you dont have enough with out them would give you less steering,wouldnt having a longer camberlink and a 2mm washer on the caster block give you more,
the only reason i say this is because i had a cougar,adding washers took away alot of the steering,i just thought i was getting the hang of this set up lark

[Thargor]

dam it looks tight in there... i want one of these, gonna have to buy some microscopic radiogear....